Malibu Touch Command Issues

[ahopkins22LSV]

1 minute ago, braindamage said:

ok cool.  So if I can bypass the MTC to actuate the devices by placing a fuse into the slot next to it, then why can't I install a manual switch in between as a backup?

Yeah, I am sure you could! We put like 650 hours on our TXi and our screen was still 100% functional. I never had to use it, just noticed it one day when I was installing a sub behind the drivers kick panel.

[oldjeep]

6 minutes ago, braindamage said:

great minds think alike.  There must be a reason as I've searched lots of threads and nobody has brought this up as an option.

You would need to make sure you were using switches that are rated for the full load of the fuse, which shouldn't be a big deal.  I am a little surprised that after all these years nobody is making a little panel that fits in place of the touch screen with a bunch of lighted switches.

[oldjeep]

6 minutes ago, ahopkinsVTX said:

Yeah, I am sure you could! We put like 650 hours on our TXi and our screen was still 100% functional. I never had to use it, just noticed it one day when I was installing a sub behind the drivers kick panel.

Mine is still working but was showing signs of delamination around the edges last year, so it is only a matter of time.

[braindamage]

4 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

You would need to make sure you were using switches that are rated for the full load of the fuse, which shouldn't be a big deal.  I am a little surprised that after all these years nobody is making a little panel that fits in place of the touch screen with a bunch of lighted switches.

exactly.  I saw  @martinarcher  had a reply in one of the threads saying that there were too many interdependencies in the circuitry...but if this is the hard-wire spot, what is the reason why it wouldn't work?

I'd just like to have a backup just in case.

Edited April 20, 2020 by braindamage

[oldjeep]

Just now, braindamage said:

exactly.  I saw  @martinarcher  had a reply in one of the threads saying that there were too many interdependencies in the circuitry...but if this is the hard-wire spot, what is the reason why it wouldn't work?

If I had to guess, one issue would be in the ballast system - not an issue in your boat I'd assume.  Since the speed control also controls ballast levels automatically you would loose that function if you were using switches to override the manual ballast controls in the touchscreen.

[braindamage]

26 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

If I had to guess, one issue would be in the ballast system - not an issue in your boat I'd assume.  Since the speed control also controls ballast levels automatically you would loose that function if you were using switches to override the manual ballast controls in the touchscreen.

me don't care.  I just want the bilge, blower, lights, heater, and power wedge (though I never really expect to use it)

where is the circuit breaker panel?  I only see the one by the driver's leg under the dash.

Edited April 20, 2020 by braindamage

[martinarcher]

I guess I need a newer boat so I have a test mule to build some retrofit parts.   

The issue sometimes is you've got modules that communicate with each other via a protocol like CANBus.  If that's the case and the module downstream form the screen that handles the actual outputs to the devices is expecting a CANBus packet to tell it to turn it's outputs on or off you end up having to do do a pile of wiring in order to replace a screen since you need to re-design ALL of the screens functionality.  I've not owned a boat with MTC or I'd be able to help more and/or potentially offer a solution.  

[braindamage]

@dalt1 @AndyP I see you were able to bypass the MTC to control the wedge.  Do you have any pics or descriptions of what you did?  Did you ever try on the bilge, blower, or lights?

Secondly, I don't see my fuse panel when I look under the helm. I may be blind but I would think that a breaker panel would be in a fairly obvious and accessible spot.  Do you know where it is?

[UWSkier]

3 minutes ago, braindamage said:

@dalt1 @AndyP I see you were able to bypass the MTC to control the wedge.  Do you have any pics or descriptions of what you did?  Did you ever try on the bilge, blower, or lights?

Secondly, I don't see my fuse panel when I look under the helm. I may be blind but I would think that a breaker panel would be in a fairly obvious and accessible spot.  Do you know where it is?

Not under the throttle down by the floor anymore?

[justgary]

44 minutes ago, martinarcher said:

I guess I need a newer boat so I have a test mule to build some retrofit parts.   

The issue sometimes is you've got modules that communicate with each other via a protocol like CANBus.  If that's the case and the module downstream form the screen that handles the actual outputs to the devices is expecting a CANBus packet to tell it to turn it's outputs on or off you end up having to do do a pile of wiring in order to replace a screen since you need to re-design ALL of the screens functionality.  I've not owned a boat with MTC or I'd be able to help more and/or potentially offer a solution.  

I would guess that anything you can bypass by moving the fuse is powered by DC and not a CAN bus.  I'm with you, though.  I need a new boat so I can play along!

[ahopkins22LSV]

7 minutes ago, braindamage said:

@dalt1 @AndyP I see you were able to bypass the MTC to control the wedge.  Do you have any pics or descriptions of what you did?  Did you ever try on the bilge, blower, or lights?

Secondly, I don't see my fuse panel when I look under the helm. I may be blind but I would think that a breaker panel would be in a fairly obvious and accessible spot.  Do you know where it is?

