M5DI engine over heating

[wdr]

I got 306 hours out of my original 15000A. And it is a wonder I got 30 hours out of it after looking at the brass cheese grater cam when I pulled the pump at 306. I think some of the stream lining of the water line I did may have helped. That and I typically push the boat off of the trailer with the trailer when I back it in which may have helped to prime it. The weekend the impeller died the boat was launched very slowly on a new and very flat ramp so no forced water like normal. BICBW. A big shout out out to @Bake's Marine for probably saving the rest of my summer. Seems my dealership doesn’t have, can’t get impellers. WTH? 

[dalt1]

3 hours ago, wdr said:

I got 306 hours out of my original 15000A. And it is a wonder I got 30 hours out of it after looking at the brass cheese grater cam when I pulled the pump at 306. I think some of the stream lining of the water line I did may have helped. That and I typically push the boat off of the trailer with the trailer when I back it in which may have helped to prime it. The weekend the impeller died the boat was launched very slowly on a new and very flat ramp so no forced water like normal. BICBW. A big shout out out to @Bake's Marine for probably saving the rest of my summer. Seems my dealership doesn’t have, can’t get impellers. WTH? 

Dealers doing all they can to keep you happy eh?.

[wdr]

I was thinking about sending a head slap emoji to @dalt1 but figured I wouldn’t rub salt into your wounds. But seriously, we have to get parts from a dealer on the left coast? 

[Sparky450]

6 hours ago, wdr said:

The weekend the impeller died the boat was launched very slowly on a new and very flat ramp so no forced water like normal. BICBW

This is interesting. We have a VERY STEEP ramp and I have not shredded an impeller

I took delivery January 23 3019.

I changed my original impeller at about  10 hrs. After that I think I went to about 240 hrs. And at that point I sucked some weeds and plugged the strainer. It still went another 15-20 hours after I sucked the weeds. At 390 hrs I just changed that impeller. 
 

I just changed my impeller again at about 380 hours. This is what it looked like after sitting from mid November to mid February. We surfed 2-21 this year. Notice the curved veins. Usually when I pull annimpeller the veins go back straight. And that looks like the brass center. I will have to check when I am back out at the boat. 
 

And I don’t blip the throttle  

 

 

Edited June 12, 2021 by Sparky450

[wdr]

@Sparky450 is that a 15000K?

[Steve B.]

3 minutes ago, Sparky450 said:

This is interesting. We have a VERY STEEP ramp and I have not shredded an impeller

I took delivery January 23 3019.

I changed my original impeller at about  10 hrs. After that I think I went to about 240 hrs. And at that point I sucked some weeds and plugged the strainer. It still went another 15-20 hours after I sucked the weeds. At 390 hrs I just changed that impeller. 
 

I just changed my impeller again at about 380 hours. This is what it looked like after sitting from mid November to mid February. We surfed 2-21 this year. Notice the curved veins. Usually when I pull annimpeller the veins go back straight  

 

 

This one had 380?

[Sparky450]

3 minutes ago, wdr said:

@Sparky450 is that a 15000K?

I have no idea. If I remember correctly this one was in a box. I bought 2 at my 10 hr service. This was the second one I put in. I just pulled it and put one in that was in a plastic bag with an o-ring. 😂😂😂

[wdr]

4 minutes ago, Steve B. said:

This one had 380?

I think it has a lot to do with how good of a casting the brass cam was. I had a couple tips on the cam arms that were curling upward into the pump and impeller. They have since been shortened, ramped and polished before I reinstalled  everything.

[Sparky450]

7 minutes ago, Steve B. said:

This one had 380?

No this one had about 140 and had set for a couple months this winter. Truth be told, the reason that one got changed is because I was having an alarm on the first start of the day. 
the alarms have stopped. So those bad veins were causing problems. 

[wdr]

3 minutes ago, Sparky450 said:

I have no idea. If I remember correctly this one was in a box. I bought 2 at my 10 hr service. This was the second one I put in. I just pulled it and put one in that was in a plastic bag with an o-ring. 😂😂😂

That’s how 15000K’s came in from Bakes. Thanks to them again. Guess dealers don’t sell impellers east of the Mississippi. 

Edited June 12, 2021 by wdr

[ahopkins22LSV]

11 minutes ago, wdr said:

That’s how 15000K’s came in from Bakes. Thanks to them again. Guess dealers don’t sell impellers east of the Mississippi. 

It’s not that they don’t or don’t want to. They can’t get them. The supply chain cannot supply them. Luckily it seems as if bakes has inventory. 

