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2017 Fman LSV build - Larson Marine


Fman

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4 hours ago, hethj7 said:

My box just showed up.  Are you going to strip the carpet then spray it?

If the carpet is easily removeable I will probably go that route.  If they glued the carpet on will just spray over it.

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2 hours ago, Fman said:

If the carpet is easily removeable I will probably go that route.  If they glued the carpet on will just spray over it.

I'm not saying this won't work, but it's a little cringe worthy given your usual attention to detail.  I mean if @IXFE can build a box with borrowed tools and whatnot, I'm sure you can too.

I know I know, you live where it's dry, the boat is always garaged, won't see rain, sub will be behind a nice looking kick panel etc etc.

  • Like 3
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Anyone here have any idea how I am supposed to use this 12 volt toggle switch for on/off.  I ordered it from Amazon and it came with zero instructions on a schematic.  It is supposed to be 12 volt, wanted to use it for the stereo on/off button.  About the only thing I can pick out is the ON and LED have no idea what C, NC, A represent.

Any help on this would be appreciated!

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3 hours ago, shawndoggy said:

I'm not saying this won't work, but it's a little cringe worthy given your usual attention to detail.  I mean if @IXFE can build a box with borrowed tools and whatnot, I'm sure you can too.

I know I know, you live where it's dry, the boat is always garaged, won't see rain, sub will be behind a nice looking kick panel etc etc.

Yeah I gotta see what it looks like when it arrives, peeling off carpet is never fun when its glued on.  Would be a last resort spraying over it.  I am 99% sure it would last at least 5 years carpeted and elevated off the floor.  I am really over the "custom" box thing, as long as its a solid build, right dimensions and cu ft. I am totally fine with a cookie cutter.   I never could figure out the "custom" spend 10-12 hours on a box, once that kick panel goes on you never see it again.

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I bet "ON" is actually NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed) and maybe C is "closed" (as in unswitched pass through power?)?

That way the switch could power something in either situation (turn switch on power this, turn switch off power that).

My bet is that power in goes to A, power out goes to NO (switch is normally open, so when "switched" it's closed and connects the circuit), and LED probably goes to ground (you need ground for the LED to light up).  That's just guessing tho.  This is why the good lord made those portable battery jumper boxes and harbor freight test lights, so you can test the configs.

Edited by shawndoggy
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Raise your hand if you don't like climbing around in observer compartments wiring amps!!!! :surprised: aka as the death chamber, ugh my aching back! I am so glad that is over with.... one of the items I dreaded knowing about this stereo install!

Shawn, I think I might have to ditch that toggle switch I do not like the fact it came with zero directions.  I don't even know what the amp rating is on it.  If anyone has a nice looking push button toggle switch link to turn the stereo on/off please post it up! I really dont know what to do about it, looking for a toggle switch that will look somewhat matching to the Malibu dash.  I was able to mount all the amps today, run all wiring, I am two 0 AWG wires and a sub box away from firing the system!  Hopefully next week I can finish it up.:)

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@Fman here's a switch with a wiring harness too: https://www.amazon.com/SupportTM-Symbol-Button-Toggle-Switch/dp/B00ZR7MMXO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1490143844&sr=8-2&keywords=push+button+led+power+switch

They say it's rated for 5A, which is plenty for the amps' remote turn on leads, but if you are double extra paranoid, wire it to a relay, where the switch is just providing enough current to trigger the relay and then the relay turns your accessories on and off.

And here's (allegedly) the link to the wiring diagram (from the Q&A in the product description): 

16mm-12V-Car-Auto-Green-LED-Metal-Switch

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@shawndoggySweet, thanks Shawn I just ordered the one you posted with the adaptor on it... I won't have to solder anything either and should be a little easier to hook up! For less than $8 well worth it....

When in doubt call SD!:thumbup:

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I used the same switch. I ended up re ordering and going with the bigger one so it matched the size of the power switch. On the first one I soldered wires directly to the terminals and used liquid electrical tape stuff. Worked well but was kinda ugly behind the head unit plate. On the second one I used the plug and it was soooo much easier and cleaner. Hope you got the waterproof one. I also made the mistake of getting the wrong switch the first time. I got the horn (attenuators?) type instead of the on/off latching switch so the 8$ switch ended up costing me 35$ by the time I got the right one and then the right size. Well worth it. 

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ahopkins22LSV
8 hours ago, Fman said:

@shawndoggySweet, thanks Shawn I just ordered the one you posted with the adaptor on it... I won't have to solder anything either and should be a little easier to hook up! For less than $8 well worth it....

When in doubt call SD!:thumbup:

Please let me know how it goes! I've been meaning to do the same mod for a few years now so I can just have the stereo on and not the whole dash. Was thinking of mounting the switch in the glove box so the dash remains 100% stock.

And the battery is right there so figured I would just run the constant power right from there but don't know if that would work due to the amount of power the switch can handle. 

Edited by ahopkinsTXi
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22 hours ago, Fman said:

If the carpet is easily removeable I will probably go that route.  If they glued the carpet on will just spray over it.

Beautiful boat Fman!  Question, I have the same boat and I don't see that much room under the helm w/ a heater.  Are you moving the heater tube?  Are you expecting your kickpanel to move out towards your feet?  Are you planning to invert it so it slopes up vs back?

