25LSV G4 tower rewire for rev10s

[CJAY]

So we are thinking about trading up to a 25lsv with a G4 tower, but it has rev8s on it, and I would put my rev10s instead.  I'm probably going to power them with syn-dx4s and would need to change the wiring from parallel to direct on each speaker.  I know a while back someone had done this on here, but I can't find he thread, and I'm very unfamiliar with the G4. I also will need some help figuring out adding the syn-dx4s to the new dsp system.   Anyone have a link to how to do this or an adapter?

For now I'm going to leave the inboats as is, but will probably rewire them and the sub and change the amps next winter if I don't like them as is.  Didn't really get to hear them due to the batteries being dead when we looked at the boat

[MLA]

1 hour ago, CJAY said:

I also will need some help figuring out adding the syn-dx4s to the new dsp system.

The only thing DSP, is the remaining amps. Everything pre-amp is traditional with proprietary plugs. 

More then undoing the parallel connection, id want to upgrade the wire gauge given the step up in amp wattage. 

[CJAY]

23 minutes ago, MLA said:

The only thing DSP, is the remaining amps. Everything pre-amp is traditional with proprietary plugs. 

More then undoing the parallel connection, id want to upgrade the wire gauge given the step up in amp wattage. 

Yeah I’d go 12 gauge on the speaker wire, like I did in my vlx.  I know you can take off the side panels on the g4, just wondering if trying to get 4 sets of 12 gauge wire through the tower and Hull is difficult.

Is there an adapter for the proprietary plugs?

Edited April 1, 2018 by CJAY

[CJAY]

I’m also thinking about changing the other amps around on what they run

[MLA]

Yes, running eight 12ga up one side is going to be a challenge. I do not know of an aftermarket production plug with pigtail RCAs. 

Id consider re-purposing the Syn-DX2DSP to the woofer, leaving the Syn-DX6DSP to drive only the in-boats.  

Edited April 1, 2018 by MLA

[CJAY]

53 minutes ago, MLA said:

Yes, running eight 12ga up one side is going to be a challenge. I do not know of an aftermarket production plug with pigtail RCAs. 

Id consider re-purposing the Syn-DX2DSP to the woofer, leaving the Syn-DX6DSP to drive only the in-boats.  

That was my thought too.  Though I’m worried about their programming.  Buddy of mine, who used to sell tiges and does a ton of installs, says scrap the amps all around and do it from scratch due to the tuning on them.  I’ll probably do that over the winter and re wire the in boats with 12 gauge too.

What wetsounds sub is the sub, and is it free air from the factory?

 how are people  getting around the no rca issues to add amps?

 

Edited April 1, 2018 by CJAY

[MLA]

Like any other amp, they will need re-tuned if you change the speaker configuration. With the scenario above, yes, both amps would need a new tune. I would not ditch the amp unless A) their available wattage does not fit the build goal or B) the number of chnls available does not fit the build. 

Heck, the Syn-DX6 can drive 2 pair of 6.5 and two pair of 8 perfectly. Or 3 pair of either. Its can dive a pair of Rev-10 (so one less Syn-DX4 you need to get) and 2 pair of in-boats. The Syn-2DX is perfect wattage for the Revo-12HP. 

Woofer is the Revo-12HP and its in a proper enclosure in all the boats except like one of the small models, like a VTX or response maybe?

Just have to find the correct signal wires in the connector, and convert them to RCA plugs. Signal is the same as it is from any other head unit. 

[CJAY]

8 minutes ago, MLA said:

Like any other amp, they will need re-tuned if you change the speaker configuration. With the scenario above, yes, both amps would need a new tune. I would not ditch the amp unless A) their available wattage does not fit the build goal or B) the number of chnls available does not fit the build. 

Heck, the Syn-DX6 can drive 2 pair of 6.5 and two pair of 8 perfectly. Or 3 pair of either. Its can dive a pair of Rev-10 (so one less Syn-DX4 you need to get) and 2 pair of in-boats. The Syn-2DX is perfect wattage for the Revo-12HP. 

