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Mid-season amp and tower overhaul


jester3653

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Hello Crew -

Just thought I'd take a moment and share a few pictures of my "let's spend 3 days and 2 nights inside my amp well during the hottest part of the summer" project I decided to do NOT during the winter lay-up.  I feel like I may have lost 10 lbs. in the process.

Rebuilt the amp rack.  3/4" HDPE w/ the matte finish all rounded and routed nicely.  Looks sweet!  Replaced the RF amps with two Wet Sounds Sinister's.  Pulled down the dual pair of Titan II's and replaced with a pair of REV10's.  Required slider bimini mods turned into a fun project that netted me a sweet new pop-rivet gun! :lol:

Anyway, enjoy the pics and if there are any questions, please let me know.  Shout out to Odin @ Earmark, and my good friends the Wall family for the support.

P.S. Add in the classifieds section with the amps and tower speakers for sale if anyone's interested.

Thanks!

Jesse

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Looks great.  I love how clean it looks!  I also love the blocks you mounted at the bottom of the board.  I plan on doing same thing off season and replacing screw mounts with hanger bolts with wing nuts, allowing any future mods to go a bit easier if removing the board is needed.  

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6 hours ago, asp13 said:

Looks good! Do you notice a difference in the sound between the new speakers and amps?

Most certainly!  The REV's on the tower are just crazy awesome.  I had several neighbors pour into the cul-de-sac when I was tuning the gains and WS420 for the tower looking for what all the commotion was.  Not only are they loud, of course, but they are also crips and clear, the mid-bass is amazing.  For the first time on Sunday my son said "Dad I can hear the music great" while he was back on the wakeboard.

The 12" RF sub has even more life now.  I put it in an enclosure over the winter which was a great upgrade just itself.  But the SD6 is pushing the sub much harder now as well and it's noticeable.  The RF 8" and single pair of 6.5" in-boat speakers are similar.  They are getting much more wattage and it really opens them up.

I think the PUNCH amps push everything, AFTER you pull the VOID stickers off and turn the gains up, JUST to the bare levels of RMS.  But the Sinister pushes them well beyond.

Totally worth every sweat drop I shed during the course of the build-out.

5 hours ago, David said:

Jesse,

You've got some skills and some details there. It looks basic which is exactly how super clean installs appear.  

David - thank you!  I can't take all the credit either.  I good friend of mine helped with the creation of the amp rack.  He had built a similar rack a few years ago and had the tools (router) to round over all the edges nicely and route all the channels into the HDPE in a nice and clean manner.  He had all kinds of jigs he built.  It really made that part smooth!  This HDPE stuff, while it makes a GLORIOUS mess when cut, it's sweet stuff!

Sadly, I forgot to take a picture of the back of the rack.  :cry:  All the wire routing, clips, and management I did is even more impressive than the front of the board.  I guess I'll have to pull it out and take a picture for myself sometime.

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2 hours ago, ctvandy23 said:

Looks great.  I love how clean it looks!  I also love the blocks you mounted at the bottom of the board.  I plan on doing same thing off season and replacing screw mounts with hanger bolts with wing nuts, allowing any future mods to go a bit easier if removing the board is needed.  

Thank you!  A tip for you.  My good friend, who helped with the construction and routing of the HDPE board, had an extra set of French Cleats that he had created from HDPE.  The previous amp rack that was stock, leaned back inside and had a screw hole about center of the board and about 2.5" down.  This screw hole permitted like a 2" stainless screw that secured the board to the inside of the boat and prevented it from shifting and flopping away from the wall.  I wanted a totally clean look, and the French Cleat allowed that.  So instead of a visible screw mounting/holding the board to the boat wall, the French Cleat does the same thing but fully invisible.  Now I just lift the rack off the wall and pull it out.  The blocks on the bottom at the base simply keep it from kicking out to the batteries or shifting bow or stern.  

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