Overheated, then wouldn't start

[Woodski]

@Lewistonskier: you can get a marine tstat at a good auto parts store if the SkiDim back order is lengthy. Good to have a spare on hand. I would suggest not running too much w/o the stat as it does add some back pressure ton the coolant in the block thus keeping the heads and intake manifold full of water and reducing any cavitation. The head gaskets offer same for block.

It sounds like the starter may be on the weak side, added heat and resistance from the makes it draw a lot from the battery. Could also be some slightly loose or corroded connections. If you swap the starter make sure it does have marine protection.

Edited June 25, 2015 by Woodski

[jgates237]

The vinegar flush program, never seen it before.

Shawndog, did you do this on your 2014 LSV? If so may I ask why? Also, any concern it may damage other componnets such as the cats?

I would love to have the inside of my engine clean as a whistle but would hate to create more problems as a result of doing this procedure. Thoughts anyone?

Thx!

[Smokinjo]

I believe Shawn has the LS3 in his 14 LSV. He should have closed cooling for the engine if that is the case and no need for vinegar there.

[shawndoggy]

this was on my old boat... pcm ex 343 equipped. We run in a very alkaline lake that has a LOT of mineral content, so buildup is clearly a concern.

Smokinjo is right new boat closed cooling. will probably end up flushing the exhaust manifolds after a year or two.

[REW]

this was on my old boat... pcm ex 343 equipped. We run in a very alkaline lake that has a LOT of mineral content, so buildup is clearly a concern.

Smokinjo is right new boat closed cooling. will probably end up flushing the exhaust manifolds after a year or two.

How did you get the vinegar into the exhaust manifolds?

[shawndoggy]

Drain block, backfill from risers. Same way you would if using antifreeze during winterization.

[lewistonskier]

I poured mine in today, and it bubbled just as much as yours, if not more. Bubbled out of the exhaust too. I disconnected the hose from the tstat housing to the manifold, and poured the vinegar through a funnel straight into the hose. Disconnected the outgoing hose too so I could see when it started to pour out the other side

[lewistonskier]

Went and water tested today, keeping it on the trailer in case of the same issue. I ran for about 10 min, at fairly high RPM's. It was running great, and the temp was holding steady, between (on and stock temp gauge) between 170 and 180 degrees (160 tstat). I turned the engine off after about 2 min, and it started fine, then again after the 10 min, and it did the weak turnover bit again. Some of the time it won't turn over at all, but when it won't turn over, the power gauge is showing that it is sucking power. The blower is still running fine, even when it won't start.

When I had the nostart on the water, I drained the block to lower the temp, and that is what got it to start again. Since I was on the trailer, I just left everything, and after the 35 min drive home, it still wouldn't start, but was close. I pulled the starter, and there is a decent amount of rust and corrosion on it. I'm taking it to the auto parts store this afternoon to have it tested. Unfortunately, I won't be able to recreate the heat of the starter, but does anyone know what type of amp draw would be a good reading/ a bad reading.

In addition, when I have tested it on the hose, I've never had a problem restarting, but the engine cover has to be up. I also can run the RPM's as high, due to the amount of water. I'm thinking that this is what is creating the temperature difference that is allowing it to start at home, but not on the water. Would this make sense, are am I fishing for ideas?

Edited July 1, 2015 by lewistonskier

[shawndoggy]

why would draining the water out cool it down any faster? The water is the heat sink here, right?

[RTS]

the power gauge is showing that it is sucking power.

What gauge is that?

[Woodski]

@Lewistonskier: along with testing the starter, I would recommend a battery load test. The problem sounds a lot like a failing cell in the battery.

[lewistonskier]

The gauge was the stock dash volt gauge. When I took the starter in today, as soon as I heard it go, I was pretty sure it was the problem. It had a very loud rattle. He then explained to me what was wrong (I don't remember exactly what it was) and how when it was hot, it would expand and then not have enough strength to turn over. It would cool, contract, and work well enough to go. The shaft also had a lot of wobble to it, being able to be moved around by hand. He said I might be able to rebuild some of it, but I'm going to just buy a new one, I'm pretty sure it will take care of the problem.

In response to why I drained to block to lower the temp, that time, the engine had overheated, due to what I later figured out was a bad tstat. My assumption was that ment there was 200 degree plus water just sitting in the block, and with no air exposer, it was actually keeping the block hotter rather than colder. I might have been bad logic, but it allowed the starter to cool enough for the boat to start.

[Mpeters]

Just had the exact problem... I had an impeller explode and I thought I had cleaned out all the pieces .. However my boat was doing the exact same thing yours is / was.. I pulled the intake hose of and it was full of rubber.. Also took a coat hanger and cleaned out each tube of the oil cooler... Lots of pieces in their as well... I didn't pull the thermostat but apparently you can get prices in it too... Which can make it stick open