Malibu Touch Command Issues

[4skinuts]

I’ve tried a few of the auto-part store spade connectors I have on hand, but they wouldn’t fit into the fuse socket on the board without modification or possible damage to the board. Does anyone know of a particular spade connector that would fit? I agree that would probably be the cleanest way to do it.

[braindamage]

8 hours ago, 4skinuts said:

I’ve tried a few of the auto-part store spade connectors I have on hand, but they wouldn’t fit into the fuse socket on the board without modification or possible damage to the board. Does anyone know of a particular spade connector that would fit? I agree that would probably be the cleanest way to do it.

the male spade connectors that I have are 1/32" or so larger than the fuse blade, so you'll need to file them down.  

Secondly, I'd suggest something like below.  There are 6, 8, 10, or 12 block versions:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07W11JDTF/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07W11JDTF&pd_rd_w=mNYx4&pf_rd_p=48d372c1-f7e1-4b8b-9d02-4bd86f5158c5&pd_rd_wg=yGSPv&pf_rd_r=H6WZT2MKZA11VHGCXXX7&pd_rd_r=b0ce659f-7b43-4de6-a139-d18170009375&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFaQUZLNUlWWElQTkMmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzNDkyNjUzOUk5NlIwSTY3QUlMJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5NjMxMjQxUjNJWk5QU0JWTEZaJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

or this:

https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/hella-splash-proof-fuse-blocks/part-type/fuse-blocks?fr=part-type

and for the switches, you could either have someone 3D Print a plate, or use these...though you'd have to fashion a base for them to mount.  Based on the space, you could put 2 High and 6 across for 12 switches.  They make a blank as well.

https://www.amazon.com/AutoEC-Rocker-Switch-Holder-Housing/dp/B011KIYNR6/ref=sr_1_21?dchild=1&keywords=10+gang+rocker+switch+panel&qid=1587472135&s=automotive&sr=1-21

There may be other pre-made switch gangs, but I didn't see anything that would fit.

I haven't spent alot of time thinking about it, but I think you'd need the following rocker switches:

Blower: SPST On-Off

Bilge: SPST On-Off

Wedge: SPDT Momentary On-Off-On

Run/Anchor: DPDT On-Off-On

Dash Lights: SPST On-Off

Interior Lights: SPST On-Off

I'm open for @justgary or @martinarcher opinions.

Edited April 27, 2020 by braindamage

[4skinuts]

On 4/20/2020 at 2:33 PM, braindamage said:

On 4/25/2020 at 9:42 AM, braindamage said:

I had found that custom marine switch panels could be ordered from the website below:  https://newwiremarine.com/custom-marine-switch-panels/

 

[braindamage]

5 minutes ago, 4skinuts said:

 

Did they give you a quote?

[4skinuts]

I didn’t pursue it that far. There is a design tool (E panel builder) on the site that I think would give you a price; but, I was having trouble with it on my phone. I haven’t tried it on the computer yet. 

[braindamage]

I updated my SW and ran it over the weekend several times with no issues...maybe this was all academic for me (I hope), but hopefully it helps @4skinuts or others...or me if indeed the thing does die.

[martinarcher]

Sounds like you had a pretty good plan on a switch based design.  Hopefully it runs good and you can tuck it away if you ever need it down the road.  

 

I've seen those custom made switch panels.  If I had a boat with a failed unit and needed to fully replace it that's the route I would go.  Make some thing factory looking that replaces the entire unit.

[Eagleboy99]

15 hours ago, braindamage said:

Did they give you a quote?

The semi-custom plate (8x5") costs about 40 bucks in "carbon" then it looks like 30 bucks a switch after that.  That is a really cool site BTW!  Makes me think one could do a fully custom dash for any old Malibu (just have hole cutouts for gauges) 

[4skinuts]

14 hours ago, braindamage said:

Did they give you a quote?

I went back to the website on my computer and designed a carbon fiber panel with a single row of the 5 labeled and backlit switches that I need.  The website quote was $143.

[braindamage]

2 hours ago, 4skinuts said:

I went back to the website on my computer and designed a carbon fiber panel with a single row of the 5 labeled and backlit switches that I need.  The website quote was $143.

if you are only getting 5 switches, I'd add the breaker option.  That would make things alot easier on your part.

[4skinuts]

On 4/27/2020 at 2:47 PM, braindamage said:

if you are only getting 5 switches, I'd add the breaker option.  That would make things alot easier on your part.

