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hawaiianstyln

Engine Bogging - new issue after intake gaskets/exhaust manifolds

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hawaiianstyln
19 minutes ago, BoatFlyRide said:

Sounds EXACTLY like the problem I had after doing the heads on my Black Scorpion. Timing was way, way, way off but it would idle in the manner you describe.

 

How did you recorrect

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hawaiianstyln
40 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

No offense, but is this the first time you have worked on an engine?

No offense taken i know a little but im not one to let someone else do something before i try myself and if i break it trying im not learning

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oldjeep
9 minutes ago, hawaiianstyln said:

No offense taken i know a little but im not one to let someone else do something before i try myself and if i break it trying im not learning

Follow the procedure in the manual that was posted to get the distributor in the correct location.  The fact that you had to reindex the oil pump shaft  says that you are likely at least a tooth off on the drive gear. 

Edited by oldjeep

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oldjeep

Also, might want to put a vacuum guage on the engine to check for the leak suggested earlier.  Propane works pretty good for that too as long as you are in a ventilated area. 

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ahopkinsVTX

@hawaiianstyln I give you credit for taking this project/repair on. Not many would. And I’ve enjoyed following your threads even though I haven’t been able to contribute as it’s nice to see someone on here giving it a shot and learning something knew over arguing about it a wave has enough push or someone asking if their dealer is trying to rip them off over $120 oil change. Hopefully you get this resolved quickly and easily.  :thumbup:

Edited by ahopkinsVTX

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hawaiianstyln
11 minutes ago, ahopkinsVTX said:

@hawaiianstyln I give you credit for taking this project/repair on. Not many would. And I’ve enjoyed following your threads even though I haven’t been able to contribute as it’s nice to see someone on here giving it a shot and learning something knew over arguing about it a wave has enough push or someone asking if their dealer is trying to rip them off over $120 oil change. Hopefully you get this resolved quickly and easily.  :thumbup:

Thanks buddy, i may be a computer guy (cyber Security & Forensics) but in my job trained by military and some 3 letter agencies im paid to dig deep, troubleshoot, not give up until you find how they hacked in or how much p*** someone looked at on their work computer LOL!! (Reverse Engineer everything)

im a fighter and my thought on this is that i did my own intake gasket job and bought and installed to proper torque two new ETX CAT manifolds.  Those were $2k alone.  I figure if it was at the dealer for all this my bill would be up to $3,500+.   

I think @oldjeep is correct and so does my buddy mechanic that helped me, we think we are a tooth off

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justgary
16 hours ago, oldjeep said:

Re key doesnt purge unless you fire the injectors or open the purge valve.  That is why any good fuel pressure guage has a purge hose and valve.  Although with just the running he did in the video the lines should be purged. 

Sure it does.  The air will compress until it overcomes the spring in the regulator, at which point it gets sent back to the tank.  Works best if you rekey immediately, but it is even better if you energize the pump directly with 12v.

The purge valve on your gauge is there to dump the pressure in the gauge so you don't spray yourself with fuel when you disconnect it.  It does work great to help purge the fuel rail, and it does it faster, but it is not a requirement. 

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oldjeep
13 minutes ago, justgary said:

Sure it does.  The air will compress until it overcomes the spring in the regulator, at which point it gets sent back to the tank.  Works best if you rekey immediately, but it is even better if you energize the pump directly with 12v.

The purge valve on your gauge is there to dump the pressure in the gauge so you don't spray yourself with fuel when you disconnect it.  It does work great to help purge the fuel rail, and it does it faster, but it is not a requirement. 

Interesting, never tried to purge a fuel injected motor that way.  Carbs are self purging, my experience with fuel injected systems is that they tend to air lock if you don't manually purge them most of the way at the rail. Not to mention the fuel pumps overheat when run in air. 

Edited by oldjeep

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oldjeep

Awesome! Always funny tgat they will even start like that, but I've done it myself. 

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hawaiianstyln
24 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Awesome! Always funny tgat they will even start like that, but I've done it myself. 

What i have enjoyed is how much i learned especially from my mistakes along the way, it broadened my knowledge on how it runs when something isnt reinstalled properly again.  

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Chaabo

Good job!

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hawaiianstyln

The only thing that bothers me is that once i started engine there were aluminum tiny tiny metal shavings on the ground coming out with the water in the beginning. Looked exactly like when you drill a hole or two in aluminum.  Not a lot but about 1/16th handful.  Thinking about this the only think i could think of is that since these are new risers they are shavings from when they drilled all the needed holes after building the risers.  Its the cooling system so what else could it be its obviously not from internal engine.  Thats the only thing i can think it is.

the shavings did stop coming out after about 5 minutes of flow.  Not sure who makes those risers but once i find out i might call them to see if they water test these which would push out the junk they could introduce  

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