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AXIS Stereos


Cboom12

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59 minutes ago, MLA said:

@onewake09

The HTX-2 would be a great choice to power 2 pair of in-boats. Thats a ton of power for the XS-65i, but manageable. When you are ready to add that 3rd pair and woofer, pick up an HTX-6 for the in-boats and re-purpose the HTX-2 for the 4 ohm Rev-12FA. 

Is this how I'd wire the inboats? 

IMG_0365.JPG

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14 minutes ago, onewake09 said:

Its junk. Just get an mc1!!! It was the first thing i hated when i first took my 17’ a20 out. 

Does the MC1 sync with your surfgate alarm?

Edited by alpensurf23
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@onewake09 thats a big deal for our crew, I could care less about the auto volume that also comes with syncing. I feel like being held hostage by the head unit in regards to surfgate alarm. We have ordered bluetooth wet sounds master volume knob that will go to amps. 

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1 hour ago, alpensurf23 said:

Working on installing a volume knob for 2018 A24 audio system, can't believe the chose a head unit without.. Come on Man!!!!:dontknow:

I don't understand the big fuss with no volume knob. I think it's fine with how it is. I also haven't had the luxury of having a volume knob so I can't really attest to that side of the argument at all. 

I like the head unit with the little time I have spent with it. I don't know alot about this stuff but for a new boat owner coming from a 2001. It is awesome!

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27 minutes ago, alpensurf23 said:

But no volume knob on head unit..

Not sure I follow. Im sure the head unit has a means to turn up and down the volume. How its done might be a different topic then whether it has dual zone volume control or not. Manual states it has dual zone volume control and sub gain control and 3 sets of RCA pre-outs. 

Whether it works any good? Dunno. Is it easy to access? Dunno. Is there dial or a rocker? Looks like a rocker. 

 

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6 minutes ago, COOP said:

The new source units use hard to push rubber buttons. They suck. Knob is so much nicer.

AMEN! Knob so much more convenient. Only thing I currently miss out of my '15 23LSV but not for long. Will post picks once Wet Sounds B/T Volume Knob comes in.

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Wont argue there  @COOP  just speaking to the comment about axis choosing a head unit without zone volume. How user friendly it is, is certainly a valid, all be it separate, topic. The Kicker KMC-20 used in the 2016 Axis, is real easy to access and use the zone control. The Wet Sounds MC-1 is just as easy, but you get 2 more zones.  

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20 minutes ago, COOP said:

The new source units use hard to push rubber buttons. They suck. Knob is so much nicer.

I see what your saying! The rubber buttons are definitely more difficult to push than it would be to spin a knob. Not really an issue for me personally. I do understand how someone could be less than satisfied if their previous boat had a knob that they liked. 

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I wouldn’t say the volume controls suck b/c they are buttons not a knob. Instead of pushing the button a bunch of times when a rider falls I just hit the mute button then hit it again when the rider gets back up..... Yes a knob is much easier but so is the mute button....

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3 minutes ago, CBray4 said:

I see what your saying! The rubber buttons are definitely more difficult to push than it would be to spin a knob. Not really an issue for me personally. I do understand how someone could be less than satisfied if their previous boat had a knob that they liked. 

Just wait my friend you will see what we mean. TapTapTapTap will get old soon enough. A flick of the wrist is where its at.

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5 minutes ago, Agman said:

I wouldn’t say the volume controls suck b/c they are buttons not a knob. Instead of pushing the button a bunch of times when a rider falls I just hit the mute button then hit it again when the rider gets back up..... Yes a knob is much easier but so is the mute button....

We did that when demoing but that can be rough on the crew in the boat when music cranking when hit mute. Hit it again and bam!!! The topic states Axis Stereos....:whistle:

Edited by alpensurf23
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3 hours ago, alpensurf23 said:

@onewake09 thats a big deal for our crew, I could care less about the auto volume that also comes with syncing. I feel like being held hostage by the head unit in regards to surfgate alarm. We have ordered bluetooth wet sounds master volume knob that will go to amps. 