@braindamage Doesn’t the circuit already have a breaker?  I’m not following how the breaker option in the switch would make it easier. Could you explain this?

[braindamage]

14 minutes ago, 4skinuts said:

@braindamage Doesn’t the circuit already have a breaker?  I’m not following how the breaker option in the switch would make it easier. Could you explain this?

By powering from the line side of the circuit board, you are going to have to place either individual in-line fuse for each circuit, or buy the breaker option for each circuit.

[justgary]

2 hours ago, braindamage said:

By powering from the line side of the circuit board, you are going to have to place either individual in-line fuse for each circuit, or buy the breaker option for each circuit.

A fuse block and fuses is probably cheaper than buying breakers, but I see your point.  Much more elegant.

[wakeparadise]

Hey Guys,

I bought my 2011 Wakesetter in 2013 from a dealer in Greensborough. When I brought it home to Canada the screen was unresponsive, useless. It would leave me stranded multiple times either at the dock or in the water. After a lot of pushback from Malibu they eventually sent me a new screen free of charge - but it took ALOT of push from me. The screen works fine - except it’s been delaminating for some time now. You would think that such a vast issue would be covered by Medallion.  As far as I see it; it’s a safety issue. If I can’t function certain controls or even start the boat when I’m out on the river heading towards the dam - that’s an issue for me. Is there anyone else out there that would be willing to file a class action on this? 
 

Ryan

[OskiD]

On 5/15/2020 at 9:44 AM, wakeparadise said:

Hey Guys,

I bought my 2011 Wakesetter in 2013 from a dealer in Greensborough. When I brought it home to Canada the screen was unresponsive, useless. It would leave me stranded multiple times either at the dock or in the water. After a lot of pushback from Malibu they eventually sent me a new screen free of charge - but it took ALOT of push from me. The screen works fine - except it’s been delaminating for some time now. You would think that such a vast issue would be covered by Medallion.  As far as I see it; it’s a safety issue. If I can’t function certain controls or even start the boat when I’m out on the river heading towards the dam - that’s an issue for me. Is there anyone else out there that would be willing to file a class action on this? 
 

Ryan

Please check my own post on this topic.  Yes I would be willing to participate in some kind of joint effort.

 

[braindamage]

@4skinuts did you put in the switches? I’d love to see a write up on this one.

[4skinuts]

@braindamage I haven’t ordered a switch panel. I was only performing advanced planning for the day mine fails. It is still working at this point; but, is delaminating on the top and right side.

I did discover a ground block under the dash, where a fairly large black wire is connected to ten smaller gauge black wires. I was able to identify separate ground wires for the blower, navigation light, and anchor light, along with other things that aren’t useful since they already have a switch like the horn, heater, and the blue backlight for the power switch. I’m thinking that wiring the switches for the items controlled by the MTC from this location would not require extra fuses/circuit breakers to be installed. The existing fuse/circuit breaker protection would be used, since this would be wired on the negative side. What are your thoughts on this?  

There were four ground wires that I could not identify. I’m thinking they might be for options that I don’t have such as power wedge, heated seats, and docking lights. 

The interior lights, dash lights, and bilge will have to be wired from the positive side as previously discussed. 
 

ps. Don’t move the ignition fuse to the bypass location. In the bypass location the key will start the engine; but, will not stop it. Also, neither the power button on the dash nor the red battery selector switch will stop the engine. The emergency kill switch does work.  With the ignition fuse in its traditional location, the key will work both to start and stop the engine, even without the MTC connected.

[braindamage]

1 hour ago, 4skinuts said:

@braindamage I haven’t ordered a switch panel. I was only performing advanced planning for the day mine fails. It is still working at this point; but, is delaminating on the top and right side.

I did discover a ground block under the dash, where a fairly large black wire is connected to ten smaller gauge black wires. I was able to identify separate ground wires for the blower, navigation light, and anchor light, along with other things that aren’t useful since they already have a switch like the horn, heater, and the blue backlight for the power switch. I’m thinking that wiring the switches for the items controlled by the MTC from this location would not require extra fuses/circuit breakers to be installed. The existing fuse/circuit breaker protection would be used, since this would be wired on the negative side. What are your thoughts on this?  

There were four ground wires that I could not identify. I’m thinking they might be for options that I don’t have such as power wedge, heated seats, and docking lights. 

