2017 23lsv Prop Damaged Loading on Trailer

[RyanB]

19 minutes ago, TallRedRider said:

What I mean is that you should back down to the edge of the water, disconnect the boat, then back the rest of the way in.  Sometimes I think those pictures of boats laying on the boat ramp happened when someone was backing down and stopped suddenly before they reached the water, and off slid the boat.  I do not wait to be in the water to disconnect, but I put the back of the trailer only a few feet on the ramp.  

We were in line to launch last year when I heard a terrible noise.  An old tri-hull ended up on the ramp, sliding off the trailer.  Me, and about 4 other guys pushed/pulled/winched it back up on the trailer.  I'd never want that to happen to my boat.

That said, I have never seen a boat with bunks end up on the ramp.  Always a roller trailer.  As hard as we have to crank (or power load) to get the boat onto the trailer in the water, I really can't imagine it coming all the way off the trailer on dry land.  But maybe I am wrong.

[23LSVOwner]

Another thread about Malibu "screwing up" turned to an oops, my fault.

 

 

Imagine that.....

[oldjeep]

12 hours ago, RyanB said:

We were in line to launch last year when I heard a terrible noise.  An old tri-hull ended up on the ramp, sliding off the trailer.  Me, and about 4 other guys pushed/pulled/winched it back up on the trailer.  I'd never want that to happen to my boat.

That said, I have never seen a boat with bunks end up on the ramp.  Always a roller trailer.  As hard as we have to crank (or power load) to get the boat onto the trailer in the water, I really can't imagine it coming all the way off the trailer on dry land.  But maybe I am wrong.

My inlaws dumped a brand new Mariah Shabah on the ramp years ago.  He had always disconnected the bow strap on other boats without issue.  Backing down he had to stop and it slid right off the bunks and onto the ramp.

Strap doesn't get disconnected until boat is floating and engine is running for us.  No real point to doing it earlier unless your feet are made of sugar;)

Edited June 29, 2017 by oldjeep

[Workman]

Sorry for the newb question, but when you all are talking about removing the strap before backing down the ramp...are you referring to the straps at the back of the boat, or the bow strap?  I always remove the straps at the back but leave the chain and bow strap attached until I'm in the water.  In reading this thread, I too am guilty of power loading, and will definitely try the method described above.  This past trip to the lake, I was backed in too deep and over-shot the bow roller, tore it, and ended up with a $1000 bow repair as a result.  My challenge, as I'm sure is everyone's challenge, is getting the thing centered at low speeds with a cross-current.  I have a 247 LSV and when loading onto the trailer at the dock near my house...my back end protrudes further out than the dock causing my rear end to move right (Also the direction bu's want to travel naturally in reverse).  It's also difficult to hit the ramp at an angle due to the way the dock is situated.  Needless to say, after a few beers...it's always "fun" loading.  I'm always up for suggestions on how to properly load this thing!

[twitchee2]

I usually get the boat in the water, start it and then climb to the bow to disconnect the the strap.  If I let go of the winch handle, the boat will slip into the water and cause the winch to free wheel as the boat rolls off the bow roller. I've learned 3 things: 1. it really hurts when that winch handle hits your arm and could potentially break a limb if you get stuck in a wrong situation. 2. If i do not control the boat it will roll off the bow roller, slam the nose into the "V" bunks on the front of the trailer and chip of a piece of the rub rail. 3. It is a whole 5 seconds longer winch the boat down. I winch in down in a controlled manner and at that point the boat is completely floating separate from the trailer. Then I simple click in in reverse and back off. Piece of cake!

When I am loading, I will drive it on and just get it between the posts and most of the way on.  Then I just hop off the front, have everyone at the back and winch it the last 2 ft. It has worked well for me.

[ConnollyCrew]

I have power loaded my boats more times than not over that past two seasons with no issues. Trailer depth is the most important issue here IMHO.

[ChainSetter]

Am In the only guy who's wife will have no part of trailer loading and unloading? I get that all to my self. I always winch on never power. No point in my eyes

[Gavin17]

On 6/27/2017 at 9:55 PM, shadetreefab said:

We float on and off and are some of the quickest at are ramp.

Us too. Wanna race?  

We also do it a couple times per week and try different ramps and different lakes frequently.  Practice makes perfect. One ramp we regularly use is not steep at all so we need a bit of a bump to launch and a little power to get in winch range. 

I spray my bunks with silicone every few outings. It helps on the shallow ramp.  

