Sand Bar, Bent prop

[minnmarker]

$10 and 10 minutes with a drill press and grinder.  Has worked great for 3 changes so far.  It was an "emergency" creation to save a weekend.

[tvano]

On 5/7/2016 at 5:19 PM, powbmps said:

I bought one of these.  $13.  Worked great.

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5685-4-Inch-3-Jaw-Puller/dp/B000NPUKAM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage

 

update, in conversation w powbmps he mentioned that the rudder needs to drop for clearance.  thought it was relevant. 

[minnmarker]

59 minutes ago, tvano said:

update, in conversation w powbmps he mentioned that the rudder needs to drop for clearance.  thought it was relevant. 

Re rudder clearance there would be a problem with a C clamp right off the shelf or most gear pullers, but no problem with my modified one.  The clamp screw was cut off and new hole drilled in it.  That was the 10 minute part.  You do need a drill press, or be very good with a hand held drill, a hack saw, and a grinder.  The grinder it to sharpen the ball that normally is inside the round spinner part (don't know what it's called) of the clamp.

Edited May 12, 2016 by minnmarker

[tvano]

1 hour ago, minnmarker said:

Re rudder clearance there would be a problem with a C clamp right off the shelf or most gear pullers, but no problem with my modified one.  The clamp screw was cut off and new hole drilled in it.  That was the 10 minute part.  You do need a drill press, or be very good with a hand held drill, a hack saw, and a grinder.  The grinder it to sharpen the ball that normally is inside the round spinner part (don't know what it's called) of the clamp.

my one prop removal was with a borrowed c type puller and i had no clearance problems w the rudder.

[minnmarker]

4 minutes ago, tvano said:

my one prop removal was with a borrowed c type puller and i had no clearance problems w the rudder.

I did it the same way as you the first time, if you're talking about a standard hardware store C clamp, but the modified one is much easier to use - especially when floating in a life jacket behind the boat on the lift!  Have yet to do it underwater.

Just goes to show that all you really need to do is put some back tension on the prop and give it a few taps and it'll come right off.

[formulaben]

On 5/7/2016 at 9:59 PM, Shastasurf said:

It is also a good idea to put prop on shaft snugly without key in notch and mark a line on the shaft where it meets front side of prop, slide off prop,put the key in the notch and replace prop and make sure the prop touches the line. If not you may have to file the key.  

Beat me to it.

[ahopkins22LSV]

@Gknappe maybe take your boat to skiers pier down the street and ask if you can borrow a puller if you do the work yourself?

[sunvalleylaw]

On 5/6/2016 at 9:42 AM, oldjeep said:

you need a prop puller, every boater should own one unless you have a friend nearby with one. Maybe if you share your location someone might take pity on you;)

Ok, dumb question.  What is the right shaft size to order for use on a '98 Response?  I am intending to order the Acme C-clamp kit.

Edited March 29, 2017 by sunvalleylaw

[Michigan boarder]

1-1/8" shaft

[sunvalleylaw]

1 hour ago, Michigan boarder said:

1-1/8" shaft

Thanks, that is what I thought, based on what I could find, but wanted to make sure.  My prop does not appear to have any markings indicating anything, and I was relying on the interwebz.  

[Woodski]

@sunvalleylaw:  Am I correct in the assumption you purchased an Acme prop?  If yes the hub has the shaft size stamped along with the part number and blade diameter and pitch.

[sunvalleylaw]

27 minutes ago, Woodski said:

@sunvalleylaw:  Am I correct in the assumption you purchased an Acme prop?  If yes the hub has the shaft size stamped along with the part number and blade diameter and pitch.

Yes, but I meant to take the stock CVP off the stock shaft.  Never did fully figure out those CVP numbers.  Props are here (515 and 525) and have a puller on the way.  1 and 1/8th.