2002 21’ Wakesetter Monsoon bogs and won't accelerate

[justgary]

34 minutes ago, UWSkier said:

@justgary check out that data on a Monsoon that should be using MEFI2 or CEFI3.  Weird.

Perhaps somebody is confused about the model year.

@hollywoodhd, you have access to someone with a scan tool.  Use them. 

The ECM could think the engine is cool, and the scan tool will tell you exactly what the ECM thinks.  It says 97.7*F in your image.  Was the boat at operating temperature then?  If so, you need to figure out the sensor issue.

[hollywoodhd]

1 hour ago, formulaben said:

Can you get a readout while it is running?

 

1 hour ago, UWSkier said:

@justgary check out that data on a Monsoon that should be using MEFI2 or CEFI3.  Weird.

No I cant get a reading running this was from the Dealer I just bought the boat from  14 Hours away.

MEFI 4 ??

 

[hollywoodhd]

57 minutes ago, justgary said:

Perhaps somebody is confused about the model year.

@hollywoodhd, you have access to someone with a scan tool.  Use them. 

The ECM could think the engine is cool, and the scan tool will tell you exactly what the ECM thinks.  It says 97.7*F in your image.  Was the boat at operating temperature then?  If so, you need to figure out the sensor issue.

I would say not I had to put a thermostat in it

[hollywoodhd]

 

This is what they had done to boat.

[formulaben]

23 minutes ago, hollywoodhd said:

I would say not I had to put a thermostat in it

But the thermostat is not controlled by the ECU...if the ECU's sensor thinks it is cold, you'll run rich.  That's why I'm asking how many temp sensors you have.  The picture below applies to older ones that had 3.  I believe we have 2, one for the ECU, one for the dash.  Your dash sensor doesn't talk to the ECU.

[hollywoodhd]

On 6/28/2020 at 4:28 PM, formulaben said:

But the thermostat is not controlled by the ECU...if the ECU's sensor thinks it is cold, you'll run rich.  That's why I'm asking how many temp sensors you have.  The picture below applies to older ones that had 3.  I believe we have 2, one for the ECU, one for the dash.  Your dash sensor doesn't talk to the ECU.

i have 2

Okay I understand. I will go get a temp sensor for the ECM.

Can just go to auto parts store and get one for  5.7L engine.

 

I check engine and I have 1 & 3

Edited June 29, 2020 by hollywoodhd

[hollywoodhd]

1 hour ago, justgary said:

Perhaps somebody is confused about the model year.

@hollywoodhd, you have access to someone with a scan tool.  Use them. 

The ECM could think the engine is cool, and the scan tool will tell you exactly what the ECM thinks.  It says 97.7*F in your image.  Was the boat at operating temperature then?  If so, you need to figure out the sensor issue.

@justgary can I use a car scanner to find the info?  Have a friend that has some car scanner what will in need to ask for?

[hollywoodhd]

Here if full read out.

Edited June 28, 2020 by hollywoodhd

[justgary]

1 hour ago, hollywoodhd said:

@justgary can I use a car scanner to find the info?  Have a friend that has some car scanner what will in need to ask for?

Unfortunately, no.

When did they get that service done?  The boat should run correctly if it was recently.

Yeeeeeesh!  I just notice that your manifold air temperature read -40*F.  Either it doesn't use that sensor, or it is completely disconnected, or it is dead.  Post photos of your throttle body.

[justgary]

Page 5-10 of the MEFI 4 book indicates that only big block motors get the air temperature sensor.  I think we can ignore that value.

https://cdn.bakesonline.com/media/resourcelibrary/Indmar_MEFI4manual.pdf

[hollywoodhd]

4 minutes ago, justgary said:

Unfortunately, no.

When did they get that service done?  The boat should run correctly if it was recently.

Yeeeeeesh!  I just notice that your manifold air temperature read -40*F.  Either it doesn't use that sensor, or it is completely disconnected, or it is dead.  Post photos of your throttle body.

It was done in the fall 2019  but owner didn't fix steering cable or gauges or anything else wrong with it.  They just wanted it gone..... I guess I was the sucker or not.

I have not seen a manifold sensor.  I will have to get pics tomorrow or the next day.  I have to work and boat is not with me.

[hollywoodhd]

Here is way boat was running when I took it out of the water yesterday

https://rb.gy/5wcatv

[justgary]

5 minutes ago, hollywoodhd said:

Here is way boat was running when I took it out of the water yesterday

https://rb.gy/5wcatv

You haven't mentioned backfiring....

[hollywoodhd]

15 minutes ago, justgary said:

You haven't mentioned backfiring....

When I replied that the ICM didn't fix it I stated it was backfiring

It had never backfired before yesterday after the thermostat was installed.

I did put the old ICM back in and it done the same as the new ICM

 

Edited June 28, 2020 by hollywoodhd

[justgary]

6 minutes ago, hollywoodhd said:

When I replied that the ICM didn't fix it I stated it was backfiring

It had never backfired before yesterday after the thermostat was installed.

