Impossible Stuck Prop

[Slaney]

I stripped my prop puller last night.  Wish I would have read this before doing that.  Have a new puller on order and I will try applying heat next time.  

[TallRedRider]

1 hour ago, MadMan said:

Keep in mind, each strike with a hammer is being absorbed by the bearings in the v-drive.

I have not heard of Vdrive damage from removing the prop.  Has that ever been documented?    Hitting it with a hammer is not the same as driving it, but I push 9000 pounds at 25 mph through those same bearings, and pull that weight through the vdrive also whenever I hit reverse.  

[formulaben]

This thread reaffirms why I pull the prop off every winter.

[oldjeep]

Since there are no updates

Edited May 25, 2019 by oldjeep

[MadMan]

22 hours ago, TallRedRider said:

I have not heard of Vdrive damage from removing the prop.  Has that ever been documented?    Hitting it with a hammer is not the same as driving it, but I push 9000 pounds at 25 mph through those same bearings, and pull that weight through the vdrive also whenever I hit reverse.  

The damage is known as brinelling.

[amartin]

Sorry to revive an old thread, but looking for advice.  I have a prop that I can't get off after trying all weekend.  I switched props about a month ago to get my "speed" prop repaired from some very slight damage, so this prop has only been on for a few weeks.  The boat is on a lift and I am working in about 4' of water, but I have never had a problem with this in the past.  I have an acme puller and have tried every orientation of the puller on the prop and just about every combination of light / hard hammer blows to try to create the harmonics to pop this thing.  I tried heat with a propane torch yesterday.  Hub got warm, not crazy hot, but it was tough to heat heat going with wave and wind action.  I have left the puller on the prop tightened for the week and am hoping to find it miraculously loose in a few days, but I don't have high hopes!  I had it on for about 4 hours continuously yesterday.

A couple of thought / ideas:

I only tighten the puller with a box end wrench.  I have always done this so that closed end of the wrench can be tied to a rope (that is also tied to the prop puller) so that I don't lose things in the water.  Is it worth trying to torque the puller tighter or am I just going to damage the puller?  I have already greased the puller threads.

I have heard that different types of hammers may create different harmonics.  I am currently just using a claw hammer.  Any thoughts?

Anyone tried or had any luck with one of these:  https://www.generalpropeller.com/propeller-pullers/Walter-Pullers/NO.-2N  I hate spending the $400, but if it gets it done I might have to.

The prop on there if fine right now, so it is not an emergency, but I sure would like to be able to get this one off.

Finally, just pre-emptively, I have hit it with my purse!

[dalt1]

5 minutes ago, amartin said:

Finally, just pre-emptively, I have hit it with my purse!

You need more Maxi Pads in your purse.

Try a BIGGER hammer. You hitting your puller on the C frame swinging from front towards the back of the boat?

[csleaver]

Once the prop puller tool is tight against the prop and shaft, hit the tool with a hammer on the side facing the front of the boat.  A 36 oz or larger ball peen hammer will work best.

[amartin]

8 minutes ago, dalt1 said:

You need more Maxi Pads in your purse.

Try a BIGGER hammer. You hitting your puller on the C frame swinging from front towards the back of the boat?

 

2 minutes ago, csleaver said:

Once the prop puller tool is tight against the prop and shaft, hit the tool with a hammer on the side facing the front of the boat.  A 36 oz or larger ball peen hammer will work best.

Yes - I am hitting the right side of the puller!  There are enough small knicks on the strut to prove it if you guys need photos!  I guess I am buying anew bigger hammer!

[dalt1]

5 minutes ago, csleaver said:

Once the prop puller tool is tight against the prop and shaft, hit the tool with a hammer on the side facing the front of the boat.  A 36 oz or larger ball peen hammer will work best.

That's what I said.

[oldjeep]

Don't tighten it more than 1/2 turn past snug and hit the puller on the side - hard.  If that doesn't do it then heat up the prop hub area with a propane torch for a little bit and try it again.  I've taken off a couple of props that people claimed were completely stuck and usually get them off with one good smack.

FWIW - my purse is a 64oz blacksmith hammer (hammerschlagen hammer)

Edited June 27, 2022 by oldjeep

[shawndoggy]

I've always had luck just dumping hot water over the prop.  Thought I met my match this weekend... cranked the prop puller down, did the (claw) hammer smacks, retightened, tried a dead blow hammer, still no joy, just wouldn't pop.  Left the puller tensioned up and ran and boiled about 4 cups of water in the microwave.  came back and poured it over the prop hub and sure enough, "klang!!!" and it was free.

Obvs if you are standing chest deep in the lake trying to do this it's probably a bit harder.

[amartin]

5 hours ago, oldjeep said:

Don't tighten it more than 1/2 turn past snug and hit the puller on the side - hard.  If that doesn't do it then heat up the prop hub area with a propane torch for a little bit and try it again.  I've taken off a couple of props that people claimed were completely stuck and usually get them off with one good smack.

FWIW - my purse is a 64oz blacksmith hammer (hammerschlagen hammer)

Is there a realistic concern with damaging the drive train from hitting it too hard / repeatedly?  I don't mean "missing" with the hammer, but transferring the load to the v-drive.

Also, when you suggest hitting the "side" of the puller, are you talking about the long side of the 'C', or the bow facing end of the puller?

[oldjeep]

13 minutes ago, amartin said:

Is there a realistic concern with damaging the drive train from hitting it too hard / repeatedly?  I don't mean "missing" with the hammer, but transferring the load to the v-drive.

Also, when you suggest hitting the "side" of the puller, are you talking about the long side of the 'C', or the bow facing end of the puller?

