Emergency impeller change kit?

[Whitecap]

TMC’ers,

  After reading some good TMC threads about on board emergency tool kits, I kept hearing a universal statement being repeated.  “Always have a spare impeller, in case one shreds while out on the water”.  I got to thinking about this.  Yesterday, out on the water, on my morning ride (I like the lake weekday mornings when the lake is completely empty), I took a good hard look at that raw water pump.  (2013, 23’ LSV, indmar 350).  I simulated an impeller failure to see the feasibility for a rookie like me to self rescue.  

Lessons learned:

1. The raw water pump / impeller is nestled right in between both “pipes” of the exhaust system.  It was just too hot to try to get to - initially .  Ok, easy enough.  Throw out the anchor (shallow lake), wait for things to cool down. Maybe soak up some towels with lake water and place them on the  exhaust pipes, after some cooling, to keep working space cooler.

2. That impeller is way back there near the transom, down near the bilge.   I can get back to the raw water pump with one hand, upside-down.  It’s doable, but it’s limited space. (Others here have done it, I’m sure I can to - at some point).

3. Laying on top of the engine, head facing stern, toward the swim platform, looking downward, gave me the best view and access to the raw water pump.  (Better than removing the ballast lockers and trying to get access to the raw water pump from the side, it seems to me.)

4. So, with a simulated, burnt out, or destroyed impeller, It would probably be jammed in there pretty tight? Right? I was thinking it could be more difficult to remove than normal, with one hand, upside-down, on a bobbing boat?

5.  Making a lot of assumptions here........ BUT....... I was thinking the easiest way for me to tackle an on water impeller change would be to have a kit handy for this undertaking.  I’m a pilot by trade and would like to go over what the heck I’m going to do in case something goes South.  (Maybe overly concerned about my, and my family’s safety on the water).  

What stuff should I have on board (to make this process as easy as possible under way)?

A- small ratchet set (5/16) for those bolts on the impeller housing?

B- spare impeller kit (which one?) (it should have the lube and needed gaskets included with it, right?)

C- impeller puller?  https://www.bakesonline.com/impeller-puller-stainless-steel.html

D - impeller installer?  Anyone ever use one?  Is it even needed?

 

 

here was, what seems to me, to be  a decent video for an impeller change in someone’s garage, that shows the access to the raw water pump, and the actual replacement of the impeller.  Kind of tricky.  (Not a Malibu, but the work space, and the impeller looks very similar to mine.

 

Ok.... I’m new a new boat owner. I’m also trying to be self reliant.  What would you do to prepare yourself for an impeller failure on the water.  (besides just flag someone down and get towed back in.  I’m the only boat on my lake, most of the time, It seems.)

Looking forward to hearing what you guys are doing,

Whitecap

 

 

 

Edited September 10, 2019 by Whitecap

[oldjeep]

You just need a wrench and a pliers.  Remove cover, bump the engine and then yank it out. 

Just make sure you only use wremch to break loose, finish with fingers and don't drop them.  Doesnt hurt to have a few spares. 

Edited September 10, 2019 by oldjeep

[Eagleboy99]

Should one not pull the kill switch to prevent start up?

[Eagleboy99]

Also, if the bolts are hex head, then I would use a small socket rather than screwdriver, if only to reduce the chance of dropping a bolt (extra bolts on board anyone?)

[srab]

Do yourself a favor and make a one time investment for an impeller puller. 

I don't need to spray anything or pry anything, and it works first time/every time.  One of the best $50 investments I believe I've made when it comes to my boat.

Plus, when you're by yourself, crawling out of position (FWIW, I lie down in the port side storage compartment on my boat and remove the engine divider completely to have pretty decent access to the pump housing), up and over the rear seats and on up to the helm to bump the engine over, then crawl back into position, only to figure out that the impeller didn't quite back out enough to get a better grasp with your needle nose pliers or paint can openers, necessitating that you do the whole process again, you may come to realize that you are spending a lot more time and effort to get that impeller out than is really necessary.  I know that that was the conclusion that I came to, back over a dozen years ago.  I don't think I've uttered a single curse word while changing impellers ever since!

Another great tool for this procedure is a finger ratchet.  Works perfectly, with the appropriate socket, to remove those screws.  And, while always possible, I guess, it'd be much harder to over-tighten those screws once you have the new impeller in (and you  DO NOT want to over-tighten!).