I did put the old ICM back in and it done the same as the new ICM

 

Sorry.  If it thinks it is cold it will add more fuel, so that could possibly cause backfiring also. 

[hollywoodhd]

9 minutes ago, justgary said:

Sorry.  If it thinks it is cold it will add more fuel, so that could possibly cause backfiring also. 

17 minutes ago, hollywoodhd said:

When I replied that the ICM didn't fix it I stated it was backfiring

 

It run better before the thermostat was installed it just wouldn't accelerate or get RPM up passed 3800

I have read that they have a warming phase so that explained that

But when I got engine up to temp it bogged and backfired.

I don't think much is wrong with it but I don't know what it is....... I think it is a sensor/ something simple

 

I am going to try the ECM Temp sensor unless someone else has a better idea

Edited June 28, 2020 by hollywoodhd

[hollywoodhd]

@justgary @formulaben Here is pic of my engine

 

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP6D_w1dKDWvx4w5AHRlUIREldNyG_eSIRlS9EF72nT4Kws3K8Egw85E4JLemK0Iw?key=RWYxQUZNRkZ1XzF4OFJjLTNCbFR0N01RR29OeUxB

[justgary]

Original 20 year old plug wires.  Change them.  Also get new plugs, cap, and rotor.  Get a marine cap because you want brass contacts. 

Did we not suggest cleaning the throttle body?  Too many threads with the same basic problems.  Clean the throttle body. 

[justgary]

A 7mm or 8mm plug wire kit is fine.  Best to change one wire at a time starting with the longest. 

[hollywoodhd]

18 minutes ago, justgary said:

A 7mm or 8mm plug wire kit is fine.  Best to change one wire at a time starting with the longest. 

got them order

I will clean the throttle body

[hollywoodhd]

@justgary 

Update

List of what I done

New ICM  (done same put old one back)

New Plugs (plug 5 Was black not firing correctly)

New Plug Wires ( went over firing order and wires 3 or 4 times to make sure firing order is correct)

New Distributor Cab and Rotor Button 

New Coil 

New Temperature Sending Unit

New Thermostat 

Cleaned Throttle Body

 

Still does the same thing 3000 RPM is all I can get out of till and if I hit it hard it backfires coming out of the hole

Its like when I get in the 2500 RPM range  it is like the brake is on. 

 

 

Update After new fuel filter

Just done another lake test. 

Boat idles good, Boat seems to run good but at 3000 to 3200 rpm it is like it hits the governor and that's it.  

At 3000 rpm I am 1/2 throttle when I open it up all the way 3200 to 3300 rpm's is it one time I pump the throttle and got it up to 3500 to 3700 rpm's but when I stopped pumping and left it at 3/4 throttle it went back to 3200 rpms

 

I have thrown parts at it and still not fixed.

I feel I.have two choices 

Order a Scanner or wait for an opening at a boat shop and take it to them.  

I use to have a old Mastercraft with 351 carb. prob should have kept it we Could barefoot day with it.

 

Edited July 7, 2020 by hollywoodhd

[hollywoodhd]

Ok update after lake test with new TPS

Boat idle smooth boat runs smooth but still will not run over 3500 rpms constantly

This time after it warms up I started down the lake and boat run up to 3900 rpms and then it fell off and would go over 3500 rpms.  
 

sitting in neutral boat has no problems revving up pass 4000 rpms 

On my last run I started pumping the throttle from 1/2 throttle to 3/4 throttle and the boat gained up to 3800 rpms and I stopped pumping and it fell back off to 3300 rpms 

So I am at a lose of what to do now.

[williemon]

Those fuel rail crossover hoses need replacing. I’d question the Entire fuel feed. Possibly collapsing inside the hose feeding the monster through a 1/8 hole. Could make it go lean. What do plugs look like after high rpm water test? Is the fuel pressure correct? Is the fuel pump the correct one? Those fuel rail crossovers look like something my teenager would do. Total botch job. 

[hollywoodhd]

2 hours ago, williemon said:

Those fuel rail crossover hoses need replacing. I’d question the Entire fuel feed. Possibly collapsing inside the hose feeding the monster through a 1/8 hole. Could make it go lean. What do plugs look like after high rpm water test? Is the fuel pressure correct? Is the fuel pump the correct one? Those fuel rail crossovers look like something my teenager would do. Total botch job. 

 I will check hose.

plugs look brown like they are suppose to except for plug five it is rich. 

Fuel pump is the Indmar 556014 Fuel Pump Conversion Kit to Pierburg

Fuel pressure is 42 psi

I just order Diacom hope this will help find the problem. 

[williemon]

If plug 5 still rich after you replace the plug, wires, cap, then that one injector is leaky. Shop should have Cleaned all injectors so you should not be having that issue. Keep working at it though. Once fixed you will love it.