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5 pin 4 pin


williemon

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My boatmate trailer is a 5 pin and my tow vehicle is 4 pin. When i back up, i have to switch the plug around and turn on headlights. How do i make it so backing up works properly?

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I have this too.  Tow vehicle is a '14 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.  I assume there is no easy way to wire up the 5 pin?

OP - there should be a mechanical lock-out that you can use on the trailer, where you put a pin in or something to keep the actuator from moving backwards and engaging the brakes.

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21 minutes ago, Michigan boarder said:

I have this too.  Tow vehicle is a '14 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.  I assume there is no easy way to wire up the 5 pin?

OP - there should be a mechanical lock-out that you can use on the trailer, where you put a pin in or something to keep the actuator from moving backwards and engaging the brakes.

If you have factory tow package with 7-way get a 7-5 adapter.

If all you have is 4 flat you'll have to buy a 5 way vehicle end and run a wire for reverse to either the tail light or the harness on top of the driver's side rear wheel well IIRC. Pull the tail lamp to see the wire color at the reverse light bulb.

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25 minutes ago, Michigan boarder said:

I have this too.  Tow vehicle is a '14 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.  I assume there is no easy way to wire up the 5 pin?

OP - there should be a mechanical lock-out that you can use on the trailer, where you put a pin in or something to keep the actuator from moving backwards and engaging the brakes.

Easiest way would be to put a plug and play 7 pin on the jeep and then use adapters for 5 or 4

Edited by oldjeep
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3 hours ago, jcon44 said:

I wired one up to my truck a few years ago, really didn't take much time at all. Some don't even require any tools.

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47515-Wire-Flat-Adapter/dp/B000CMHVGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475781186&sr=8-1&keywords=trailer+4+pin+to+5+pin+wire+harness+adapter

 

I used this for a bit but then just ordered a flat five and re wired it. I took me maybe 20 minutes on our 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee. 

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6 hours ago, Bill_AirJunky said:

I installed one of these on my trailer because of past experience.  I had a solenoid fail, was able to back up by jamming a bolt in the slide.  But, now I'm ready for the next failure.

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12 minutes ago, MadMan said:

I installed one of these on my trailer because of past experience.  I had a solenoid fail, was able to back up by jamming a bolt in the slide.  But, now I'm ready for the next failure.

I've got one on our trailer as a way to totally lock out the brakes when you have to haul the empty trailer for a long distance or down hills. Other wise my trailer bucks and lurches every time you hit the brakes.

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2 hours ago, oldjeep said:

I've got one on our trailer as a way to totally lock out the brakes when you have to haul the empty trailer for a long distance or down hills. Other wise my trailer bucks and lurches every time you hit the brakes.

Yep, same here. Our local public ramp is a steep hill from the street down to the ramp. So I have to totally lock out the trailer brakes to go down there without the trailer bucking & lurching the whole way. This is an easy install, doesn't cost much & works with any truck with no tools.

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4 minutes ago, Bill_AirJunky said:

Yep, same here. Our local public ramp is a steep hill from the street down to the ramp. So I have to totally lock out the trailer brakes to go down there without the trailer bucking & lurching the whole way. This is an easy install, doesn't cost much & works with any truck with no tools.

Our ramp to parking lot is similar but for ours I find that if I lock the truck in 1st I don't have the problem more than once in a blue moon.  My main reason for adding it was our yearly lake rental trips or my folks lake where the launch can be up to 15 miles away from the place we park the trailer.  Definitely a cheap functional addition and easier to deal with than the lockout key that never wants to stay in without tape or the magnetic ones that you have to remember to bring along.

Edited by oldjeep
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Wait, all you people actually have working surge brakes? I didn't know that was possible...haha. Mine are on my list of "winter projects" this year. How does this lockout-cap work?

I always forget to turn my brake controller off on my car trailer when its empty until I hit the brakes and see clouds of white smoke peeling off my trailer tires.

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1 minute ago, Kmfish87 said:

Wait, all you people actually have working surge brakes? I didn't know that was possible...haha. Mine are on my list of "winter projects" this year. How does this lockout-cap work?

I always forget to turn my brake controller off on my car trailer when its empty until I hit the brakes and see clouds of white smoke peeling off my trailer tires.

Yeah, they work great.  I'm guessing your response trailer has drum brakes.  Best upgrade is to junk it all and replace with disc brakes like the newer trailers have.

 

The lockout cap has some tabs on it that keep the tongue from sliding in when the cap is rotated.  You just remove the plastic MC fill cover and replace it with the lockout cap

Edited by oldjeep
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Just now, oldjeep said:

Yeah, they work great.  I'm guessing your response trailer has drum brakes.  Best upgrade is to junk it all and replace with disc brakes like the newer trailers have.

 

The lockout cap has some tabs on it that keep the tongue from sliding in when the cap is rotated.  You just remove the plastic MC fill cover and replace it with the lockout cap

You would be correct. I have been researching disc brake conversions. I converted my car trailer from surge to electric so I am pretty familiar with trailer brakes. Just not high on the priority list since my 3/4 ton dodge doesn't have a problem stopping the boat. Any suggestions on disc brake conversion companies or suppliers?

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5 minutes ago, Kmfish87 said:

You would be correct. I have been researching disc brake conversions. I converted my car trailer from surge to electric so I am pretty familiar with trailer brakes. Just not high on the priority list since my 3/4 ton dodge doesn't have a problem stopping the boat. Any suggestions on disc brake conversion companies or suppliers?

Biggest suggestion is to avoid tie-down engineering brakes like the plague ;)   UFP is a good one, may or may not have kits.  Kodiak is pretty well thought of and sells complete kits.

Other  alternative would be to convert to electric.  Plenty of big boat trailers have electric brakes and your truck is already set up for them.

Edited by oldjeep
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Yea, in my case my local boat club has a private drive through the lake house neighborhood. Sometimes we get opposing traffic and its a one lane road. If i have to back up any when i meet another head on i have to get out, adjust the 4/5 pin connection then get back in and back up a bit.  

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On 10/7/2016 at 8:21 AM, Kmfish87 said:

Wait, all you people actually have working surge brakes? I didn't know that was possible...haha. Mine are on my list of "winter projects" this year. How does this lockout-cap work?

I always forget to turn my brake controller off on my car trailer when its empty until I hit the brakes and see clouds of white smoke peeling off my trailer tires.

 

 

My surge brakes work fine behind my own truck under most conditions. Occasionally I tow with a tractor or someone else's truck. Or going down steep hills with an empty trailer. For those situations I have the lockout on the trailer tongue. Works every time.

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