It has a black cover on it.

[braindamage]

3 minutes ago, UWSkier said:

Not under the throttle down by the floor anymore?

this one is there, but the manual shows (2) the pic above and this one.

[braindamage]

1 minute ago, justgary said:

I would guess that anything you can bypass by moving the fuse is powered by DC and not a CAN bus.  I'm with you, though.  I need a new boat so I can play along!

@martinarcher ^^this. I can see the can bus in the control circuit, but not the power circuit.  Does anyone have any wiring diagrams?

[martinarcher]

Yep.  Totally agree with you guys.  If you are wiring into the power output side of the module you should be good to go.  Just be sure to remember devices like actuators reverse polarity when they change directions so make sure your new wiring can't cause two relays to run at the same time and cause a short.

[braindamage]

8 minutes ago, martinarcher said:

Yep.  Totally agree with you guys.  If you are wiring into the power output side of the module you should be good to go.  Just be sure to remember devices like actuators reverse polarity when they change directions so make sure your new wiring can't cause two relays to run at the same time and cause a short.

yes.  There also is a separate wedge up and wedge down circuit, so obviously we would need to watch that as well

Edited April 20, 2020 by braindamage

[braindamage]

Alrighty...I’m an idiot. Found the cover and verified that if you place a fuse into the bypass then it turns on whatever is connected...at least it turned on the blower when I did it.
crappy that the manual doesn’t match the reality.

Edited April 20, 2020 by braindamage

[braindamage]

11 minutes ago, martinarcher said:

Yep.  Totally agree with you guys.  If you are wiring into the power output side of the module you should be good to go.  Just be sure to remember devices like actuators reverse polarity when they change directions so make sure your new wiring can't cause two relays to run at the same time and cause a short.

I wonder if you still need a functioning MTC in order for these bypass lines to work?  I'll completely disconnect the MTC and try that out later today.

[justgary]

9 minutes ago, braindamage said:

Alrighty...I’m an idiot. Found the cover and verified that if you place a fuse into the bypass then it turns on whatever is connected...at least it turned on the blower when I did it.
crappy that the manual doesn’t match the reality.

Please post a clear photo of the square IC chips just above the fuses, or maybe just post the writing on them.  You may need side lighting from a flashlight to read them.

You don't need a functional MTC.  You can see where the second fuse takes 12V directly to the output, bypassing the electronic switch ICs.

[justgary]

Just now, justgary said:

Please post a clear photo of the square IC chips just above the fuses, or maybe just post the writing on them.  You may need side lighting from a flashlight to read them.

You don't need a functional MTC.  You can see where the second fuse takes 12V directly to the output, bypassing the electronic switch ICs.

OK, maybe I jumped the gun.  Where do all the red wires come from?  I'm guessing the circuit breaker panel, and direct to 12V on the other side of that.

[martinarcher]

Exactly.  If the red wires feeding those giant PCB traces are powered when the MTC is down you're golden.

 

I'm betting those IC's are CT chips to measure the current of the outputs.  My system uses a similar design.

[braindamage]

Ran down quick between calls. Below is pic of cover. The power also seems to come from MCB.

[oldjeep]

1 hour ago, martinarcher said:

Exactly.  If the red wires feeding those giant PCB traces are powered when the MTC is down you're golden.

 

I'm betting those IC's are CT chips to measure the current of the outputs.  My system uses a similar design.

I'd bet that the giant red power wires are coming from the circuit breaker panel.

[hunter77ah]

I'll admit that I am a noob when it comes to voltage/amperage/etc., but if you can use a fuse to jump it (BTDT with the wedge), why couldn't you hook up a switch between the fuse poles?  I'd probably do an inline fuse with the switch, but I think this idea overall is a great alternative to the MTC.

[oldjeep]

4 minutes ago, hunter77ah said:

I'll admit that I am a noob when it comes to voltage/amperage/etc., but if you can use a fuse to jump it (BTDT with the wedge), why couldn't you hook up a switch between the fuse poles?  I'd probably do an inline fuse with the switch, but I think this idea overall is a great alternative to the MTC.

Because if you did that then you have no fuse.  You would need to include an inline fuse with the switch.  But otherwise - yes that is what everyone is talking about doing.

Edited April 20, 2020 by oldjeep

[justgary]

2 hours ago, martinarcher said:

Exactly.  If the red wires feeding those giant PCB traces are powered when the MTC is down you're golden.

 

I'm betting those IC's are CT chips to measure the current of the outputs.  My system uses a similar design.

Look at that big, red battery cable feeding those little red wires!

I'm betting those ICs are HEXFETS to actually turn on the voltage.  The smaller ones on 'this' end may measure current.  The lonely one on the right of the connector is probably the mux decoder.

@braindamage, we want the part numbers on the little black square ICs on the board.  Side bets are on the table!

I really can't believe that Medallion *still* doesn't use any hermetic sealant on their boards....