Who cares about that alarm , you know that paddle is out and it retracts anyway at speed after the initial deployment. That part wouldn’t Change so alarm is irrelevant 

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30 minutes ago, granddaddy55 said:

Who cares about that alarm , you know that paddle is out and it retracts anyway at speed after the initial deployment. That part wouldn’t Change so alarm is irrelevant 

Hes talking about the surfgate transfer beeps. I think it beeps 3 times through the tower speaker so guys can time the transfer. 

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6 hours ago, MLA said:

@granddaddy55

The WS-220BT suggestion, is over the WS-420BT and desire for 4 zone volume mentioned in the previous post, as an add-on to an existing traditional head unit. Now, If I recall correctly, your 2014 would have the Sony CDX-H910-UI marine head unit. That was an excellent head unit for its time. Hated to see sony retire it, rather then revise it. None the less, It works well with a number of universal blue tooth receivers, if blue tooth was all that one needed/lacked in their system. Even if all they needed was 2-zone volume, id consider keeping the 910-UI and adding the blue tooth and a single 2-zone controller. 

If one wants 2 or more zone control, blue tooth and doesnt need or want traditional head unit functions, then you can go with something like the WS-220BT or WS-420BT. You could locate where the existing head is, or keep the head unit and just add the 220/420 inline for blue tooth and volume control. Could even go with the 420SQ and WW-BTUR. 

if you a very clean, all-in-1 BT and volume and still wanted USB and tuner, then the new MC-1 is the ticket! The volume controls are very quick to access and easy to use. You can use all 4, or disable the ones you dont need. 

A Syn-2 was a solid amp. Al though its a bit light for a pair of Rev-10, its not a bad setup. The Syn-2 can run a 4 ohm woofer or 1 or 2 pair of in-boats. im not opposed to multiple amps, but you have to consider space needed and the extra time and cabling involved to install extra amp, when there might be single amp that could do the job of 2 or 3 of those amp. 

Just want to make sure you knew, it does not take 4 amps to get the 4 volume zones. Theres a number amp options that could do it without under powering any speakers. 

Besides the Syn-2 being a little lite for a pair of Rev-10, 3 Syn-2 for the in-boat setup would be rocking: 750W rms to a 12" woofer in a ported enclosure and roughly 190-200W rms to 3 pair of Revo-6.  

Can An HTX-6 or Syn-DX6 run towers and  4 cabins and bow adequately as 3 zones.  I assume if it could I could use the syn2 to cheaply rock the woofer or relieve the above amps of bow zone and run bow and woofer on syn 2, snd then the An HTX-6 or Syn-DX6 for towers and cabin  as 2 zones ?

or do I really need two of the better amps ?

then do I save initially on revo6 cabins using the 4 alpines for now and only buy the bow as REVO6 with the white grills that closely resemble the alpines? I could go with the nicer wetsounds grills and mismatch for now snd match later when cabins are upgraded.  

If a syn 2 can still be a part of my 2amp setup, then I start with that purchase cause I can afford that now and it’s on sale for 250

if I need two higher level amps I  may have to Wait on starting my staged purchases 

if I buy the syn2 now , I can amplify my current 4 cabins with it using current HU 

 

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6 hours ago, MLA said:

@granddaddy55

The WS-220BT suggestion, is over the WS-420BT and desire for 4 zone volume mentioned in the previous post, as an add-on to an existing traditional head unit. Now, If I recall correctly, your 2014 would have the Sony CDX-H910-UI marine head unit. That was an excellent head unit for its time. Hated to see sony retire it, rather then revise it. None the less, It works well with a number of universal blue tooth receivers, if blue tooth was all that one needed/lacked in their system. Even if all they needed was 2-zone volume, id consider keeping the 910-UI and adding the blue tooth and a single 2-zone controller. 

