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Engine sputtering over 2500 rpm while towing a tuber.


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Thanks guys, dumb question, as I am not a mechanic, is there anything special to remove the distributer cap. Does anything need to be disconnected etc.? Do I take the wires off first or just lift the cap?

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38 minutes ago, Lancecape said:

Thanks guys, dumb question, as I am not a mechanic, is there anything special to remove the distributer cap. Does anything need to be disconnected etc.? Do I take the wires off first or just lift the cap?

Nope, nothing special. Just take those two small screws out and rotate the cap forward with the wires connected. If you're going to replace it, either take a photo of how the wires are plugged in, or move them one at a time to the new cap.

At this point, I think, you're trying to just look. Pay attention to what color the pieces of metal inside the cap are. Gold colored are the marine version, and silver is the automotive type. If corroded or silver, you should buy a marine version and replace. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

 I presume if this needs to be replaced that there is a marine version and an auto version? It is a GM part.

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29 minutes ago, Lancecape said:

 I presume if this needs to be replaced that there is a marine version and an auto version? It is a GM part.

"This" = Distributor Module?

"This" = Distributor Cap?

"This" = Rotor?

Let's assume distributor module.  An automotive one is fine.

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Sorry, I was referring to the ignition control module. Any idea on part number or where to find it. I tried the white number on top with no luck

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6 minutes ago, Lancecape said:

Sorry, I was referring to the ignition control module. Any idea on part number or where to find it. I tried the white number on top with no luck

Try NAPA TP25

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On 6/2/2022 at 9:04 AM, justgary said:

While you have the distributor cap off, also look at the ignition control module on the plate under the cap.  If the white painted dot is not white any more (e.g. yellow or brown), the module has probably overheated and could be causing your issue.

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Make sure the "pickup coil" is plugged into the back of the ignition control module or even better unplug and plug back into checking for corrosion. If you take off the two rusty screws holding the ignition control module you will have better access to the white looking plug that is hidden under the round rusty looking thing. 

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2 hours ago, Smooth said:

Make sure the "pickup coil" is plugged into the back of the ignition control module or even better unplug and plug back into checking for corrosion. If you take off the two rusty screws holding the ignition control module you will have better access to the white looking plug that is hidden under the round rusty looking thing. 

When removing the ICM, clean the surfaces and re apply the heat paste? 
what is the paste, I know it comes in the box with the new ICM.

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14 minutes ago, Bozboat said:

When removing the ICM, clean the surfaces and re apply the heat paste? 
what is the paste, I know it comes in the box with the new ICM.

The pasts helps transfer heat from the module to the mounting surface.

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2 minutes ago, Bozboat said:

Yes, but what is the name of the paste?

 

OH!  Haha!  I misread what you were getting at.  I dont know the exact brand, but any thermal paste should do the trick.

Edited by Texan32
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5 hours ago, Texan32 said:

OH!  Haha!  I misread what you were getting at.  I dont know the exact brand, but any thermal paste should do the trick.

Ok, thermal paste, that makes sense.  Thanks.I did not know if it was that or something like a dielectric paste (which I assume may be more for electric connections)

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48 minutes ago, Bozboat said:

Ok, thermal paste, that makes sense.  Thanks.I did not know if it was that or something like a dielectric paste (which I assume may be more for electric connections)

They are actually complete opposites.  Thermal paste is electrically conductive, where dielectric is not.  While they are both thermally conductive, the thermal paste is far superior at transferring the head. 

Edited by Texan32
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  • 3 weeks later...

I am happy to say that after replacing the ICM with the recommended NAPA part, this past weekend we utilized the boat for 4 days doing all kinds of activities including towing tubers without issue. Crossing my fingers that this did the trick. Thanks to all provided input.

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