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Impeller brand preferred for PCM/Crusader 409?


formerathlete

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formerathlete

Before this upcoming season, I plan to swap out our 2-season old impeller for a new one in our Crusader 409. I've had a Pleasurecraft impeller sitting in the boat as a spare since last summer but recently decided to buy a Staycool impeller from Amazon to see the difference and decide which one to install and which will be the spare. Looking at the two brands side by side, the Staycool impeller actually looks like it's a higher quality build. They both feel the same, the Staycool just looks nicer. I'm assuming it really doesn't matter for this engine but with all the attention on impellers lately, I thought there might be new opinions out there. Hoping to get another 2 seasons out of whichever I install.


Thanks in advance for any opinions.

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I doubt it matters much.  I recently installed the Johnson version and it looked fine as far as quality goes.  The impeller housing on the PCM 409 / 450 motor imparts a "dog ear" wear pattern on the blades due to the 2 sharp scalloped edges inside.  This is what you have to look out for.  The stay cool from Amazon might not be as susceptible but you won't know until you try one.  

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Sierra on AMAZON

Installed myself at the beginning of season.  Looked good at the end of season when pulled for winterizing.  I have a new one in the garage waiting to be installed.

I also made it a point never to start the engine without a Fake-a-Lake or actually being in the water.  Not sure if a "higher quality" brand would handle dry startups any better.  But as @german88 mentioned, the design of the housing is enough for me to never want to start the boat dry.  the machined edges are VERY sharp. 

Edited by Texan32
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I’m so tempted to go after those edges with my die grinder at low speed but have thought better of it so far. It’s not the best design for a housing I’ve seen. 

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6 hours ago, german88 said:

I’m so tempted to go after those edges with my die grinder at low speed but have thought better of it so far. It’s not the best design for a housing I’ve seen. 

Ive often thought about this too!  Im trying to wrap my brain around why the edges would need to be that sharp.  Was it intentional or just the result of boring the cylinder?

I dont even think it would take a die grinder.  I was thinking maybe a Dremel grinding stone (cone shaped).  You might even be able to just use your your fingers to create the spinning motion.  The idea isnt to change the ports, but to dull the razor blade edge.

How many people are having mid-season impeller failures on the Crusade RA057032 pumps (most pre-MD5/6i engines)?  To test this would take time to know if its even helping.  I would also think that a flow meter should be installed before and after any mods are made.  That way, one could see if there was any notable change in volume thru the pump.  Unfortunately, if it does turn out to be detrimental, a new pump is going to run roughly $600 (which baffles me).  Anyone have a used one?  Or know where i could find one?

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5 hours ago, Texan32 said:

Ive often thought about this too!  Im trying to wrap my brain around why the edges would need to be that sharp.  Was it intentional or just the result of boring the cylinder?

I dont even think it would take a die grinder.  I was thinking maybe a Dremel grinding stone (cone shaped).  You might even be able to just use your your fingers to create the spinning motion.  The idea isnt to change the ports, but to dull the razor blade edge.

How many people are having mid-season impeller failures on the Crusade RA057032 pumps (most pre-MD5/6i engines)?  To test this would take time to know if its even helping.  I would also think that a flow meter should be installed before and after any mods are made.  That way, one could see if there was any notable change in volume thru the pump.  Unfortunately, if it does turn out to be detrimental, a new pump is going to run roughly $600 (which baffles me).  Anyone have a used one?  Or know where i could find one?

My thoughts exactly.  Couple pics at 58 hours.  The Johnson impeller is quite soft and the petals are being pressed into the dog ear cavity.  I can't come up with any reason the edges are so sharp other than it would take an extra step in the mfg process to hand grind those surfaces. I'm going to at least "ease off" the edge the next time I replace mine.  Might try 400/600/1000 wet sand approach with the paper wrapped around a dowel that fits the shape.  Should't take much effort.  

 

IMG_2448.JPG

IMG_2447.JPG

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2 hours ago, german88 said:

My thoughts exactly.  Couple pics at 58 hours.  The Johnson impeller is quite soft and the petals are being pressed into the dog ear cavity.  I can't come up with any reason the edges are so sharp other than it would take an extra step in the mfg process to hand grind those surfaces. I'm going to at least "ease off" the edge the next time I replace mine.  Might try 400/600/1000 wet sand approach with the paper wrapped around a dowel that fits the shape.  Should't take much effort.  

 

IMG_2448.JPG

IMG_2447.JPG

i like the method idea!.  I have not ready anything about someone trying/doing this.  Because its been tried and failed....or just hasnt been tried at all.  Either way, when i get back to the US and go to summerize my T23, i will be doing this "mod".  I would like to keep in contact with you and compare notes on the outcome.  Could become something people do in the future.  I dont expect it to "solve" burned out impellers.  But if it helps to lower the wear on them, it just might cut down on the mid season failures.  For the price of the impeller, i will still be replacing it every year.  Its just too cheap of insurance. 

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