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hawaiianstyln

Engine Bogging - new issue after intake gaskets/exhaust manifolds

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hawaiianstyln

as others would know from my previous posts of just completing new intake manifold gaskets, new exhaust risers (milky oil), I have everything back together.  I did replace Cap and Rotor during the engine work. 

Basically now when I start the boat it sits there and flutters like it's trying to get to idle at 650 RPMs but then goes down to 150-ish like it's going to stall continuously.  Remember doing an intake manifold job you have to unplug all fuel injectors from electrical connections, fuel rails we left on, disconnected the fuel line and lots of gas poured out for a while in those fuel rails/lines.  Do we think it's bogging because the fuel lines are not fully primed yet?  Also when doing this intake job you have to pull the distributor.  We marked our lines on the distributor cap as the rotor was pointing at one, we tried to seat it back down after the gasket job but the female key down in the distributor hole that goes to the oil pump? must have moved slightly.  Stuck a screwdriver down there to align properly and the distributor went EXACTLY slotted in the same place it was before.

It just makes me nervous if it's the gas needing primed or taking time to get to all locations, that I could damage a rod or something waiting for gas to arrive (if that might be the issue).  Should I turn key accessory to on and prime with throttle? would that even work to prime the lines and rule that out?

I have no codes in the engine FYI.

 

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oldjeep

If I were to guess, I'd say that you installed the distributor 180 degrees out. Or your plug wires are on the wrong cylinders

 

have you followed the engine timing procedures to check it?

Edited by oldjeep

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hawaiianstyln

I will tonight but I will say this, after everything was back and oil/filter was changed, spark plugs and wires on, I just went and turned key to accessory for 2 seconds and then cranked the engine.  There is no way it had time to get air out of lines and gas fully  primed as much as gas that came out of those lines right?  How long do I let it bog or can I turn key to accessory and throttle 100% fwd to get it to prime the lines without starting?  I don't think I can throw a rod or anything by letting this go for about 20 seconds?  I only tried it twice for 3-4 seconds each and quit.

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hawaiianstyln

I did have fogging oil in the spark holes while it was laid up.  Last spring when I started it with fogging oil it was similar but seconds it started going back up to proper idle rpms

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oldjeep

Doesn't sound like lack of fuel, but if you think that is it then just bleed the fuel rail via the Schrader valve.

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hawaiianstyln

yah I just went thru the motions again and if it was fuel related it wouldn't start back up everytime.  I let it go for a while maybe 20 seconds twice and before each of those tests I turned accessory on and throttle 100% in hopes to prime.  Must be timing

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oldjeep

Not even sure you can set the timing on a 2008 without diacom.  I know that on my 2012 that is the way it needs to be done.

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hawaiianstyln

oh lovely!  Well I was going to buy it anyways.  I have the timing notch on the pulley so why wouldn't I be able to.  I have never had to time an engine so that might be a stupid question.

 

 

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Falko

Maybe a leak on the intake manifold and sucking air.

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hawaiianstyln
11 minutes ago, Falko said:

Maybe a leak on the intake manifold and sucking air.

boy I hope not, we did that job exactly like indmar and others have told us to, including following the manual on that job

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Falko

Well, I do hope it's just air in the lines. Purge them and see if that helps. Keeping my fingers crossed for you.

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hawaiianstyln

how do I purge the lines again?  Am I missing a bleed valve somewhere on the gas lines?

 

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Ndawg12

Fuel rail, port side, near where your oil drain hose should clipped.

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hawaiianstyln

thanks will check that, drain and report back.  Not sure how long it takes to flood the lines again.  maybe two passes at the key accessory on?

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Ndawg12

Not sure if this applies or helps...I can also email you the whole PDF if interested.

 

5mppW9y.png

 

uOa7ov4.png

 

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hawaiianstyln
1 minute ago, Ndawg12 said:

I can also email you the whole PDF if interested.

It certainly helps because now I have to tackle out a possible timing issue and never done one before.  [email protected]

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hawaiianstyln

hmmm I might have that pdf from bakes site.  What is that one called

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Ndawg12
13 minutes ago, hawaiianstyln said:

hmmm I might have that pdf from bakes site.  What is that one called

It's on the way, I broke out the distributor installation and timing in a seperate PDF and included the whole technician manual as well.  

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hawaiianstyln
3 minutes ago, Ndawg12 said:

It's on the way, I broke out the distributor installation and timing in a seperate PDF and included the whole technician manual as well.  

thanks buddy!  if I could send virtual beers!... :)

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hawaiianstyln
2 hours ago, oldjeep said:

Not even sure you can set the timing on a 2008 without diacom.  I know that on my 2012 that is the way it needs to be done.

@oldjeep I think you are right, found this in an indmar timing manual

 

High Voltage Switch (HVS) Distributor Systems

1. Distributor Adjustment on 5.7L & 383 w/ HVS Distributor & MEFI 5, 5A, 5B ECM

1. Start the Engine

2. Connect Diacom and establish communication with the ECM

3. Raise the Engine speed to 1200 RPM

4. Turn the Distributor to adjust the Cam Angle to 705o ±5o

5. Tighten down distributor hold down clamp

6. Shut Down then Restart the Engine, then Raise Engine speed to 1200 RPM and Verify distributor

adjustment

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hawaiianstyln

stupid question tho, why do I have to re-time it.  If I dropped the distributor wrong then simply re-drop it in proper place and this should fix it?

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justgary

I didn't see where you match marked the distributor to the block.  That's the only way to get the timing back where it was.  Matching to the cap doesn't do that. 

And you can prime the fuel rail by repeating key on- key off many times since the pump will run for two seconds every time you key on.  The regulator will let it prime without monkeying with the Schrader valve. 

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oldjeep
2 hours ago, hawaiianstyln said:

stupid question tho, why do I have to re-time it.  If I dropped the distributor wrong then simply re-drop it in proper place and this should fix it?

No offense, but is this the first time you have worked on an engine?  The fact that you had to reindex the oil pump drive says that you didn't put the distributor back where it was originally. 

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oldjeep
1 hour ago, justgary said:

I didn't see where you match marked the distributor to the block.  That's the only way to get the timing back where it was.  Matching to the cap doesn't do that. 

And you can prime the fuel rail by repeating key on- key off many times since the pump will run for two seconds every time you key on.  The regulator will let it prime without monkeying with the Schrader valve. 

Re key doesnt purge unless you fire the injectors or open the purge valve.  That is why any good fuel pressure guage has a purge hose and valve.  Although with just the running he did in the video the lines should be purged. 

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BoatFlyRide

Sounds EXACTLY like the problem I had after doing the heads on my Black Scorpion. Timing was way, way, way off but it would idle in the manner you describe.

 

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