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Blown Engine / Exhaust ? Please Help


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Trashing?

I don't believe I was trashing them.

All I said was I wouldn't be surprised if they screwed up

AND GUESS WHAT?!?! THEY SCREWED UP!!

So I guess I was justified in my "trashing" then? No?

ax-grinding-jig.jpg

  • Like 4
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Sounds like a stand up dealer! :salute: Its one thing that could totally drive me to a dealer.

I am one that starts my boat in the drive. I also watch the exhaust and watch for the thermostat go through two open and closings. All the time looking for leaks or any other issues that could show up. Then to the ramp. I pull off the trailer and open the dog house and idle for some time before closing and running at speed. Just me. Coming fro a racing back ground I don't like mistakes and yes they do happen.

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Yes, I would say you definitely got lucky.

For future reference, I would forgo the "launch, idle,WOT,back down for a minute, WOT, BOOM!" first run of the season shakedown method you used and replace it with something a little more sensible. Like taking it easy and stopping every now and then and checking for water in the bilge, abnormal sounds/temps, and keeping a closer eye on the temp gauge. Especially if any work (winterizing, summerizing, etc.) has been done on the engine.

Launched boat, drove around idle for few mins then WOT, backed down for a min then WOT for 30 seconds then she went....

Edited by RTS
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Super happy to hear that they're stepping up for you, Hulk!! I wish you the best. I know they did well for ahopkins, my experiences have been altogether different, but I also didn't buy a new boat from them, or a nearly new boat from them. Keep us posted. Congrats again!

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Wow, nice to hear they'll take care of you! This dealer is the closest to me so I was curious. I have not dealt with them yet except for having them show me some older used boats. Like you say, some of the boat mechanic shops around will leave hoses disconnected due to their preferences and then say 'come back to me to get it summarized' but the dealer set an expectation of not having to do anything in the spring. All about the expectations... Regardless, learning everything you can about the boat will only help to avoid and reduce issues in the future. I try to learn all that I can, mainly from here!

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Great news, glad it worked out for you.

So in terms of warranty, this would be a unwarrantable item correct? This is being taken care of purely by the dealers screw up. Do you have extended warranty on the new parts being put in?

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OK, I'll be honest. Destroy this thread, dump that boat before it gets beyond warranty. I'm betting you have more damage there that will show up long term than you realize. I wouldn't be keeping that boat. I would also bet the dealer is getting this fixed under warranty from Indmar and the new parts/existing parts will not carry any further warranty beyond the original.

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Again we wont mention any names but they seem to be very stand up dealer and taking care of their customers so i'll surely be back for the next upgrade in a year or two!

i will also see how the warranty will play out moving forward or if since its being rebuilt if that will extend from this point forward (i hope so).

I still find this hard to believe that some people on here have convinced themselves that disconnecting and NOT reconnecting such things is "normal" ...I'm not trying to knock anyone on here nor will i sit here and argue with anyone but i just find that is impossible to believe and i think 95-99% of anyone with a boat would agree or SHOULD agree. The reason you take these beasts for servicing is because you yourself dont want to be responsible for Fn it up! otherwise we would all service the boats and winterize them ourselves. and i know some of you do and good for you... Personally i will have mine done and serviced for me always so there IS some accountability. Again without any warning labels or pre-signed agreed commitment to bring it back to the same dealer for summerization this is just nonsense of people believing this crap. Yes i agree there is some responsibility for checking the first time out as i did, i honestly checked multiple times, but when the temp gauge reads water temp and there is no water then WTF is someone going to know? No water in the boat....no warning audible sound....The HARDEST thing i cant gather my head around is WTF no temp warning for the engine block goes off or maybe there is not even one... seems boats much older than myself all had audio alarms for engine block temp (not just water temp going through engine) ...

Also when talking to a gear head across the street he said these engines are inner cooled or in that the antifreeze cools the engine, but the lake-water comes up and takes the heat out of the antifreeze or cools the antifreeze some people may call this closed loop for the antifreeze or closed loop, or inner-cooled etc.. i dont know much about these and dont quote me on this exactly... As some have stated since the engine was never "DRY" just the antifreeze got hot and SC locked up the engine "might" be ok.

Also I just spoke to a friend last night on a dealer closer to me and something of this nature happened they somewhat admitted fault but not entirely and left the customer hanging. Needless to say they were pissed to the point of changing dealers and brands.

I think the GOOD dealers understand that most of us are not going to be driving the same boat for the rest of our lives and that we'll be upgrading at some point so its still in their best interest to take care of a customer because in the long run of business its a lot more difficult to find a new customer than it is to keep one, service them and continue to make money for their entire lives. It provides the security of their future. The sale is just one thing but servicing and new boat purchases/upgrades is what keeps the doors open at most dealerships.

My situation has for me at least convinced me to stick with this dealer for life, as well we'll be purchasing a pontoon and upgrading in a year or two from them.

