2014 23lsv rebuilding stock sub box

[shawndoggy]

9 hours ago, MLA said:

So the inside seams are not caulked? Other than over spray, is the inside coated with an epoxy or is it raw MDF? Are all the sides .75 or larger? Are the joints screwed an glued? Is the terminal cap glued and screwed in?   

If you seal the inside of the box (IMHO not terribly necessary on sealed... if a sealed box rots from the inside you've probably already deep sixed your driver) what's the point of caulk?  You are going to caulk over the resin?  I mean I certainly wouldn't want to resin over caulk...

And if you glue the joints properly in the first place I'm not really sure I see a point to caulk either.  Caulk is just there as a stopgap for a joint that didn't get properly glued, right?

As for screws in mdf, especially the "not fancy/high tech" home depot mdf, I have never had good luck screwing it.  I'd rather rabbet the joint (more surface area) then I glue the joints, then use brads (finish nailer) to initially hold everything together, then clamps, clamps, and more clamps.  For my remedial construction skills, screws seem to add more risk than benefit.  Even when holes are predrilled and countersunk properly the mdf is real easy to split.  Not to mention that drilling ads a bunch of potential points for water intrusion.  Yes, yes, you can add filler over the screws, sand it down,  and resin over that, but I'm still not sure I see the advantage over a clamped and glued joint.  Plus when running a router over the edges to round them off to accept the resin/sealant, I'd be super paranoid about my router bit hitting a screw (brads not so much).

None of the above is meant as an endorsement to the qbomb box (have never used) but I worry screwing has more risk than benefit for casual hacks.  Just some of my experience (living in the desert with a boat that lives indoors most of the time too).

[Stevo]

I caulked the inside joints,terminal cap and sprayed the the inside because is was a $60 box , and was unfamiliar with the performance and it was precautionary.

only time will tell , but so far so good, 

[David]

Screws, air nails, or air staples will all work. I prefer long air staples. Screws must be pre-drilled with two different sizes for the two pieces of stock so that the screw only taps into one piece of stock. So with a countersink, that's three bits. I like to caulk the interior seams. First, MFD is micro porous and breathes. Once you break the hardened outer surface or expose the edges, it is much more vulnerable. Second, even those glues said to be waterproof can fail over time from heat and moisture. My preference is the added insurance of an inside caulk.   

[MLA]

S-Dog,

I rely on the glue and screws to bond the joint, but i do not expect the glue to make the box air tight, thats what the caulked seams is for. At this stage, i know the box is not going to come apart at the seams and is as air tight as can be. Final stage, raw wood whether inside of a sealed enclosure or not, im going to coat it with some 2-part. Im mixing it anyway for the outside, what a couple more oz for the inside. 

 

[minnmarker]

13 hours ago, IXFE said:

The best "stock like" box build I've seen in this forum was done by @Cory. He built a new enclosure where the kick panel was the baffle. So it was all one piece. Look it up. If you do it well the first time you won't have to build another box next year when you're ready to upgrade sub and amp (assuming you still want sealed). 

Look it up...

Oh, and here's the Q Bomb. Not bad for $60 delivered. Specs say it's 1.3 cu ft. 

3/4 inch thick all around and you can bolt it right to the back of your kick panel.  If the volume is a bit too big throw some dimensional lumber (2 by ?) or closed cell insulation foam in the back.  Easy and cheap.

[Josh4mc]

2 hours ago, minnmarker said:

3/4 inch thick all around and you can bolt it right to the back of your kick panel.  If the volume is a bit too big throw some dimensional lumber (2 by ?) or closed cell insulation foam in the back.  Easy and cheap.

Has anyone been able to lineup the stock sub cutout in the kick panel with the Q Bomb box and get it to fit under the helm? 

 

I have also been looking at this enclosure as an option. It could be installed upside down for a narrower base and deeper topside with various shims.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Sycho-Sound-Subwoofer-Automotive-Enclosure/dp/B002CEMGUO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_2&smid=A1F7NXNJQRLT07

[minnmarker]

12 minutes ago, Josh4mc said:

Has anyone been able to lineup the stock sub cutout in the kick panel with the Q Bomb box and get it to fit under the helm? 

 

I have also been looking at this enclosure as an option. It could be installed upside down for a narrower base and deeper topside with various shims.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Sycho-Sound-Subwoofer-Automotive-Enclosure/dp/B002CEMGUO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_2&smid=A1F7NXNJQRLT07

That one is covered in carpet - not good.

To fit the QBOMB you might have to make a new kick panel but it's just a flat piece of wood or HDPE.

[malibuskier2003]

15 minutes ago, Josh4mc said:

Has anyone been able to lineup the stock sub cutout in the kick panel with the Q Bomb box and get it to fit under the helm? 

 

I have also been looking at this enclosure as an option. It could be installed upside down for a narrower base and deeper topside with various shims.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Sycho-Sound-Subwoofer-Automotive-Enclosure/dp/B002CEMGUO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_2&smid=A1F7NXNJQRLT07

It's pretty easy to make a new kick panel.  3/8" plywood (or 1/2" if you're worried) and some carpet and you can bang one out in a couple of hours.  Much easier than messing with the box in my opinion...

Dave

[MLA]

19 minutes ago, Josh4mc said:

Has anyone been able to lineup the stock sub cutout in the kick panel with the Q Bomb box and get it to fit under the helm? 