[shadetreefab]

7 minutes ago, Gavin17 said:

Us too. Wanna race?  

We also do it a couple times per week and try different ramps and different lakes frequently.  Practice makes perfect. One ramp we regularly use is not steep at all so we need a bit of a bump to launch and a little power to get in winch range. 

I spray my bunks with silicone every few outings. It helps on the shallow ramp.  

I'm down! It's always fun when you get the "look" from the "dock pros" when your in and out quick and there on the third attempt.

Edited August 16, 2017 by shadetreefab

[Gavin17]

11 hours ago, Workman said:

Sorry for the newb question, but when you all are talking about removing the strap before backing down the ramp...are you referring to the straps at the back of the boat, or the bow strap?  I always remove the straps at the back but leave the chain and bow strap attached until I'm in the water.  In reading this thread, I too am guilty of power loading, and will definitely try the method described above.  This past trip to the lake, I was backed in too deep and over-shot the bow roller, tore it, and ended up with a $1000 bow repair as a result.  My challenge, as I'm sure is everyone's challenge, is getting the thing centered at low speeds with a cross-current.  I have a 247 LSV and when loading onto the trailer at the dock near my house...my back end protrudes further out than the dock causing my rear end to move right (Also the direction bu's want to travel naturally in reverse).  It's also difficult to hit the ramp at an angle due to the way the dock is situated.  Needless to say, after a few beers...it's always "fun" loading.  I'm always up for suggestions on how to properly load this thing!

When launching I start the blower and install plug and unhook everything but the bow strap and chain then back most of the way down.  Wife starts boat then I unhook bow strap and push her off if it's steep or on the shallow ramp I hop in the truck and bump her off by rolling back another 1 or 2 feet and hitting the brakes. 

Loading

Figure out your proper trailer depth and repeat every time. Every boat and trailer will be a bit different.  For my trailer on a shallow ramp it's when my bunks are just barely 100% covered.  For a steeper ramp I need about 5" of bunk sticking out of the water.  If you find you need alot of exposed bunk it's a good idea to back too far and wet the bunks then pull up to proper depth. I think the proper depth is when the boat contacts the bunks before the prop is in the trailer. Then you'll need power or winch to get the boat the rest of the way on.  This way the boat can center itself while the prop is still clear. 

 

My wife is more comfortable with the boat than the trailer so Here is what we do. 

I put the trailer to the proper depth.  And get about 3' of strap ready.  

Wife drives straight. If the current or wind throw her off I taught her to reconize that early, spin the boat around and just try again. It doesn't happen often but it's easy to pivot an inboard. I prefer a do over way more than trying to salvage a less than perfect line.  We had a do over a few weeks ago in the wind and we're still way faster than the joker next to us trying to yell at his wife over the Baja exhaust. 

She idles forward and sometimes needs a little extra speed in windy conditions.  

When the bow is at the guide poles she goes to neutral.  Her tendancy was to go slower and go to neutral earlier but that lead to looking perfect then getting blown off line at the last moment. Remember forward throttle gives inboards rudder athority.  For our boat going to neutral at the poles works well.

The boat contacts the bunks then we wait a couple of seconds for it to settle. If it's in winch range I hook it and pull her in. If not I do the come here hand motion and she uses just a bit of throttle to get to winch range. As soon as she hears me hook it she shuts it off.  We're usually the fastest on the ramp and don't need to talk to load the boat.  She's awesome and we have a lot of practice. 

Edited August 16, 2017 by Gavin17

[Gavin17]

1 hour ago, ChainSetter said:

Am In the only guy who's wife will have no part of trailer loading and unloading? I get that all to my self. I always winch on never power. No point in my eyes

Your not the only guy.  I made sure mine knew what she was doing before we got married.  Could have been a deal breaker.  One guy I ski with has a wife that won't even pull him. I had to scratch my head on that one.  I  was 16 or 17 when I taught my first gf how to pull me on a ski. Granted that wasn't an inboard and wasn't on a busy lake but still.    Driving a car in traffic is way more complicated.

[oldjeep]

9 hours ago, ChainSetter said:

Am In the only guy who's wife will have no part of trailer loading and unloading? I get that all to my self. I always winch on never power. No point in my eyes

My wife has no interest in learning to back the trailer, but is the one who always takes it on and off the trailer.  I put the trailer in to the correct depth, she starts motor then I unhook her and push the boat back a couple feet and it is all hers.  Coming on the trailer gets set a little shallower, she comes in at a moderate clip and hits neutral once she is near trailer.  At that point engine gets shut off and the boat is my problem - typically it comes straight on, couple cranks and it is at the bow stop.  Occasionally it gets crossed up from hitting a guide pole or bunk, I just walk in and adjust it before cranking it up.

