Bought my first boat - '94 Echelon LX

[iwam]

Just found this thread, nice work!  The similarity to my Echelon project from 2016 is uncanny:

 

[iwam]

I'm going to steal your idea for supporting the swim platform.

Regarding your sub, I put an 8" behind the driver's footwell since storage is so sparse on these boats. 

[nosnarb]

wiring up the dash has proven to be a challenge.  Turn the ignition key to acc and the needles on the multi gauge spike.  Leave the key off but hit the switch for the blower and the gauge lights come on and the needles spike again.  Same for the anchor lights switch and the interior lights switch.  I marked all of the wires when I pulled them off of the old gauges (oil pressure, fuel, temp and tach all worked) so I dont think I got anything connected incorrectly.  Guess I will have to go back through wire by wire and maybe trace some wires.  

[Woodski]

@nosnarb:  Consider it is Christmas in May, I will PM you a Echelon Ignition Control Panel wiring diagram.    Hope it helps.  I knew there was some reason I save all that paperwork that normally sits in the file cabinet...

[nosnarb]

@Woodski got it!!  Thanks!!!! 

[nosnarb]

I’m struggling with this one.  Double checked my connections to the gauges and all of that is correct.  Like I mentioned in the earlier post I had marked all of the wires for each gauge so it should have been an easy, straightforward swap from the old gauge to the new gauge right?  For the GPS speedo I had to run a lead to the B+ side of the ignition switch so that it gets constant power.  No biggie there.  The only other item that I did was wire the turn on leads for the two amps to the stereo switch on the dash so that the amps and the head unit come on together.  Only thing that I can figure is that I have knocked something loose at the switch / breaker panel ...but would that give me the symptoms I’m having??

[Woodski]

@nosnarb:  Just to put in perspective, I veered away from the 'keep the smoke in the wires' curriculum in college, so take this with a grain of salt.  Given the era of the boat, are you trying to push too many electrons through that system or does it not like a potential parallel path option for electron travel?  As an example, Perfect Pass is much happier when wired direct to the battery.  Stereo switch should be hot all the time, it is on my boat.  I have noticed my ignition switch can be sensitive to screws being tight, since you are in there now that should not be an issue.

[nosnarb]

@woodski If I take the stereo switch out of the loop, i.e. take the red lead off of the switch, I believe that I still get the same result.  Im pretty sure I checked that last night...but it was getting late.  I believe all of the connections to the ignition switch are snug.  

[tvano]

this is a long thread that I'm not going to study but want to add a thought. 

many switches have an integral lamp to indicate that the switch is closed or "on". 

any chance that lamp v switch terminal got mixed in some off your new set-up ?

[nosnarb]

unfortunately the echelon doesn't have any illuminated switches....I appreciate the input nonetheless.....theres got to be something obvious that I am overlooking.  

Signals from the various sending units go to the computron first and then out to the gauges correct?  Is it possible that something has fried in the computron and thats causing the issues?  although I dont think the lighting circuit goes through the computron.   

[tvano]

yank some or all of the computron connectors then test?

[nosnarb]

@tvano yeah thats what i'm thinking.  So my current plan of attack is pull the lead off of the stereo switch and see if that resolves it.  If not, put that lead back on and try to bypass the computron and see if that resolves it.

[nosnarb]

It's been pouring down rain since yesterday afternoon so I haven't had a chance to get back to my electrical / dash issues.  Hopefully I can get back to it this evening.  In the meantime I threw together a diagram of the stereo system that I have installed.  Right now I have the power to the amps coming off of a common bus bar but I think I am going to move that to the common post on the perko switch instead.

[minnmarker]

Looks good but why give the stereo the opportunity to drain both batteries?  Move the stereo + directly to one of the batteries and leave house/starter duty to the other.  Your setup results in lots of amp hours but really no safety against stranding.  Do you thinking now - not while you're listening to tunes with a beer in your hand. 

[nosnarb]

@minnmarker I'm usually pretty good on managing the perko switch.  Our typical scenario is start on 1, run on all, float on 2......unless that is incorrect.  I could always move the power over to the #2 battery.  no biggie there.

[minnmarker]

I thought I was good too - until I wasn't

Now if I leave the stereo on (with the sound turned all the way down or source off/paused) I can still start the boat.

Edited May 3, 2018 by minnmarker
addition

[nosnarb]

@minnmarker  OK OK you've convinced me.

 

[minnmarker]

Look into an ACR.  Just put it between the batteries with the stereo + on its own battery.  No need to change any other wiring.  Simple.  Both charge while engine is on.  Only one drains when floating/listening.  No need for a switch, any switch.  Put the ACR in and forget it.

[nosnarb]

@minnmarker which of these guys should I be looking at?

[formulaben]

The SI series charging relay should work, but if you want a new switch the Add-a-Battery kit includes it and a new master switch that has a "combine" function if you want/need it. 

[minnmarker]

SI.  It's what I have.  I don't have the switch.

[nosnarb]

you guys hitting the Cinco De Mayo a lil early....si si

[minnmarker]

Use the "Quick Install" diagram and put your stereo + cable where they have "accessories."  Leave everything else the same.

It's a good idea to have ALL your stereo + cables going to the same battery to avoid line noise.  Head unit (source) and amplifiers and anything in between.

[nosnarb]

Found a bad ground for the dash wiring.  Ended up removing it and running a new one back to my negative bus above the batteries behind the spotter seat.  Now everything works as it should.  next up is tower speaker install 

[nosnarb]

Oh and I moved my amps over to the “house” battery.   Thanks @minnmarker!