The interior lights, dash lights, and bilge will have to be wired from the positive side as previously discussed. 
 

ps. Don’t move the ignition fuse to the bypass location. In the bypass location the key will start the engine; but, will not stop it. Also, neither the power button on the dash nor the red battery selector switch will stop the engine. The emergency kill switch does work.  With the ignition fuse in its traditional location, the key will work both to start and stop the engine, even without the MTC connected.

I’m not sure where you are going with the comments about the ground panel. The ground panel is stand-alone and won’t need any modifications.
The only breaker going to the panel circuit board is the main panel, so that isn’t sufficient. Each circuit will need it own breaker/fuse. One for bilge, one for blower, etc. because you are operating in bypass mode the existing fuses are no longer in the circuit.

It sounds like the ignition switch circuit will remain in the std spot on the panel. Good news. One less thing to think about.

[Laceytorg11]

We have a 2013 VLX with delaminating screen. We took it to the Malibu dealer to fix at the cost of about $2100. They claimed the old screens aren’t being made anymore but the new screen would be fine. They put in the new screen and we took it out to Lake Powell about 2.5 hours away and the surf fare wouldn’t work. They put the old one back in and it worked. Malibu is claiming the new software won’t communicate with the old computer so they now want us to replace the computer. I am so mad! Has anyone heard of anything similar? 

[UWSkier]

6 hours ago, Laceytorg11 said:

We have a 2013 VLX with delaminating screen. We took it to the Malibu dealer to fix at the cost of about $2100. They claimed the old screens aren’t being made anymore but the new screen would be fine. They put in the new screen and we took it out to Lake Powell about 2.5 hours away and the surf fare wouldn’t work. They put the old one back in and it worked. Malibu is claiming the new software won’t communicate with the old computer so they now want us to replace the computer. I am so mad! Has anyone heard of anything similar? 

I believe it's in this thread somewhere, but there's a compatibility matrix of screen firmware and computer firmware.  You need the correct versions to use both.  If the dealership just slapped in a brand new screen without possibly down-revving the firmware on it to match what's in your computer, you may have issues.  Have them do some more research.

[Bu hoo]

I just backed out of making an offer on a '13 VLX because it was starting to delaminate.  Do they ALL delaminate eventually?  I really don't like the idea of replacing a $2,000 part every few years.  It also sounds like it can be difficult to even find the part.

Should I start looking at older boats?  This sounds awful to deal with.

[Eagleboy99]

All?  Probably not, but a significant portion sure seem to!

[UWSkier]

5 hours ago, Bu hoo said:

I just backed out of making an offer on a '13 VLX because it was starting to delaminate.  Do they ALL delaminate eventually?  I really don't like the idea of replacing a $2,000 part every few years.  It also sounds like it can be difficult to even find the part.

Should I start looking at older boats?  This sounds awful to deal with.

Find one with the updated version already replaced 

[dwc032]

6 hours ago, Bu hoo said:

I just backed out of making an offer on a '13 VLX because it was starting to delaminate.  Do they ALL delaminate eventually?  I really don't like the idea of replacing a $2,000 part every few years.  It also sounds like it can be difficult to even find the part.

Should I start looking at older boats?  This sounds awful to deal with.

I am on my second screen.  I have a 13 LSV and the screen was replaced in 2018 then again 2019.  My new one is less than a year old and it is already starting to delaminate. The other screen was delaminating for four years before it went dead.  Hopefully this one lasts four years also...lol. I don't think I would not buy the boat because of the screen. Make the owner pay for it or knock 2500 off.    

[jloven]

I have  a 2013  TXI  and the medallion display screen finally died while I was out on the water. Had to be towed back in. The screen had been delaminating for a couple of years but all the functions still worked. Looking back, there were several times we had to power off and back on (reboot) to get it to turn on correctly. 
I called 8 different dealers yesterday. 2 were not open on Mondays, 1 didn’t have any idea about what screen I was needing even with part numbers, 2 quoted $2200 and 3 weeks delivery, and the last one had it in stock for $3900!  
At that point I went back through old emails and found a personal email for medallion. I explained what I needed with the part number and within an hour I was quoted $1100 for a replacement. Based on all the info in this thread and others, I decided this was the best deal I would find so I bought it. My part number was 6913-00430-01 rev D. The replacement is rev J, so hopefully it will be of a better quality. It will take 2 weeks to make and will be shipped out September 14. 
I like the idea of the switch panel and will definitely go that route if this one fails.