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Rip & replace factory subwoofer + enclosure...


IXFE

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Make shift compass (drilled two holes in a ruler).  This is just to draw a perfectly centered circle as a reference.  I won’t cut it until I do a test fit in the boat.

CA47DDD7-2C60-4EFA-AF2A-7E9E49B72B34.jpeg

Edited by IXFE
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3 hours ago, IXFE said:

“Working” from home this afternoon (aka multi-tasking conference call whilst driving stainless steel screws into my box).

Who else works on the boat during meetings??

Every chance I get! I even count it when I have the opportunity to take a call while I'm out on the boat. As long as the meeting application (WebEx, Zoom, Skype, GTM, etc) say I'm online, then I was there :innocent:

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4 hours ago, IXFE said:

Who else works on the boat during meetings??

✋🏻

Thats only when I’m not surfing with the Webex playing on the tower speakers though. :)

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For those who wish to attempt this, here are my volume calculations and cut dimensions. 

Be sure to confirm all measurements on your boat before diving in.  I assume the opening on each boat is slightly different. 

Edit: in case your wondering what 1 and 2 refer to in the volume calculations below, I added a new pic.  Note that Area 2 is effectively equal to what I’m adding over and above the factory volume (which is way below Wetsounds spec). 

6BAA8870-DCD9-486A-8752-50A3BBEBB803.jpeg

5DC4BB77-41E5-4C65-A3D8-AB5E1AA276BA.jpeg

8F8DA7E9-90B4-4A9A-A02E-85013EDD941B.jpeg

Edited by IXFE
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1 hour ago, shawndoggy said:

do you have any room to put a block under the box to add an air / water gap?

These are kind of details that always slow me down.  As such, it has been at the back of my mind all along. 

My first thought was to just use a few pieces of gatorstep (like the factory did).  That will give me the cushion I need to avoid having a hard surface mounted directly to another hard surface.  I've also used a few layers of Dynamat in the past.  

But then yesterday after my test fit I started thinking about elevating the box for the purpose of centering the woofer better in the square fiberglass hole.  The trick is that if I add, say 3/4" HDPE feet, I will make it harder to get through the hole.  

So I have to think this part through very carefully, and probably do another test fit with the feet taped on.    

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45 minutes ago, IXFE said:

These are kind of details that always slow me down.  As such, it has been at the back of my mind all along. 

My first thought was to just use a few pieces of gatorstep (like the factory did).  That will give me the cushion I need to avoid having a hard surface mounted directly to another hard surface.  I've also used a few layers of Dynamat in the past.  

But then yesterday after my test fit I started thinking about elevating the box for the purpose of centering the woofer better in the square fiberglass hole.  The trick is that if I add, say 3/4" HDPE feet, I will make it harder to get through the hole.  

So I have to think this part through very carefully, and probably do another test fit with the feet taped on.    

what if you screw  the "feet" into the floor (I would rip down a couple of strips of the starboard from the OG box) and then screw your box into those feet from the inside?  Then you don't make the box taller (but you would make a couple parts of the floor inside higher).

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52 minutes ago, IXFE said:

say 3/4" HDPE feet

What about screw/bolt-on rubber feet?  My engineer friends say connections should be 100% solid or 100% isolated.  And how are you fixing the box in place anyway?  

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1 hour ago, shawndoggy said:

what if you screw  the "feet" into the floor (I would rip down a couple of strips of the starboard from the OG box) and then screw your box into those feet from the inside?  Then you don't make the box taller (but you would make a couple parts of the floor inside higher).

Yes, this is an option I've been kicking around with some others offline this morning.

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Top attached (webex on double-mute). Glue is drying. 

Note the pencil circles; not much room to move the 11” cutout (inside circle) up when you’re dealing with a 13.5” baffle. I’m just gonna keep it centered. 

The uneven square you see is where the box lines up with the fiberglass cutout in the boat (assuming no feet). 

AA9BC04B-8359-48A5-8CD9-C44EE0693EC4.jpeg

Edited by IXFE
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looking at the lines on your box... Will you have to round out the glass on the helm kick panel wall to accommodate the driver circle or will it sit back from the glass so as not to touch?

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52 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

looking at the lines on your box... Will you have to round out the glass on the helm kick panel wall to accommodate the driver circle or will it sit back from the glass so as not to touch?

Shawn, even the factory box sits back from the helm wall. Neither the driver nor the enclosure are designed to be in contact with the backside of that wall. That was the biggest issue with my factory enclosure; while the bottom of the box was spaced out a bit from the backside of the wall, the top/front edge of the box was testing against it (but not secured to it). Imagine how that sounded!

my plan is to mount the box to the floor, as discussed, about an inch behind the wall with the woofer centered in the square. In short, when excursion occurs, nothing will hit the wall. 

Posting these pics again to show desired placement. 

E5745790-A88B-4266-AF21-091E5A2AF515.jpeg

02F6AECE-11A9-475A-AD31-6DE69ED9B2B7.jpeg

Edited by IXFE
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makes sense!  Mad skills on this one @IXFE.  Great work.  Haha how much time sitting there just staring at stuff and trying to model it up in your brain?

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