$1K budget..what can I get?

[RedWakesetterVLX]

On 11/11/2017 at 0:14 PM, MLA said:

#1,3 and 5 i see woofer impedance to amp conflicts. Hopefully the support at creativeaudio or whoever, can set you straight before clicking "checkout". 

#1,2 and 5. Since you're making a significant upgrade to the system, no good reason to leave the bow pair on the head unit. Make the little extra investment in a 5 of 6 chnl amp so you can drive all 3 pair of in-boats and a woofer. 

Go with the Wet Sounds HTX-6 like noted in option #3 or the Kicker KXMA800.5 Either amp will drive 3 pair of in-boats and a woofer. In #5 you mention the Kicker KXMA800.8 8 chnl. Great amp, but you wont need 8 chnl to drive 3 pair of in-boats and a woofer. Go with the 5 chnl KXMA800.5. Same wattage to the in-boats as the 8 chnl but 2X the woofer wattage and its smaller investment. 

Pass on an IB or AF woofer, your boat wont support it I dont think. Your helm foot wall is likely open at the top. In the wet sounds camp, go with the SS-10B instead of the 10FA in a small sealed enclosure. The SS-10B will perform better in a small enclosure compared to the 10FA. However, I would seriously consider a 12". Within the same woofer series, there is typically a small difference in price and the enclosure sizes are super close to each other. Hard to beat a Kicker CompVR 12 4 ohm DVC on a KXMA800.5 and a 1.0 ft3 sealed enclosure. 

Based on experience, id put Kicker's marine component build quality well above mid-grade. Do not hesitate to go with Wet Sounds or Kicker for longevity. Their components are built from the ground up as marine components. No car audio components converted or carried over to marine by putting an "M" on the model number. No paper cones, magnates are enclosure, composite baskets (not steel), stainless hardware, UV inhibitors, synthetic spiders (not cotton bases) just to name a few qualities to compare to others. Heck, even Kicker's automotive woofer lines have some great marine grade qualities about them. Absolutely no hesitation to use them in boats.   

Thanks for the info!  Very helpful. 

[RedWakesetterVLX]

On 11/11/2017 at 7:59 AM, robtr8 said:

You don't NEED marine rated.  It doesn't hurt but it does add a layer of cost and restricts your choices.

On the other hand, the sub enclosure does need to be made of something super stiff and water resistant.  I prefer MDO or sealed Baltic Birch.

You can't use paper cone drivers but you can use most modern material coned drivers, assuming you regularly use your boat cover.

Pay attention to the box volumes needed for the "free air" subs.  These are really designed for infinite baffle applications.  You might not be able to build a box with enough volume that will fit under the dash.  Too small a box volume will suck.  Guaranteed.

I prefer a dedicated sub channel over bridging two channels of a multi channel amp.  #1) Two channels bridged can't do 2 Ohms.  #2) You get more power, more filter controls and a sub knob with a dedicated sub channel.  I know installers do it all the time.  Doesn't mean it's right.

Have you listened to some buddies installs you like?  Pulled up on a really nice system out on the water?  "What you got in there?" is almost always well received.  Good way to define what your goals are.

 

Additional thought:  There's never enough mid bass, as far as I'm concerned.  Take this opportunity to put in larger driver in-boats, if they'll fit.  Enlarging the holes but that's no biggy but sometimes there's other restrictions.

I appreciate the advice.  My thought with the marine grade was longevity.  The current system now is pieced together leftover car stuff.  Amp is corroded, cheap sub box got wet and swelled up with mold.  

As tempting as it is to get out of control with amazing system it is just not in the cards right now. 

[RedWakesetterVLX]

Thanks to all the advice given Ive decided to go with an all Kicker marine setup.  

KXMA800.5 for 6 Kicker KM65 inboats and 12" Kicker sub.

KXMA400.4 for the KMS67 tower setup.  

Keeping the stock head unit w/ Bluetooth adapter for now.  Kicker Zone controller. 

 

Install question:

Going to run 0/1 gauge OFC copper (no CCA) from the battery to a fused distro block and the 4 gauge to both amps in the observers seat compartment area.  

My battery is located in rear starboard locker.  What path do you guys recommend I run the power and ground wires? Should I run them under the floor above the gas tank into the middle ski locker then into observers seat storage area?  This would be the most direct path.  Or should I run them under the seats, across the Vdrive above the floor on the port side tucked away and secured where the seat frame meets the floor? 

 

 

Edited November 22, 2017 by Cazan

[robtr8]

Just a couple notes:

 Use “tinned” OFC like Stinger HPM.  That’s the one nod to it being a “marine” environment that will make a difference down the road.

Also,  make sure you fuse the 0/1 within 6” of the battery.

Do you have a dual battery setup?  If not, it’s a good time to do that.

[minnmarker]

3 hours ago, Cazan said:

Thanks to all the advice given Ive decided to go with an all Kicker marine setup.  

KXMA800.5 for 6 Kicker KM65 inboats and 12" Kicker sub.

KXMA400.4 for the KMS67 tower setup. 

The KXMA400.4 seems more than adequate for 2 tower speakers - but 6.5 inchers on the tower?  The KXMA800.5 is a bit light at 200 watts for the sub.  You'll want more Bass - and some room to spare on the in-boat speakers.  Expensive too for your $1000 budget unless you're getting a real good deal.

Agree with the tinned wire and two batteries comment. 

[MLA]

14 minutes ago, minnmarker said:

The KXMA800.5 is a bit light at 200 watts for the sub

400W rms into a 2 ohm load. 

[malibuskier2003]

I'm late to the party (sorry about that) but I'll offer this if it helps.  I have the RF amps that came out of my 2016 23 LSV that you can have for shipping costs if you want them.  They're sitting in a box in my garage and have never been used outside of factory testing.  Let me know if you want them....

Dave

 

[soonerbilly]

What amps are they Malibu I'll give you some money for them......about to trade in my sons car and it has all JL amps. Was looking on craigslist for some cheap ones to put in it for the trade. Let me know what you got...I'm VERY interested.

[hunter77ah]

1 hour ago, malibuskier2003 said:

I'm late to the party (sorry about that) but I'll offer this if it helps.  I have the RF amps that came out of my 2016 23 LSV that you can have for shipping costs if you want them.  They're sitting in a box in my garage and have never been used outside of factory testing.  Let me know if you want them....

Dave

 

 

46 minutes ago, soonerbilly said:

What amps are they Malibu I'll give you some money for them......about to trade in my sons car and it has all JL amps. Was looking on craigslist for some cheap ones to put in it for the trade. Let me know what you got...I'm VERY interested.

If @soonerbilly doesn't take them, please let me know.  I've been looking for one.  Thanks! 

[malibuskier2003]

1 hour ago, soonerbilly said:

What amps are they Malibu I'll give you some money for them......about to trade in my sons car and it has all JL amps. Was looking on craigslist for some cheap ones to put in it for the trade. Let me know what you got...I'm VERY interested.

They are the Rockford Fosgate amps that come in the base stereo package.  I'll have to go look at them because they have sat in a box for a year and a half.

Dave

[soonerbilly]

Ok let me know what you want for them.