Once we (I) damaged a prop on the trailer - it was when I forgot to take off the transom straps.  Bow came up when I released the front strap and backed in further wondering why the boat wouldn't slide back

Edited August 16, 2017 by oldjeep

[Crad]

I once watch my wife for 2 hours back the trailer in the water.  Finally she asked for help.  Now we have a system.  If I can't find a private ramp and I'm willing to pay to use, she pulls the boat on/off the trailer.  We have the couching sessions prior and she is a world class driver, just HATES the ramp area.  She gets it on straight every time.  The ramp is the second place divorces happen in boating.

I will need to check the prop guard on the new BU.  I never had this issue in all my other boats.  the BU trailers are either Boatmate or now homegrown boatmate designs.  I've had two Nautiques sitting on BM trailers.  Never heard/had this issue.

My thoughts are  the trailer too deep in the water allowing the back to wonder while driving on.  Normally I leave the front tip of the fender out of the water about 2-3 inches.  But this can change some by RAMP.  this allows the boat to center and hold center as coming on.  the back cant wonder.  this is the simple version on how to do this and I could detail out more in requested. 

 

Recently I met a guy at the ramp that showed me a different much better way.  We are now not powering the boat on, but floating on.  I've been doing this way a couple years now.  He just walked up to me and said want to learn a better way.  As you can imagine a veteran boater like I consider myself started a little a fended.  Shared a beverage in the lot after.  No more scratches on the hull and the carpet will last longer.  All his reasons made sense.  JUST be careful the ramp is long enough.  His warning.

I saw talk about the winch strap.  We always back down and pull out strapped.  I have never had a boat slide, but have seen it happen.  Normally after the spring wax and a rainy tow.    First the down.  I always loosen the strap 2-3 feet, but make sure the winch is relocked so the strap can't be pull out but the boat.  This stops the winch from coming around on your arm like mentioned.  Even if the boat slide 2-3 feet no biggie.  Once the boat is started/warmed some, we unhook and push out.

How the on.  I always leave 5-6 feet out when I pull the trailer out after the boat is unloaded.  My winch is always locked in the "drive down the road position".  I never leave the winch in the going out position.  Pure safety. 

[Joeprunc]

My trailer won't allow me to load without power loading.  Because of the placement of the bunks and how low my boat sits in comparison to the rubber bow roller, I either have to have the trailer soooo far into the water so that the rubber bow roller is an inch or two above the water line, or power load.

Lucky for me I only have to load on the trailer once to twice a year   

[pauley71]

4 minutes ago, Joeprunc said:

My trailer won't allow me to load without power loading.  Because of the placement of the bunks and how low my boat sits in comparison to the rubber bow roller, I either have to have the trailer soooo far into the water so that the rubber bow roller is an inch or two above the water line, or power load.

Lucky for me I only have to load on the trailer once to twice a year   

That doesn't sound like a trailer problem, it sounds like a ramp angle problem.

[oldjeep]

9 minutes ago, pauley71 said:

That doesn't sound like a trailer problem, it sounds like a ramp angle problem.

it is a trailer problem, my inlaws 04 lxi is the same way.

Edited August 16, 2017 by oldjeep

[twitchee2]

14 minutes ago, Joeprunc said:

My trailer won't allow me to load without power loading.  Because of the placement of the bunks and how low my boat sits in comparison to the rubber bow roller, I either have to have the trailer soooo far into the water so that the rubber bow roller is an inch or two above the water line, or power load.

Lucky for me I only have to load on the trailer once to twice a year   

if you are only doing it a couple times a year, you can also use a much bigger drop hitch to keep the tongue of the trailer as low as possible.  This gets the bow roller close to the water and may work very well for your situation!

[JasonK]

For the prop to hit the prop cage it has to be 2 ft from the bow stop or closer, correct? If your that far forward how can the hull get far enough over without being stopped by the vertical guide poles. The guide poles should be close enough together that it's impossible to hit the cage. I think it's a design flaw. NO way should it be designed to be able to hit the cage.

