Engine Gauges inop, "No Data" on speedo, '04 VLX

[MadDogMike]

Got the battery checked - it’s fine. Back at the lake now. Can’t find the fuses in the pic above. KDCr7, in your pic, is the top of the photo towards the bow? I’m looking all over, but so far my boat does not appear to have those in-line fuses. Do your gauges look the same as mine? (Pics here): https://photos.app.goo.gl/4boadXk7jztkq2EM9

 

[cla10beck]

Your situation is described in the troubleshooting guide.  The gauges calibrate, but don’t work after that.  It says to unplug each gauge one at a time with the engine running as it could be one faulty gauge.  Unplugging the faulty one will make the others work.

[MadDogMike]

9 minutes ago, cla10beck said:

Your situation is described in the troubleshooting guide.  The gauges calibrate, but don’t work after that.  It says to unplug each gauge one at a time with the engine running as it could be one faulty gauge.  Unplugging the faulty one will make the others work.

Tried that already, didn’t help. 

[cla10beck]

Did you confirm voltage in and out was correct based on the guide?

[KDCr7]

Yes top of pic is toward the bow.  

1 hour ago, MadDogMike said:

Do your gauges look the same as mine?

Mine are white numbering but the same otherwise.

[KDCr7]

Any chance the fuses are in the wire loom?

[MadDogMike]

57 minutes ago, cla10beck said:

Did you confirm voltage in and out was correct based on the guide?

I confirmed the voltage at the 5-pin connectors that plug into the gauges. I cannot confirm the voltage to/from the MMDC, because the guide does not match my boat. It describes an 18-pin connector, while mine has a 24-pin connector. I added a pic of my connectors to the Google Photos album link, above. I also emailed Bakes to ask if they have a troubleshooting guide for my model. 

Edited April 18, 2020 by MadDogMike

[MadDogMike]

28 minutes ago, KDCr7 said:

Any chance the fuses are in the wire loom?

I’ve removed all of the looms, exposing all of the wires. No in-line fuses to be seen. 

[csleaver]

Start by checking the power and ground to the MMDC.  Maybe this will help.

MMDC-in 24 pin harness for EFI

1, FUEL SENDER, 33 TO 240 OHMS, 0 TO 7 VDC, PINK WIRE
2, OIL PRESSURE SENDER, 33 TO 240 OHMS, 0 TO 7 VDC, LIGHT BLUE WIRE
3, SEA TEMP, 10000 OHMS AT 77 DEGREES F, 0 TO 7 VDC, BLUE WITH WHITE STRIPE WIRE
4, NA
5, GROUND, BLACK WITH WHITE STRIPE WIRE
6, ENGINE ECM DATA, ORANGE WIRE
7, AIR TEMP, 10000 OHMS AT 77 DEGREES F, 0 TO 7 VOLTS, YELLOW WIRE
8, SERVO GROUND, BLACK WITH WHITE STRIPE WIRE
9, NA
10, NA
11, IGNITION, 9 TO 16 VDC, PURPLE WIRE
12, BATTERY, 9 TO 16 VDC, RED WIRE
13, INCREASE/DECREASE GROUND, BLACK WITH WHITE WIRE
14, DECREASE SWITCH, 0 TO OPEN OHMS, 0 TO 5 VDC, RED WITH WHITE STRIPE WIRE
15, INCREASE SWITCH, 0 TO OPEN OHMS, 0 TO 5 VDC, BLACK WITH WHITE STRIPE WIRE
16, NA
17, NA
18, NA
19, HORN, 5 TO 11 VDC, BROWN WITH BLUE STRIPE WIRE
20, SERVO POWER, 9 TO 16 VDC, WHITE WITH RED STRIPE WIRE
21, SERVO CONTROL, 0 TO 16 VDC, RED WITH GREG STRIPE WIRE
22, NA
23, PADDLE WHEEL, GREEN WIRE
24, BOAT GROUND, BLACK WIRE

MMDC-10 pin gauge output harness for EFI

A, 7V REG, 7 VDC, WHITE WITH RED STRIPE WIRE
B, DISPLAY BACKLIGHT, 0 OR 12 VDC, WHITE WIRE
C, DIB_CAN HI, 2.5 VDC, ORANGE WIRE
D, SPEEDO CAL PRIMARY, 0 TO 5 VDC, BROWN WIRE
E, 7V_REG, 7 VDC, WHITE WITH RED STRIPE WIRE
F, 7B_REG GROUND, GREY WITH BLACK STRIPE WIRE
G, SPEEDO CAL SECONDARY, 0 TO 5 VDC, BROWN WITH WHITE STRIPE WIRE
H, DIB_CAN LO, 2.5 VDC, GREEN WIRE
J, AIB_DATA, 1.5 TO 5.5 VDC, YELLOW WIRE
K, 7V_REG GROUND, GREY WITH BLACK STRIPE WIRE

[MadDogMike]

3 hours ago, csleaver said:

Start by checking the power and ground to the MMDC.  Maybe this will help.

Awesome, thanks! I'll check this when I head back to the lake. For the 24-pin plug, am I correct to assume the pins are numbered 1-12 across the top row and 13-24 across the bottom row? And for the 10-pin plug, A-E on top and F-K on bottom?

[csleaver]

4 hours ago, MadDogMike said:

Awesome, thanks! I'll check this when I head back to the lake. For the 24-pin plug, am I correct to assume the pins are numbered 1-12 across the top row and 13-24 across the bottom row? And for the 10-pin plug, A-E on top and F-K on bottom?