[oldjeep]

Looks like amazon has plenty.  The SCP-15000K that bakes is selling is a stay cool impeller part number. $26-$29 on amazon.  Or $24 direct 

https://www.staycoolpumps.com/store/p54/Impeller_Kit_Replaces_Sherwood_15000K_Jabsco_18327-0001-P.html

 

 

Edited June 12, 2021 by oldjeep

[Sparky450]

Glad I have another spare😎😎

[wdr]

Yep got a spare as well.

[23LSVOwner]

Heads up guys.

 

The ones you are getting from dealers and online are not the new Johnson made impellers for the Sherwood housing. They are only available through Malibu, not out in the wild for public sale.

[wdr]

23 minutes ago, 23LSVOwner said:

Heads up guys.

 

The ones you are getting from dealers and online are not the new Johnson made impellers for the Sherwood housing. They are only available through Malibu, not out in the wild for public sale.

That would be the near $100 dollar “Globe” impeller I am guessing? 

[wdr]

After having already had my Sherwood apart, there is NO impeller that is going to withstand the poor engineering of that pump “cam”. I am going to pull my impeller again this week to see if the mods I have done to that brass cam may have improved the longevity of the impeller.

[23LSVOwner]

56 minutes ago, wdr said:

That would be the near $100 dollar “Globe” impeller I am guessing? 

If you are referring to the one made by Johnson for the Sherwood pumps, no.

[23LSVOwner]

40 minutes ago, wdr said:

After having already had my Sherwood apart, there is NO impeller that is going to withstand the poor engineering of that pump “cam”. I am going to pull my impeller again this week to see if the mods I have done to that brass cam may have improved the longevity of the impeller.

 

Inspection of the pump internals for what you found is part of the bulletin.

[wdr]

14 minutes ago, 23LSVOwner said:

 

Inspection of the pump internals for what you found is part of the bulletin.

The bulletin was for the recall/ replacement for the “Sherwood pump”? I haven’t seen or been informed by my dealer or Malibu that there was a replacement. I normally get those through USPS so the check may still be in the mail.

[23LSVOwner]

Just now, wdr said:

The bulletin was for the recall/ replacement for the “Sherwood pump”? I haven’t seen or been informed by my dealer or Malibu that there was a replacement. I normally get those through USPS so the check may still be in the mail.

No, it was a bulletin for the new impeller. Part of the process was to inspect the pump internally as well as checking for air leaks on the intake side of the plumbing.

[wdr]

The boat has been down to the dealership 3 times since new for other warranty work and I have been down there twice for a new impeller. Guess that block didn’t get checked, at least I wasn’t told about it and it hasn’t appeared on any of my paperwork as a performed service or check. I am just going stop right here on this!

[SandLaker1088]

2020 vtx - just replaced the impeller.  2nd time In the water this year and engine is overheating :-(  I can’t believe this.  Very disappointing.  With less than 3 hours on the impeller, the only other possible cause is a plugged sea strainer - correct?  I tried to get near it tonight but the engine was too hot.   Also, will I need to reset a code before the engine will run above 1500 rpm?

[wdr]

Be sure to check you strainer for debris first. Unless nearly all of the impeller was shot into the heat exchanger, I kind of doubt this is your issue but… Pull the top of the heat exchanger off to check for impeller scraps. When mine finally went south almost all of the debris was isolated in the hose between the pump and the heat exchanger, because it wasn’t sucking any water at all. I pulled the top off just to be sure. A 6mm Allen wrench will get the bolts out and 5/16” nut driver for the hose clamp as I recall. It is a NiBrAl casting which kind of surprised me. There will be 2 gaskets. An “O” ring on the actual upper housing plate and a lower gasket which sits on the face of the exchanger. The face of the plate mates/sits on that gasket when reassembled. It is or appears to be a very soft rubber that will distort when things are pulled apart. I cut the gasket, put it in place and cut out @ 1” of the gasket so it was slightly larger than the ID and butted the faces in place. The cut section I situated so I could see the cut through the exchanger intake port and tightened it back down evenly. Other than the fact that the 1/2” of paint is off of the Allen heads, you couldn’t tell it had been messed with. Not a high pressure application so no worries or leaks for me. An opaque and no longer see through strainer cap is a pretty good indication of a impeller failure and or overheat issue in my now experience. Good luck.

Edited June 17, 2022 by wdr

[csleaver]

Any loose clamp or hose connection from the hull intake to the sea pump will kill an impeller pretty quickly.  Check all of the clamps and hoses.