[SonicVLX]

On 6/26/2017 at 7:38 PM, TallRedRider said:

I don't think I could get my  prop to hit the trailer no matter what I do (nautique G23), as long as it is between the guideposts, unless I frankly try to drive a circle around the guidepost itself, which would mean I am so deep that the bed of the truck is in the water.  I have heard of this on other boats.  I am guessing you were way too deep.  

I have my wife back the trailer in until the bunks are barely under, then I slide up on them.  That still leaves me about 2 feet away from the bow stop and would require some Herculean effort to get the boat all the way forward.  Once I clip the boat, then she backs down some more and I wind her up.  The boat is pretty much always centered, and no risk of hitting the prop cage.  

EDIT: @Fman hit the send button while I was typing!  I was taught this method by the Malibu dealer in Las Vegas, and it has served me very well.  

 

For the last 15 years, owning our Mastercraft, this was our routine!  Wife backs down until half the bunks are under water, then I nudge the bunks, she backs up slowly as I idle forward on to the trailer, then at the end, I needed to give it a little goose to engage the trailer buddy, hear the click and it's on.  After reading all these reviews, I haven't power loaded the Bu once... and have found that I need to get the trailer deep to get it far enough up the trailer to sit on the front bumper right.  I was also afraid since I know this thing drafts much deeper than the Mastercraft... so I'm freaking out about hitting ground too....  I get super paranoid with new things!!!

[afcase]

Great information for us new inboard owners.  Thanks 

[Joeprunc]

On 8/16/2017 at 1:05 PM, twitchee2 said:

if you are only doing it a couple times a year, you can also use a much bigger drop hitch to keep the tongue of the trailer as low as possible.  This gets the bow roller close to the water and may work very well for your situation!

But when I do tow, its usually for a long road trip and I would much rather have the trailer level while towing.

[Joeprunc]

On 8/16/2017 at 0:52 PM, pauley71 said:

That doesn't sound like a trailer problem, it sounds like a ramp angle problem.

Love it ;).  I'll tell the marina to get right on that.

[RyanB]

14 minutes ago, Joeprunc said:

But when I do tow, its usually for a long road trip and I would much rather have the trailer level while towing.

You could always get two draw bars.

Or an adjustable hitch.  I have this one.  Very happy with it.

http://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/B-and-W/BWTS10049B.html

Edited August 21, 2017 by RyanB

[Crad]

You folks are correct.  Trailer "flaw"  I compared my Nautique Boatmate with the 2016 BU trailer.  The BU trailer is a copy of a BM.  That said the BU prop cage is 6-8 inches narrower then the boatmate.  I can see how this can happen.  The water was low this weekend, so I had to power on or the trailer would have dropped off the end of the ramp.  I was very careful in making sure the boat was centered in the rails. 

[Workman]

On 8/15/2017 at 11:54 AM, Workman said:

Sorry for the newb question, but when you all are talking about removing the strap before backing down the ramp...are you referring to the straps at the back of the boat, or the bow strap?  I always remove the straps at the back but leave the chain and bow strap attached until I'm in the water.  In reading this thread, I too am guilty of power loading, and will definitely try the method described above.  This past trip to the lake, I was backed in too deep and over-shot the bow roller, tore it, and ended up with a $1000 bow repair as a result.  My challenge, as I'm sure is everyone's challenge, is getting the thing centered at low speeds with a cross-current.  I have a 247 LSV and when loading onto the trailer at the dock near my house...my back end protrudes further out than the dock causing my rear end to move right (Also the direction bu's want to travel naturally in reverse).  It's also difficult to hit the ramp at an angle due to the way the dock is situated.  Needless to say, after a few beers...it's always "fun" loading.  I'm always up for suggestions on how to properly load this thing!

Update:  After scratching my 2013 247 LSV and messing with loading / unloading for a full year, I replaced the 247 with a 2017 22 VLX and put it in a slip .  Much happier on both fronts now!

All joking aside, the 247 was just too much for my family of 4.  After test driving the 22 VLX and seeing the TREMENDOUS difference in surf wake size and customiz-ability it was an easy decision.  Plus, it's SO much easier to control than the 247.  I'm certainly much happier now in the slip as well, and a big fan of Hydrohoist lifts.  Happy to answer any questions about these, although I see there are lots of posts about them already.  

I appreciate everyone's feedback, it was certainly helpful.  In the times I do need to trailer my boat, I don't power on / off anymore thanks to the suggestions here.  Looking forward to warmer weather, and a fun summer on the lake!

-Workman