On the 24 pin connector the 1 to 12 pins are on the top, 13 to 24 on the bottom, numbered right to left from the load in (wire) side.  The 10 pin connector is A to E on the bottom from right to left, and F to K on the top left to right from the load in (wire) side.  The succession of wire colors in the correct listed order should help to identify them also.

[MadDogMike]

On 4/19/2020 at 8:40 PM, csleaver said:

On the 24 pin connector the 1 to 12 pins are on the top, 13 to 24 on the bottom, numbered right to left from the load in (wire) side.  The 10 pin connector is A to E on the bottom from right to left, and F to K on the top left to right from the load in (wire) side.  The succession of wire colors in the correct listed order should help to identify them also.

OK, I was able to check everything today. Everything on the 24-pin input harness measured normal / within range. For the 10-pin, I assume I test the pins on the MMDC itself (not the wire harness), since it's output, right? That's what I did, and everything measured normal / within range, with one exception. J, AIB_DATA, 1.5 TO 5.5 VDC, YELLOW WIRE showed zero. I'm guessing that means my MMDC is toast?

Edited April 24, 2020 by MadDogMike

[justgary]

1 hour ago, MadDogMike said:

OK, I was able to check everything today. Everything on the 24-pin input harness measured normal / within range. For the 10-pin, I assume I test the pins on the MMDC itself (not the wire harness), since it's output, right? That's what I did, and everything measured normal / within range, with one exception. J, AIB_DATA, 1.5 TO 5.5 VDC, YELLOW WIRE showed zero. I'm guessing that means my MMDC is toast?

Was that with everything hooked up and the key on?  

Even if the thing isn't putting out data, it's probably a bad solder connection on the board.

[MadDogMike]

58 minutes ago, justgary said:

Was that with everything hooked up and the key on?  

Even if the thing isn't putting out data, it's probably a bad solder connection on the board.

Key on, everything hooked up except, of course, the 10-pin output harness. How easy is it to take the MMDC apart and look for/repair a bad solder connection? Bakes wants $830 + tax for this MMDC, which is insane.

[justgary]

2 hours ago, MadDogMike said:

Key on, everything hooked up except, of course, the 10-pin output harness. How easy is it to take the MMDC apart and look for/repair a bad solder connection? Bakes wants $830 + tax for this MMDC, which is insane.

Generally you won't bother looking for a bad solder joint per se.  It's better to just resolder all of them and try it out again. 

I think this site has a thread about it if you search. 

[csleaver]

The voltages can very by up to 1.0 VDC during testing, but if you are reading 0 VDC and there is no noticeable issues with the connector pins, then I would say there is a good chance that the problem is in the MMDC box.  I have never opened one up to repair it, so I won't have any good advice on how to go forward from there.  At the shop, to avoid high parts cost I would often swap a box from another boat, if possible, to make sure my diagnosis was correct before ordering an expensive replacement, but that may not be an option for you.

Edited April 25, 2020 by csleaver

[MadDogMike]

Yeah, it’s totally zero on that one pin. I took the MMDC apart and the solder joints look fine as far as I can tell. Apparently the computer just took a dump. To bad my boat doesn’t have those fuse KDCr7 mentioned. Perhaps a fuse would have saved the MMDC. 

Any other suggestions on where I could buy one, other than Bakes? I emailed Medallion twice, no response. Also googled the MMDC model number, but didn’t find it anywhere else. 

[justgary]

12 hours ago, MadDogMike said:

Yeah, it’s totally zero on that one pin. I took the MMDC apart and the solder joints look fine as far as I can tell. Apparently the computer just took a dump. To bad my boat doesn’t have those fuse KDCr7 mentioned. Perhaps a fuse would have saved the MMDC. 

Any other suggestions on where I could buy one, other than Bakes? I emailed Medallion twice, no response. Also googled the MMDC model number, but didn’t find it anywhere else. 

Resolder all of the joints anyway.  It may be worth your time while you are in there, and you can't tell by looking at them if they are good or bad.

[csleaver]

I think a Malibu dealer is going to be your best source for a replacement MMDC. 

Trying to get it directly from Medallion will likely get you no where, unless there is absolutely no other place you could ever possibly get it from.  I've had a little experience with that situation, it took months to resolve and probably helped cause most of my early wrinkles and baldness.

[Eagleboy99]

Bakes.

[justgary]

If you plan to scrap it, please send it to me.

[MadDogMike]

On 4/26/2020 at 10:36 PM, justgary said:

If you plan to scrap it, please send it to me.

Think you can fix it? I got in touch with Medallion and asked if I could send it in for repair. They said no, but I could buy a new one for $500, which is $330 cheaper than Bakes.

[hawaiianstyln]

curious to know if the new Medallion is plug and play or requires any adjustments or tuning of some sort. 

[Eagleboy99]

30 minutes ago, hawaiianstyln said:

curious to know if the new Medallion is plug and play or requires any adjustments or tuning of some sort. 

The last MDC (nnot MMDC) I relaced was plug and play.

[justgary]

2 hours ago, MadDogMike said:

Think you can fix it? I got in touch with Medallion and asked if I could send it in for repair. They said no, but I could buy a new one for $500, which is $330 cheaper than Bakes.

Who knows?  I tend to take *everything* apart before I junk it, and I haven't taken one of those apart before.  Sometimes I get lucky and find a repairable problem.