Woofer is the Revo-12HP and its in a proper enclosure in all the boats except like one of the small models, like a VTX or response maybe?

Just have to find the correct signal wires in the connector, and convert them to RCA plugs. Signal is the same as it is from any other head unit. 

Aren’t they computer tuned and don’t have gains dials?  How would you tune them?  In my vlx I have an sd 6 running my 4 808s and 2 6.5s perfectly.  The syn-dx2 looks like it could do the sub pretty well too.

do you splice the connectors? I haven’t done an install since the vlx in 2015, and this wasn’t an issue then

Edited April 1, 2018 by CJAY

[MLA]

Yes, the tune is done via computer then loaded in. but the amps are still tune-able like any other amp, just more options. 

Well, you have to basically bypass the factory amp connector or find the male mate and terminals. But yes, likely some splicing involved as the factory harness plugs directly into the OEM amps.  

[CJAY]

1 hour ago, MLA said:

Yes, the tune is done via computer then loaded in. but the amps are still tune-able like any other amp, just more options. 

Well, you have to basically bypass the factory amp connector or find the male mate and terminals. But yes, likely some splicing involved as the factory harness plugs directly into the OEM amps.  

Do you need a program to do it, does wetsounds have that?

Splicing is where I get nervous 

[A22tim]

I ordered the G4 on my 22VLX that I just got and ordered without tower speakers and amp because I was able to get them cheaper than the factory ones. The install wasn’t to bad but you have to take a lot of bolts out though to expose the wiring. I can see where getting 4 sets of 12 gauge would be pretty hard since the hole isn’t very big. I ran 2 18 gauge rgb wires and had trouble getting them to fit on the starboard side. I picked up the Rockford fosgate rca pigtail and made it pretty easy to splice into the factory wiring. 

[CJAY]

1 hour ago, A22tim said:

I ordered the G4 on my 22VLX that I just got and ordered without tower speakers and amp because I was able to get them cheaper than the factory ones. The install wasn’t to bad but you have to take a lot of bolts out though to expose the wiring. I can see where getting 4 sets of 12 gauge would be pretty hard since the hole isn’t very big. I ran 2 18 gauge rgb wires and had trouble getting them to fit on the starboard side. I picked up the Rockford fosgate rca pigtail and made it pretty easy to splice into the factory wiring. 

Love what you did led wise on your vlx!

i imagine the tower being tough with 12 gauge.  I want to also run some led wires too.

where did you order your rf pigtail?

[A22tim]

CJAY, I picked up the RF pigtail on Amazon, generally look there first because with prime I get it in 2 days.  I can send some pics of the connections on the factory amp.  I have seen some people buy the connector and then pin it together, but I just went ahead and cut it off and spliced in the wires.  The factory cable is a little funny though when you start taking it apart as it is a 3 wire cable with a shielding.  The shielding is one of the negatives for port or starboard. I can post the wiring pic when I get home and can use my phone.  I ran the RGB cables down the Starboard side because my controller is on that side. search for any of these words Rockford Fosgate RFI2SW Adapter cable from Speaker wires to RCA plug

Edited April 2, 2018 by A22tim

[CJAY]

13 minutes ago, A22tim said:

CJAY, I picked up the RF pigtail on Amazon, generally look there first because with prime I get it in 2 days.  I can send some pics of the connections on the factory amp.  I have seen some people buy the connector and then pin it together, but I just went ahead and cut it off and spliced in the wires.  The factory cable is a little funny though when you start taking it apart as it is a 3 wire cable with a shielding.  The shielding is one of the negatives for port or starboard. I can post the wiring pic when I get home and can use my phone.  I ran the RGB cables down the Starboard side because my controller is on that side.

