Ceramic Pro Coatings - Are They Worth IT?

[Slayer]

On 3/22/2020 at 1:02 PM, BlitzedVLX said:

I recently purchased a 2018 22 vlx. It only has 30 hours but the previous owners seemed to neglect it a bit. I don't see any damages to the paint other than what appears to be some slight bumper rub and some rub where the nose hits the trailer stop. I did use goo gone to remove all the warning decals and registration numbers.

 

Based on @ibelonginprison recommendations I purchased menzerna 400 and jescar power lock plus sealant.

I have the porter Cable polisher with lake county pads. 

I don't mind putting in the work for it to come out the best. Should I go over it first with the menzerna and then a coat of the jescar? Or should I only apply the jescar? 

I plan to give it a power wash with foam Canon chemical guys soap first. 

On both of my boats, using the same porter cable you have, I used a wool pad for the menzerna 400 after a really good wash.  After that I did 2 coats of jescar using the foam pads and the finished product was pretty amazing compared to my previous routine.  I didn't do the IPA treatment like @jjackkrash advised.  

[BlitzedVLX]

2 minutes ago, Slayer said:

On both of my boats, using the same porter cable you have, I used a wool pad for the menzerna 400 after a really good wash.  After that I did 2 coats of jescar using the foam pads and the finished product was pretty amazing compared to my previous routine.  I didn't do the IPA treatment like @jjackkrash advised.  

 

What wool pad are you using? I have a 5" backing place and  lake county 5.5" pads but I cant find a wool pad in a 5.5". 

I was thinking using lake county orange pad for the 400 and then either white, green or blue pad on the Jescar sealant.. not really sure which would be best. 

Since the Menzerna 400 leaves behind an oily residue using the IPA before sealant is suggested from what i read. 

[Slayer]

4 minutes ago, BlitzedVLX said:

 

What wool pad are you using? I have a 5" backing place and  lake county 5.5" pads but I cant find a wool pad in a 5.5". 

I was thinking using lake county orange pad for the 400 and then either white, green or blue pad on the Jescar sealant.. not really sure which would be best. 

Since the Menzerna 400 leaves behind an oily residue using the IPA before sealant is suggested from what i read. 

I don't recall what wool pad it is.  I used the white for jescar.  

[jjackkrash]

2 hours ago, BlitzedVLX said:

Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher is what we have.  

So your saying apply menzerna 400 using a medium or course wool pad?

Then apply a second coat of menzerna 400 using a course or medium foam pad? 

Then wipe down with an IPA

Then apply 1-2 coats of Jescar?

I use all Rupes products, and I am not that familiar with Menzerna, but gel takes more work to correct than paint generally, so if you need to correct, I'd use the 400 and a medium or course wool pad; then follow up with a less course or fine polish and a medium or fine foam pad.  

https://detailingconnect.com/products/menzerna-400-2500-3500-32oz-pack?variant=12472554455157&currency=USD&utm_campaign=gs-2020-03-13&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=CjwKCAjwvOHzBRBoEiwA48i6AhLXPUb_K60WLhr1vwEzojVmcD-pmcHS5Sb2kpzvmBoc6bdVDcgMZxoC1qQQAvD_BwE

Then wipe with an IPA (this gets the oils from the polish out of the gel and promotes sealant binding)

Then 1 to 2 coats of whatever sealant you are using.  

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 23, 2020 by jjackkrash

[jjackkrash]

Also note, with gel, you don't necessarily have to do the second step fine polish (you can get good results with a compound and an orbital) but a fine polish second step really makes it pop.  

[Cole2001]

46 minutes ago, jjackkrash said:

Also note, with gel, you don't necessarily have to do the second step fine polish (you can get good results with a compound and an orbital) but a fine polish second step really makes it pop.  

I find with the Menzerna it does a really good job of cutting the hard things but also leaving a shine like the fine polish you mention. Used an equivalent 3m as it was all I had and the results weren't nearly as good. 

Im about to order some products to use in the spring and I'm still on the fence if I should stick with my sealant and jump on the ceramic train. Just not sold on how it will hold up sitting in the water, as the sealant has been nothing but great it's hard to switch. 

[jjackkrash]

Autogeek has a lot of products including some ceramic/coating products 50% off for six more hours.  I got some spray on and marine coating products.  

 

https://www.autogeek.net

[Slurpee]

Its a bit of an old thread. But I’ll revive it since we got a new 25LSV back in April.  I finally got a couple slow days to polish it up and put on a ceramic coat. I really needed to get this done because I have the factory cover still and it gets a lot of sun.

