How Much Should it Cost to Have Dealer Replace Prop?

[Slayer]

Sorry to hear about this, @Malibumichigan23.  You definitely got taken to the cleaners.  I have a weekend saver for both of my boats since the prop puller for one doesn't work on the other.  It's a good investment and keeps you on the water for a few minutes of your time and much less money.  As stated, you can get a prop reconditioned for less than $200.  It's a good idea to always have a spare such that you can make a quick swap if need be while one is getting repaired, etc.    

[Michigan boarder]

I have the weekend saver too.

@Malibumichigan23 did you double check, was it more than the prop that was worked on?  Often a prop strike results in a bent shaft, and sometimes a bent strut.  Given the time frame to replace, I doubt they did the strut but you may have had a bent prop shaft that they replaced too.

[Malibumichigan23]

8 hours ago, BarliBear said:

Ya, that dealer gave you an FU price. 

 

Buy this..

https://www.wakemakers.com/acme-c-clamp-prop-puller.html?530=51852&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2ungpL_58AIVht7ICh3PGQ6qEAQYASABEgJXiPD_BwE

 

A couple of these..

https://www.wakemakers.com/propeller-cotter-pin.html

 

Spend the 15 minutes and do it yourself. It’s super easy, barely an inconvenience. 

Thank you. 

[CaptainMorgan]

I was about to be brave and swap my prop all by myself like a grown up (new prop and acme puller in hand)...but in spirit of having everything on hand before I do, anyone know what the hard blue plastic ring is in this pic?  Should I be careful not to break so I can reuse? Should I get a replacement? Do I need to deal with it prior to working the nut? Or just ignore and proceed 

[blk93jeepzj]

13 minutes ago, CaptainMorgan said:

I was about to be brave and swap my prop all by myself like a grown up (new prop and acme puller in hand)...but in spirit of having everything on hand before I do, anyone know what the hard blue plastic ring is in this pic?  Should I be careful not to break so I can reuse? Should I get a replacement? Do I need to deal with it prior to working the nut? Or just ignore and proceed 

That should just be the nylon from the nylock locking nut.  I wouldn't heat it but remove as normal and can reuse it when you replace the prop.

[BillyChinookVLX]

I agree that it is nylon sticking out from the nylock nut… I would spend a few dollars and replace the nut though. It’s such a cheap component to know it’s going to do its job. (Lots cheaper than a lost prop) I have had plenty of nylocks fail to stay in place after being on and off just a couple times.

[oldjeep]

53 minutes ago, BillyChinookVLX said:

I agree that it is nylon sticking out from the nylock nut… I would spend a few dollars and replace the nut though. It’s such a cheap component to know it’s going to do its job. (Lots cheaper than a lost prop) I have had plenty of nylocks fail to stay in place after being on and off just a couple times.

That is what that cotter pin is for   I sure wouldn't replace a nylock unless you are able to turn it with your fingers.

Edited February 15, 2023 by oldjeep

[Hemmy]

9 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

That is what that cotter pin is for   I sure wouldn't replace a nylock unless you are able to turn it with your fingers.

Somewhere I read that it is recommended to replace the nut every so many off and ons.  Don't recall the exact number and where I saw it, but I know it was recommended.  All in all, it is cheap.   

[oldjeep]

2 minutes ago, Hemmy said:

Somewhere I read that it is recommended to replace the nut every so many off and ons.  Don't recall the exact number and where I saw it, but I know it was recommended.  All in all, it is cheap.   

Makes sense.  I remove a prop maybe every 2 years, so its gonna last a long time.

[CaptainMorgan]

thanks guys. successfully changed it yesterday, irrationally satisfying to do it myself and capitalized on a random 60F day in February.

follow up question:  when rotating the shaft slightly to position blocks etc, i noticed a squeak coming from the strut right behind the prop - slightly louder in one direction than the other. never turned the shaft before from underneath so no idea if this is new or not.  Not hard to turn, and its been sitting dry for 4 months in the cold...but is this normal?  didn't try spraying with a hose, but once in the water does it lubricate? should i spray with oil?  is this an indication of a bearing issue? 

[oldjeep]

Squeaking is normal if it is dry.  That says that the bushing is still snug.

[justgary]

1 hour ago, oldjeep said:

Squeaking is normal if it is dry.  That says that the bushing is still snug.

...or the strut is bent.

@CaptainMorgan, it might be a good idea to visually inspect the bushing to make sure that it still looks circular and the gap isn't too big at any point around the shaft.  Check the bushing at the front of the strut also.  Then back up a bit and sight down the shaft to make sure it and the strut don't look bent.

[TallRedRider]

Squeaking is normal, but should be fairly consistent throughout the rotation.  Also the resistance should be fairly consistent throughout the rotation.  If it moves from 3-9 O'clock easy then binds from 9 to 3, that suggests you have a small bend in the shaft.  (Just using those numbers for illustration).