That'd be awesome I appreciate it.  I'm only seeing normal rca cables when I search amazon for rf pigtail

Edited April 2, 2018 by CJAY

[COOP]

The tower is actually not that bad to work on. However, be aware that when the side plate is removed that the upper part of the tower is no longer sandwiched into place. I put temporary bolts (the three upper arrows) in to stay safe while working on it. Also, the wires are run through a snakeskin that compresses when the tower is lowered to help keep the wires pulled snug and in place. Be sure and reattached it with the clamps (the two lower arrows). Im not sure if 4 runs of 12awg speaker wire will fit through the opening in the gunnel. 

[CJAY]

43 minutes ago, COOP said:

The tower is actually not that bad to work on. However, be aware that when the side plate is removed that the upper part of the tower is no longer sandwiched into place. I put temporary bolts (the three upper arrows) in to stay safe while working on it. Also, the wires are run through a snakeskin that compresses when the tower is lowered to help keep the wires pulled snug and in place. Be sure and reattached it with the clamps (the two lower arrows). Im not sure if 4 runs of 12awg speaker wire will fit through the opening in the gunnel. 

Really appreciate the pics, and advice, that will help a ton

[A22tim]

CJAY here is the plug here. So if you were to cut it off and splice in the rca cables splice the first channel into the left/port side into the white positive cable and the shielding which they have heat shrink on it from the factory. The 2nd channel right/starboard side will go to the red positive cable and the black cable is 2nd channel negative  the blue wire will just get extended for the power turn on.  You’ll need to run 4 gauge wires for power

[A22tim]

I cut mine off enough so that if I wanted to splice it back I had enough cable to do it

[CJAY]

15 hours ago, A22tim said:

I cut mine off enough so that if I wanted to splice it back I had enough cable to do it

Thank you so much, this is perfect.  I was over thinking the whole changing to RCAs thing.  This looks easy

[IXFE]

@CJAY

Call Exile. They have an adaptor that will plug into the factory wiring for your tower amp. It basically has the factory plug on one end and rca and remote wires on the other end. 

I think I was the first to pull apart the G4 back in 2015. Maybe search for my thread (not sure if the pics survived the photobucket deal). Anyway, you’re gonna struggle to get another run of speaker wire in their. It’s very right the entire run and you’d have to cut the existing wire out of the sheath that surrounds it and is also attached to the inside channel of the tower. I punted and ended up rewriring the top of the tower from parallel to series. That way I could run an amp to each pair of speakers. 

Let me see if I can find those old pics

[IXFE]

Also, the torque spec on all those tower bolts is 35 lbs.   keep that in mind for when you put it back together 

[COOP]

7 hours ago, IXFE said:

Also, the torque spec on all those tower bolts is 35 lbs.   keep that in mind for when you put it back together 

The torque spec on some of the bolts has changed. 

[P6Expert]

Thanks for posting Service Advisory on G4 Tower Noise Correction as my G4 squeaks like crazy!!

[lonestar]

I would not recommend red thread locker for those bolts. Blue would be better. Red requires heat to remove. Don't think you want to be torching  your tower to remove (assuming you may need to remove one day).

[CJAY]

20 hours ago, IXFE said:

@CJAY

Call Exile. They have an adaptor that will plug into the factory wiring for your tower amp. It basically has the factory plug on one end and rca and remote wires on the other end. 

I think I was the first to pull apart the G4 back in 2015. Maybe search for my thread (not sure if the pics survived the photobucket deal). Anyway, you’re gonna struggle to get another run of speaker wire in their. It’s very right the entire run and you’d have to cut the existing wire out of the sheath that surrounds it and is also attached to the inside channel of the tower. I punted and ended up rewriring the top of the tower from parallel to series. That way I could run an amp to each pair of speakers. 

Let me see if I can find those old pics

Awesome, I’ll reach out to exile tomorrow.  I do think it was you, I remember it was when I got my vlx.

i may run them in series if I find it too hard also