Never needed anything but a couple of thumps with the palm of my hand to get a new, lubricated, impeller all the way in place.

[srab]

FWIW, go2marine.com is having a sale on stainless steel Sea Dog impeller pullers.  Just sayin'.

[justgary]

Once you get the impeller change down, if you have a trailer, simulate a tire change next to a busy highway....

[Eagleboy99]

9 minutes ago, srab said:

FWIW, go2marine.com is having a sale on stainless steel Sea Dog impeller pullers.  Just sayin'.

Stoopid (tm) question, but which size for the noral Malibu impeller?

[oldjeep]

10 minutes ago, srab said:

FWIW, go2marine.com is having a sale on stainless steel Sea Dog impeller pullers.  Just sayin'.

The acme weekend saver kit has a prop puller and a needle nose.   Maybe some day I will meet an impeller I can't yank with a pliers in a few seconds.  Thos impeller pullers look like they require both hands. 

[oldjeep]

10 minutes ago, justgary said:

Once you get the impeller change down, if you have a trailer, simulate a tire change next to a busy highway....

Most important thing, carry a spare. 

[srab]

4 minutes ago, Eagleboy99 said:

Stoopid (tm) question, but which size for the noral Malibu impeller?

Pretty certain its the small puller (for 2 1/4 - 2 9/16 in).  Bakes describes theirs (also on sale) for that same size impeller, and mine, IIRC, has the straight arms.

[srab]

5 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

  Thos impeller pullers look like they require both hands. 

Not really.  You back the T handle out, then slide the arms in on either side of impeller hub.  Tighten one side with thumb and index finger, then the other, to grasp the impeller.  Then, just rotate the T handle clockwise until it contacts the shaft, and, with each subsequent turn, the impeller backs out a tiny bit.

[MadMan]

I've found it quite easy to change impellers by doing one simple thing.  Lube the vanes.  When I've changed them after the winter layup, it's almost impossible to pull it out with pliers because the rubber has stuck to the housing.  I just squirt a little hand or dish soap in, crank the engine 1 revolution without starting, then it will pull out with almost no effort.  The residual soap left in the housing is just what you need to slide the new one in with minimal effort.  Easy-peasy.

The hardest part is finding the lost cover screw that you dropped in the bilge.

[dalt1]

How do you just bump over the engine on the new push button starts? Pull Lanyard first?

[oldjeep]

7 minutes ago, dalt1 said:

How do you just bump over the engine on the new push button starts? Pull Lanyard first?

Just hit start and then hit stop.  You are not going to kill anything by letting it fire for a second. 

[RedWakesetterVLX]

A squirt is dawn dish soap, bump the engine and two free paint can openers from Home Depot works best for me.   

[Ronnie]

I don't get why people are not using a puller. It's so easy to use. How many housings are damaged by prying against the edge?

[BlindSquirrel]

19 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

How many housings are damaged by prying against the edge?

0 of 5 different ones I’ve done with free paint can openers.

Edited September 11, 2019 by BlindSquirrel

[granddaddy55]

OYou can bump a key start Axis before the engine starts and turn it off  to try and loosen the impellers , start then off just like old Jeep said for the button starts 

i like my puller but I have those needle nose from the prop kit too 

I use a nut driver, less torque and chance to damage them , to be kind to those brass screws 

and you work from the stern and get your arms down in front of that muffler, odd but it works and you work more by feel than trying to put your arms in there and be able to see

OH,  snd I have a small Dawn dish soap on hand so I’m ready 

Edited September 11, 2019 by granddaddy55

[oldjeep]

29 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

I don't get why people are not using a puller. It's so easy to use. How many housings are damaged by prying against the edge?

Not understanding why you would ever pry.  Just pull the damn thing straight out.  20+ impellers and the just pull out. 

[Eagleboy99]

Funny - the impellers and pullers are 3-4 times more in Canada.  To heck with that noise...

[RedWakesetterVLX]

1 hour ago, Ronnie said:

I don't get why people are not using a puller. It's so easy to use. How many housings are damaged by prying against the edge?

Who’s prying?  They slide between the veins and pull right out.

[Eagleboy99]

I just ordered an impleer and puller  - under $100 CAD for both.

[carguy79ta]

Think I will buy one also.

[eubanks]

Do you guys have the M5 impeller part number?  I do not see it in the manual.  I would assume a small puller size would work as well?