If one wants 2 or more zone control, blue tooth and doesnt need or want traditional head unit functions, then you can go with something like the WS-220BT or WS-420BT. You could locate where the existing head is, or keep the head unit and just add the 220/420 inline for blue tooth and volume control. Could even go with the 420SQ and WW-BTUR. 

if you a very clean, all-in-1 BT and volume and still wanted USB and tuner, then the new MC-1 is the ticket! The volume controls are very quick to access and easy to use. You can use all 4, or disable the ones you dont need. 

A Syn-2 was a solid amp. Al though its a bit light for a pair of Rev-10, its not a bad setup. The Syn-2 can run a 4 ohm woofer or 1 or 2 pair of in-boats. im not opposed to multiple amps, but you have to consider space needed and the extra time and cabling involved to install extra amp, when there might be single amp that could do the job of 2 or 3 of those amp. 

Just want to make sure you knew, it does not take 4 amps to get the 4 volume zones. Theres a number amp options that could do it without under powering any speakers. 

Besides the Syn-2 being a little lite for a pair of Rev-10, 3 Syn-2 for the in-boat setup would be rocking: 750W rms to a 12" woofer in a ported enclosure and roughly 190-200W rms to 3 pair of Revo-6.  

Can An HTX-6 or Syn-DX6 run towers and  4 cabins and bow adequately as 3 zones.  I assume if it could I could use the syn2 to cheaply rock the woofer or relieve the above amps of bow zone and run bow and woofer on syn 2, snd then the An HTX-6 or Syn-DX6 for towers and cabin  as 2 zones ?

or do I really need two of the better amps ?

then do I save initially on revo6 cabins using the 4 alpines for now and only buy the bow as REVO6 with the white grills that closely resemble the alpines? I could go with the nicer wetsounds grills and mismatch for now snd match later when cabins are upgraded.  

If a syn 2 can still be a part of my 2amp setup, then I start with that purchase cause I can afford that now and it’s on sale for 250

if I need two higher level amps I  may have to Wait on starting my staged purchases 

if I buy the syn2 now , I can amplify my current 4 cabins with it using current HU 

 

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17 minutes ago, onewake09 said:

Hes talking about the surfgate transfer beeps. I think it beeps 3 times through the tower speaker so guys can time the transfer. 

Oh I thought it was the alarm , @ConnollyCrew said his tuner programed that signal into his 2017 when he did stereo delete, call his tuner hook up computer for him and let him remote in

surfed transfers in his 18 with the warning beeps with me using surfband and that was really cool but that one had sp3 from factory 

Edited by granddaddy55
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24 minutes ago, granddaddy55 said:

adequately

Thats the million dollar word. Both those, can technically drive that number of speaker and give you 3 zone volume. However, you are going to still be cutting a Rev-10 short of their potential. Short term to get a decent setup started, then wait for the toy funds to recover, its not a bad route to take. Both amps could be used to power 3 pair of in-boats and woofer later, still in a 3 zone configuration. The difference is HTX-6 would be a mild woofer setup @ 300W and the Syn-DX6 would be a more moderate woofer setup @ 600W. 

Both amps could be set to a 2-zone setup and drive a pair of tower speakers and one or two pair of in-boats. The HTX6 would be 300W to each rev-10 and 75W for 4 in-boats. The DX6 would be 400W for each rev-10 and 150W for each of 4 in-boats.  

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Time to save then, been patient 4 years , I guess one more won’t matter as we haven’t even discussed the cabling 

do you guys buy the wet sounds cables snd connections as well or some other brand of good quality to save that? 

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16 hours ago, granddaddy55 said:

Who cares about that alarm , you know that paddle is out and it retracts anyway at speed after the initial deployment. That part wouldn’t Change so alarm is irrelevant 

@granddaddy55 must have missed happy hour last night. Simmer down now... Like @onewake09 was correct in stating, I was referring to the Transfer aspect to the surrogate alarm. If the head unit is unable to sync, we won't hear it. When was the last time you were on Frenchmen St in the Quarter? I highly recommend DBA's happy hour followed by music therapy session with Dr. Walter Wolfman Washington. I know you ain't far from the Big Easy :whistle:.

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