 

I have also been looking at this enclosure as an option. It could be installed upside down for a narrower base and deeper topside with various shims.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Sycho-Sound-Subwoofer-Automotive-Enclosure/dp/B002CEMGUO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_2&smid=A1F7NXNJQRLT07

This is the challenge depending on the boat. You taking a pre-made enclosure and mating it to an exactly dictated spot. A custom setup allows you to design the setup and place the cutout offset left right up down as needed.  

[Josh4mc]

What carpet are you guys using on the kick panel to match the factory carpet?

[minnmarker]

23 minutes ago, Josh4mc said:

What carpet are you guys using on the kick panel to match the factory carpet?

Malibu dealers have it or can order it.

[kwebster1]

I'm trying to use the stock kick panel so I don't have to try to match the carpet and all that jazz. I may if it all in the boat later today so I'll keep you posted 

[kwebster1]

Got it sprayed with the bed liner. Didn't have time to install tonight. Hopefully tomorrow I can get it installed and get photos.

 

[kwebster1]

So while photo bucket loads the picture, I just wanted to say holy crap! Making a new box made a huuuuuuuuge difference in the performance of a sub. If Malibu made it right to begin with, I doubt as many people would buy new subs! It's not competition good but good grief! For the 50 bucks it cost to make the box....I would highly suggest everyone do it. Seriously, wow. 

[Josh4mc]

16 minutes ago, kwebster1 said:

So while photo bucket loads the picture, I just wanted to say holy crap! Making a new box made a huuuuuuuuge difference in the performance of a sub. If Malibu made it right to begin with, I doubt as many people would buy new subs! It's not competition good but good grief! For the 50 bucks it cost to make the box....I would highly suggest everyone do it. Seriously, wow. 

Okay, how much to make another? 

I might have to give this a try.

Edited March 31, 2016 by Josh4mc

[MLA]

36 minutes ago, kwebster1 said:

So while photo bucket loads the picture, I just wanted to say holy crap! Making a new box made a huuuuuuuuge difference in the performance of a sub. If Malibu made it right to begin with, I doubt as many people would buy new subs! It's not competition good but good grief! For the 50 bucks it cost to make the box....I would highly suggest everyone do it. Seriously, wow. 

Preaching to the choir brotha! been my experience for about 4 model years. 

[kwebster1]

If I were to do it again, I would POSSIBLY make it 1.2 or 1.3 cu ft. I'm at 1.1. But seriously, that's unjust what Malibu does with their sub box!

It's like I did nothing all....

Edited March 31, 2016 by kwebster1

[Josh4mc]

Man, I want to make my own box but do not have the free time I used to have. 

They have a 10" QBomb enclosure that could be cut out to fit a 12" sub. Same height and width but 2.75" shallower at only 13.25" deep which would help because depth seems to be the biggest issue. This reduces the air space to 1.2 cubic feet though. 

Thoughts with the stock sub?

http://www.amazon.com/Q-Power-QBomb-Subwoofer-Sub-Box/dp/B00NG38MVW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_422_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51igeRYv0eL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1J09DMMVNMEMNYNTQM65

[minnmarker]

35 minutes ago, Josh4mc said:

Man, I want to make my own box but do not have the free time I used to have. 

They have a 10" QBomb enclosure that could be cut out to fit a 12" sub. Same height and width but 2.75" shallower at only 13.25" deep which would help because depth seems to be the biggest issue. This reduces the air space to 1.2 cubic feet though. 

Thoughts with the stock sub?

http://www.amazon.com/Q-Power-QBomb-Subwoofer-Sub-Box/dp/B00NG38MVW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_422_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51igeRYv0eL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1J09DMMVNMEMNYNTQM65

If external size is not an issue and you just want to decrease the internal volume just glue some wood or hard foam (like insulation foam) into the back of the QBOMB.  Let the glue dry before you seal it up.

You'll make a mess of that particle board with a saber saw if you try to enlarge the hole.

Edited March 31, 2016 by minnmarker
addition

[bb1632]

22 hours ago, kwebster1 said:

If I were to do it again, I would POSSIBLY make it 1.2 or 1.3 cu ft. I'm at 1.1. But seriously, that's unjust what Malibu does with their sub box!

It's like I did nothing all....

Looks great.  So you were able to line it up and reuse the stock kick panel?

[kwebster1]

39 minutes ago, bb1632 said:

Looks great.  So you were able to line it up and reuse the stock kick panel?

Yes. I did cut the kick panel 1.5 inches radius wider so the sub and grille are all part of the actual box and it all just slides through the kick panel. I actually like it more this way because the grille  is so deep anyway. Aesthetically it's is more pleasing to me

[bb1632]

18 minutes ago, kwebster1 said:

Yes. I did cut the kick panel 1.5 inches radius wider so the sub and grille are all part of the actual box and it all just slides through the kick panel. I actually like it more this way because the grille  is so deep anyway. Aesthetically it's is more pleasing to me

Gotcha.  So the panel is in the exact same place then if you were able to re-use it?  How did you fasten the box to the hull?

[kwebster1]

1 hour ago, bb1632 said:

 

31 minutes ago, bb1632 said:

Gotcha.  So the panel is in the exact same place then if you were able to re-use it?  How did you fasten the box to the hull?

I used 3/4 inch stainless screws and fastened the kick panel to the box.  Hopefully it will hold. Kick panel is screwed in the factory locations

[augie09]

I need to do this, but maybe I should just buy yours at the end of the summer since you are upgrading again

 

[kwebster1]

52 minutes ago, augie09 said:

I need to do this, but maybe I should just buy yours at the end of the summer since you are upgrading again

 

Up to you broham