Long side of the c clamp.  I don't think I am strong enough to damage something capable of dealing with a 350 hp engine;).  Harmonic prop pullers rely entirely on the vibration from hammering on them. 

[dalt1]

2 hours ago, oldjeep said:

Long side of the c clamp.  I don't think I am strong enough to damage something capable of dealing with a 350 hp engine;).  Harmonic prop pullers rely entirely on the vibration from hammering on them. 

I always hit on the top / radius shaped part of the clamp. Direct blows from front of boat to the rear.

[amartin]

It turns out a bigger (3 lb) purse was all that was needed. I tried the side of the puller a few times with no luck and a couple shots on the front popped it right off.  I did interestingly enough find a sheared key when I removed the prop though.  

I appreciate valuable the input from the crew as usual

I 

[cowwboy]

1 hour ago, amartin said:

It turns out a bigger (3 lb) purse was all that was needed. I tried the side of the puller a few times with no luck and a couple shots on the front popped it right off.  I did interestingly enough find a sheared key when I removed the prop though.  

I appreciate valuable the input from the crew as usual

I had a sheered prop key on mine once. The I tried all of the above idea's and even map gas didn't work, my prop shop used a acetylene torch and it finally let loose.  

[TommyTuna]

On 6/28/2022 at 11:31 AM, amartin said:

It turns out a bigger (3 lb) purse was all that was needed. I tried the side of the puller a few times with no luck and a couple shots on the front popped it right off.  I did interestingly enough find a sheared key when I removed the prop though.  

I appreciate valuable the input from the crew as usual

I 

I find myself in the exact position as you including doing this on a lift while standing in the water.   My Axis A22 only 1.5 years old and trying to change the prop for first time. Got the Acme C Puller on - banged the heck out of it with a normal claw hammer (hitting it on the c-part of clamp striking from Bow to Stern).  I even dumped a bunch of boiling water on the prop hub and no dice.

Can you confirm which way you hit the clamp with the bigger hammer to get this off? Was it on the "C" part (opposite to bolt side of puller) as per the Acme instructions video (bow to stern strike)?  I'm picking up a bigger Ball Pein hammer this week after talking to prop shop owner who said a 36 oz hammer the way to go. 

Funny how in the Acme video the person just hits it with the weekend saver kit wrench and it pops off first try:)

[tvano]

consider putting a load on the clamp then walking away for a few days, add more tension to the screw and walk away again.

[BlindSquirrel]

A little heat on the prop always does the trick for me. A heat gun or propane torch would work.

[amartin]

2 hours ago, TommyTuna said:

I find myself in the exact position as you including doing this on a lift while standing in the water.   My Axis A22 only 1.5 years old and trying to change the prop for first time. Got the Acme C Puller on - banged the heck out of it with a normal claw hammer (hitting it on the c-part of clamp striking from Bow to Stern).  I even dumped a bunch of boiling water on the prop hub and no dice.

Can you confirm which way you hit the clamp with the bigger hammer to get this off? Was it on the "C" part (opposite to bolt side of puller) as per the Acme instructions video (bow to stern strike)?  I'm picking up a bigger Ball Pein hammer this week after talking to prop shop owner who said a 36 oz hammer the way to go. 

Funny how in the Acme video the person just hits it with the weekend saver kit wrench and it pops off first try:)

Yes - Bow to stern strike.  I tried leaving it under tension for several days, heat (butane torch) and anything else that I could think of.  The bigger hammer made quick work of it.  Good Luck!

[TommyTuna]

3 hours ago, amartin said:

Yes - Bow to stern strike.  I tried leaving it under tension for several days, heat (butane torch) and anything else that I could think of.  The bigger hammer made quick work of it.  Good Luck!

Thank you for confirming. When you did butane torch, did you wrap the shaft with wet rags?  My prop shop said to wrap shaft and strut with wet rags to avoid getting the bearings and other parts too hot. They also said to remove the nylock nut to ensure the nylon didn't melt but leave cotter pin in to catch the prop.

Anyone know the exact size/spec of the nylock nut? was going to purchase a spare

[BlindSquirrel]

15 minutes ago, TommyTuna said:

Anyone know the exact size/spec of the nylock nut? was going to purchase a spare

Not sure the year of your tug, but this one fits the common 1 1/8 shafts.

https://skidim.com/prop-nut-nylock-brass.html

 

[oldjeep]

15 minutes ago, TommyTuna said:

Thank you for confirming. When you did butane torch, did you wrap the shaft with wet rags?  My prop shop said to wrap shaft and strut with wet rags to avoid getting the bearings and other parts too hot. They also said to remove the nylock nut to ensure the nylon didn't melt but leave cotter pin in to catch the prop.

Anyone know the exact size/spec of the nylock nut? was going to purchase a spare

Use a map torch, you shouldn't have to heat it for more than 30 seconds or so.  If you are heating it long enough to be worried about the shaft then you are doing it too much.  

I personally don't leave the nut or cotter on, never had an issue just catching the prop and puller - but if I was doing it over the water I'd have a rope attached to the puller and prop so that neither one ends up on the bottom.

 

 

 

[TommyTuna]

12 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Use a map torch, you shouldn't have to heat it for more than 30 seconds or so.  If you are heating it long enough to be worried about the shaft then you are doing it too much.  

I personally don't leave the nut or cotter on, never had an issue just catching the prop and puller - but if I was doing it over the water I'd have a rope attached to the puller and prop so that neither one ends up on the bottom.

 

 

 

Good call re: rope around the puller.  Didn't think that far ahead but i can see how it would quickly pop off and sink.