I used the Marine Nano Shop product again. It’s nice and affordable with a decent work time before cure. And the manufacturer is very responsive via Facebook with questions and tips.

 Since the boat was new it only needed a single finishing polish with their SiO2 polish after a detox wash with Chemical Guys Clean Slate. That’s so much better than all the wet sanding I did on the last boat.

It took a whole bottle of Pro HD to do two coats of the outside. But not the hull base. I’ve got to wait till it’s on a trailer again. I did a third coat above the rub rail based on experience with the cover chaffing in the wind over the years. 

 An observation. It’s hard to see the material apply and sweat (after the volatile gas off) on an all metallic flake boat. Pay attention to your work areas! And use lights or glare to monitor your progress. 

 But wow it pops now! Sadly it’s stuck on the lift for a few days while it cures. 

[UWSkier]

I did a full strip of my boat followed by a coat of Chemical Guys Hydroslick back in March.  Got to test it for the first time last week.  Cleanup/wipedown was super easy and the boat looks spotless.  Put it on the driver's only windscreen section too to see how it worked against the other panels for water sluffing and road grit cleanup.  Bugs wiped right off.

If you go this route, be careful to not over-apply or you'll work your butt off getting it all off.  Ask me how I know.  Even with a machine it was a pain to buff off where I put it down too thick.  A little goes a very long way.

[jjackkrash]

19 minutes ago, UWSkier said:

If you go this route, be careful to not over-apply or you'll work your butt off getting it all off.  Ask me how I know.  Even with a machine it was a pain to buff off where I put it down too thick.  A little goes a very long way.

I have found on my cars with ceramic coatings that I really have to look hard for high spots from different angles and in different lights and preferably with a second set of eyes on each panel as you go and then again when you are done with the whole car.  And then hand buff the whole thing again just for good measure.  Once this stuff kicks and sets for a while, it is very tough to buff off any high spots you missed.  

Edited July 20, 2020 by jjackkrash

[Slurpee]

17 hours ago, jjackkrash said:

I have found on my cars with ceramic coatings that I really have to look hard for high spots from different angles and in different lights and preferably with a second set of eyes on each panel as you go and then again when you are done with the whole car.  And then hand buff the whole thing again just for good measure.  Once this stuff kicks and sets for a while, it is very tough to buff off any high spots you missed.  

Truth. I’ve gotten to where I’ll wrap a plush towel on a soft RO pad and run that over everything after a hand polish. 

[MystiikVLX]

On 7/17/2020 at 7:59 PM, Slurpee said:

Its a bit of an old thread. But I’ll revive it since we got a new 25LSV back in April.  I finally got a couple slow days to polish it up and put on a ceramic coat. I really needed to get this done because I have the factory cover still and it gets a lot of sun.

I used the Marine Nano Shop product again. It’s nice and affordable with a decent work time before cure. And the manufacturer is very responsive via Facebook with questions and tips.

 Since the boat was new it only needed a single finishing polish with their SiO2 polish after a detox wash with Chemical Guys Clean Slate. That’s so much better than all the wet sanding I did on the last boat.

It took a whole bottle of Pro HD to do two coats of the outside. But not the hull base. I’ve got to wait till it’s on a trailer again. I did a third coat above the rub rail based on experience with the cover chaffing in the wind over the years. 

 An observation. It’s hard to see the material apply and sweat (after the volatile gas off) on an all metallic flake boat. Pay attention to your work areas! And use lights or glare to monitor your progress. 

 But wow it pops now! Sadly it’s stuck on the lift for a few days while it cures. 

Old post but curious your review of this product. Any thoughts you could share? Would you do it again?  thanks

[Slurpee]

26 minutes ago, MystiikVLX said:

Old post but curious your review of this product. Any thoughts you could share? Would you do it again?  thanks

Yes. It’s great. I did do it again on my new boat. And did my SeaDoos when I refurbished them.  Very little maintenance. Just a little touch up every couple years. 

[Cole2001]

I ceramic coated my new fuel wheels and have driven over a handful of mountain passes over the last month and the wheels are spotless with just a rinse off. 
 

Will do the truck in the spring just need to do some prep work first. Looking at trying out Avalon king. 

[MystiikVLX]

19 minutes ago, Slurpee said:

Yes. It’s great. I did do it again on my new boat. And did my SeaDoos when I refurbished them.  Very little maintenance. Just a little touch up every couple years. 