As for the carpet, leave it.  Even if it gets soft, it would take a couple years (or more) .. at that price, just buy another one!  I'm hoping your answers to my questions convince me to buy the same box!  Agree its too cheap to build for that money.  

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26 minutes ago, pauley71 said:

Beautiful boat Fman!  Question, I have the same boat and I don't see that much room under the helm w/ a heater.  Are you moving the heater tube?  Are you expecting your kickpanel to move out towards your feet?  Are you planning to invert it so it slopes up vs back?

As for the carpet, leave it.  Even if it gets soft, it would take a couple years (or more) .. at that price, just buy another one!  I'm hoping your answers to my questions convince me to buy the same box!  Agree its too cheap to build for that money.  

Zactly... I cut down the walkway heater tube almost flush with side wall.  The tube will just free flow into the cavity, did this on prior boats and it works well.  Kick panel will be moving forward approx 2-4".  I have to wait until the box arrives to finalize how much room I will need.  You can also push back the ballast hoses a little and reroute the larger fresh air vent hose.  The sonic box is hatchback style so it will angle down to create some more space at the top.

  • Like 2
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35 minutes ago, Fman said:

Zactly... I cut down the walkway heater tube almost flush with side wall.  The tube will just free flow into the cavity, did this on prior boats and it works well.  Kick panel will be moving forward approx 2-4".  I have to wait until the box arrives to finalize how much room I will need.  You can also push back the ballast hoses a little and reroute the larger fresh air vent hose.  The sonic box is hatchback style so it will angle down to create some more space at the top.

I'm going to take you word for it and order that box also :)  Willing to take the risk.  I didn't realize the slope was on the back, so the sub will be straight up and down.  Got it ... Thanks dude!

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You might have to slightly modify the box, I also elevate it off the floor with 1" rubber spacers to allow airflow under it just incase it ever got wet.  I should have the box by early next week and can give you some better feedback on what is going to be needed to properly fit.  When I used the qbomb box there was some minor shaving on the corner and backside that was required.  I did notice there is a lot of room to play with moving the kick panel forward which is a good thing.

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Here are a few photos of the box.  Appears to be as advertised.  Carpet is glued.  It is all sealed but I may touch up some spots and do around the terminal cup.  That may be sealed from the lip on the cup, but I can't tell for sure   

 

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B38F6EF1-7E45-4E62-89AC-F44D93CE377C_zps97F84D8B-9304-4A4B-9BB7-A96F1710467E_zps

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39 minutes ago, hethj7 said:

Here are a few photos of the box.  Appears to be as advertised.  Carpet is glued.  It is all sealed but I may touch up some spots and do around the terminal cup.  That may be sealed from the lip on the cup, but I can't tell for sure   

 

23DFC9D0-8FC5-487A-AD7F-D6A40561B882_zps

B38F6EF1-7E45-4E62-89AC-F44D93CE377C_zps97F84D8B-9304-4A4B-9BB7-A96F1710467E_zps

That is a good looking box, 3/4" Glued and Stapled is a pretty solid build.  Peeling that carpet will be a nightmare.  If you elevate it off the floor and keep airflow under it more than likely it will last for years to come.  You could also rattle can it with some spray on bedliner which will definitely water proof it from the elements.   Please keep me posted on your install and what you are doing... I won't get my box until Friday and I have to work quite a bit over the next few days.   Hoping maybe Tuesday next week I can finish things up.

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Just a suggestion here. This is the product I use and have several sub boxes out there as well as speaker cabinets for bands. If you're gonna Rhino-Line your boxes, try this. I think you'll be very happy with the product.

DuraTex

 

Great looking boat Fman!

IMG_7138.JPG

  • Like 2
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22 hours ago, shawndoggy said:

I bet "ON" is actually NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed) and maybe C is "closed" (as in unswitched pass through power?)?

That way the switch could power something in either situation (turn switch on power this, turn switch off power that).

My bet is that power in goes to A, power out goes to NO (switch is normally open, so when "switched" it's closed and connects the circuit), and LED probably goes to ground (you need ground for the LED to light up).  That's just guessing tho.  This is why the good lord made those portable battery jumper boxes and harbor freight test lights, so you can test the configs.

C is the mark for the common terminal. 

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I picked up bed liner spray today.  Any thoughts on whether to finish pulling carpet off to spray it vs over the carpet as previously mentioned?  The carpet peels off relatively easy, but there will be lots of glue residue left.  

What did you end up doing @Fman?

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@hethj7I peeled it all off and sprayed it with bedliner spray today.  It's not going to win any awards for best looking box but it's sealed up now and water proofed.  I would recommend using a roll on bedliner material, the spray on stuff is difficult to work with and clogs up quite a bit.  It works but rolling on would be a better application method imo.

I was pleasantly surprised with the sonic 12 box construction, it is a solid build comparable to the q bomb.

Edited by Fman
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All details of your install would be appreciated.  I got mine tore apart and am currently in that "what did I get myself into stage?"  

 

I am am not sure how to modify things to push it back another inch or so to keep a new kick panel behind the fiberglass edge.  

 

E4A4C060-8F2C-4EC9-9FED-4A028F10D9EA_zps

 

 

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