Do you still use things like Hot Sauce to clean up or do something else to wipe down after a day on the water?

 

[MystiikVLX]

A local automative detailer that does some boats described how he applies ceramic to boat but I noticed he said they apply from water line up? Why would he say that? Is he wrong? Why wouldn't you apply to entire gelcoat including bottom of boat?  thanks

[Cole2001]

15 minutes ago, MystiikVLX said:

A local automative detailer that does some boats described how he applies ceramic to boat but I noticed he said they apply from water line up? Why would he say that? Is he wrong? Why wouldn't you apply to entire gelcoat including bottom of boat?  thanks

Only reason I can think of is cost and the customer not being picky about the bottom. Water line and sides are the most important part for water spots and preventing scum build up. 

[Slurpee]

29 minutes ago, MystiikVLX said:

Do you still use things like Hot Sauce to clean up or do something else to wipe down after a day on the water?

 

Definitely not. I hose it off with water and after it runs off I use a towel. There is an SiO2 spray on maintenance I use every 4-5 outings. Looks like fresh wax every time. I also have it on my stand up paddle boards, surf boards, tower speakers, and wake boards. 

I still use hot sauce on the random internal bits gel coat inside the cabin. 

[Slurpee]

42 minutes ago, Cole2001 said:

Only reason I can think of is cost and the customer not being picky about the bottom. Water line and sides are the most important part for water spots and preventing scum build up. 

Yes. It’s a chore to do below the waterline. And easily consumes the most material. And is the most work to get a used boat polished and prepped. It also wears the fastest and would probably need to be redone a year or so before the rest of the boat. 

[MystiikVLX]

How do you maintain the coating? Do you just wet and wipe down? or is it better to soap and wash off then dry to prolong ceramic?

Is there a special detailer spray you use?

I've been researching but most just describe how to apply but do not explain how best to maintain it.

[Hemmy]

On 12/25/2020 at 1:53 PM, MystiikVLX said:

Do you still use things like Hot Sauce to clean up or do something else to wipe down after a day on the water?

 

I have Ceramic Pro and I still use Hot Sauce. I was told it is ok to use.  The ceramic coating won’t prevent water spots.  I also had my inside done. Vinyl sauce is ok to use but they told me to avoid the conditioning sauce.  The Ceramic Pro is well worth it IMO.

[jjackkrash]

Gliss over the coating will help with water spots:

https://www.carpro-us.com/protection/carpro-gliss-version-2-30ml-kit/

Ech20 for spray cleaner/refresher:  

https://www.autogeek.net/carpro-ech20.html?productid=carpro-ech20&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSEs&utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&utm_campaign=CSE&utm_campaign=1504990722&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=287205172222&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_qD_BRDiARIsANjZ2LD7a_Yn3-TpRUUPjjbEekwlm13__hIs_Fsx30VvMbR-ZWbZU3pqTs0aAv8HEALw_wcB

 

 

[MystiikVLX]

So if you had to summarize,

would you say the ceramic coating makes its easier to clean/maintain your boat? on daily basis

the coating lasts longer vs wax or sealant so you don't have to reapply as often? How long does ceramic last before being reapplied?

ceramic looks better?

[Slurpee]

The ceramic coating eliminates oxidation from UV. That’s my main reason as the boat is outside year round. It makes it very easy to wipe down after using. I’d say the cleanup process is about 1/4 the time. Also it keeps the hull below the water line much much cleaner and makes it easier to polish it up since I do that less often. That’s my second most important reason.

A ceramic coating is a wearable item. The more it’s in the water the faster it’ll wear. My 2016 had it applied in 2017 I think and in 2020 when I sold it I was just beginning to think about doing below the water line and where the cover rubs in the wind. 

I used Marine Nano Coat. It’s DIY. High quality. Affordable. Lots of support if you need it. For maintenance I’ll use their SiO2 maintenance spray once every 3-4 trips. It’s called “Activate”. It does a good job of filling in the small bits of wear you can’t see yet. A little goes a long way. 

I do get some water spots on surfaces that are horizontal or near it. Like the top of the rub rail, gunnels, etc. A little of their MineralX spray cleans it up like new. Especially the metal parts. 

As for vinyl I did that the first time this spring on my SeaDoo seats as a test. They’re staying much cleaner this year. Spider poop and other normal stains are way easier To wipe off. YMMV. 

[MystiikVLX]

HOw long does a well done ceramic coating last? Our boating season is about 4 months. Boat sits in covered dock when not in use.

thanks and appreciate all the great input.