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hulk: closed or raw water cooling?

again from what someone told me the antifreeze cools the engine and or SC, and the water from the lake goes around the antifreeze and cools the antifreeze, so i dont know the technical term i have NO clue i'm honestly as engine dumb as they come...

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OK sounds like closed cooling. There is antifreeze in the block that is cooled by a raw water heat exchanger. The heat exchanger is like a radiator except that instead of air cooling the antifreeze it's water from the lake.

I'm glad they are fixing this for you!

There are a bunch of reasons that it's a good idea to understand how your cooling system works. To name just one, so you know what to do if a freak early season freeze happens and your dealer has 50 boats ahead of you that day.

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Yes i agree there is some responsibility for checking the first time out as i did, i honestly checked multiple times, but when the temp gauge reads water temp and there is no water then WTF is someone going to know? No water in the boat....no warning audible sound....The HARDEST thing i cant gather my head around is WTF no temp warning for the engine block goes off or maybe there is not even one... seems boats much older than myself all had audio alarms for engine block temp (not just water temp going through engine) ...

Hulk, my first suggestion is that you ask your dealer to show you the ENGINE temperature gauge NOT the WATER temperature gauge given your previous posts indicating that the water temp was inaccurate (in addition to the air temp). If you have closed cooling, then the WATER TEMP is irrelevant. If you have closed cooling, it will read the temp of the coolant (which would normally be water, but its not the water temp that matters). Knowing whether you have closed cooling or not is something you need to get straightened out with your dealer. There is no more important gauge on your boat than your engine temp gauge. As to alarms, yep, there's plenty, and engine will even go into protect mode. BUT it has to be reading water or the coolant.

Edited by 85 Barefoot
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So if the gauge was working it would have shown the boat overheating. If the gauge wasn't working it would have shown "cold" all the time and when the OP did the WOT testing.

Hmmmm.

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Ok this has to be serious engineering negligence not to have an engine block alarm for any boat... there is stuff for 20-200 bucks.. we all have 20-150k boats..seems older boats had such things how do boats costing as much as a house dont? ... seems engine providers or boat companies would be smart to require it for warranty reasons... any recommendations in any such devices on the marker? Engine temp bolt alarm "aqualarm" 20 bucks.. exhaust temp alarm 220 bucks???

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Hulk.... in the nicest way possible lemme suggest that instead of adding more bandaids you study your boat's cooling system. Your boat has a temp gauge. It's closed cooled. so there's always antifreeze in there. The gauge you need to watch, study, glance at all the time is temp.

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Shawn.. yes i agree but temp gauge Measures water temp exchanging the heat pulled out of the antifreeze when there is water .. no water no temp or warnings. .. for engine heat... = SOL..

Seems exhaust temp devices from the pdf I was reading is the best and fastest way to detect overheating as even water twmo takes a while to change exhaust is nearly instant increase...

With dogs kids tubers surfers music it's very easy to overlook any one gauge... when's the last time anyone paid attention to their cars temp gauge when the red light wasn't on? Pry nobody... but again as dealer said no water no temp readings and no warning... An exhaust alarm would have nearly instantly been beeping before getting 5 ft away... if installed .. seems like a great mod add on and nearly unbelievable $100k boats don't have such a thing. If I were malibu or indimar factory I would require it installed or I wouldn't warranty them as from their perspective they are leaving one failure point the hose intake which people on here seem to think they fall off all the time or don't get reconnected..

I'm guessing indimar or malibu eats $50-100k replacements/yr at a min.. a $50 exhaust warning could yield that way down and it's not like it wouldn't be billed in there somewhere for a few hundred. ..I guess I'm saying it's cheap and makes the syst fail proof why isn't it standard?

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Shawn.. yes i agree but temp gauge Measures water temp exchanging the heat pulled out of the antifreeze when there is water .. no water no temp or warnings. .. for engine heat... = SOL..

Seems exhaust temp devices from the pdf I was reading is the best and fastest way to detect overheating as even water twmo takes a while to change exhaust is nearly instant increase...

With dogs kids tubers surfers music it's very easy to overlook any one gauge... when's the last time anyone paid attention to their cars temp gauge when the red light wasn't on? Pry nobody... but again as dealer said no water no temp readings and no warning... An exhaust alarm would have nearly instantly been beeping before getting 5 ft away... if installed .. seems like a great mod add on and nearly unbelievable $100k boats don't have such a thing. If I were malibu or indimar factory I would require it installed or I wouldn't warranty them as from their perspective they are leaving one failure point the hose intake which people on here seem to think they fall off all the time or don't get reconnected..

I'm guessing indimar or malibu eats $50-100k replacements/yr at a min.. a $50 exhaust warning could yield that way down and it's not like it wouldn't be billed in there somewhere for a few hundred. ..I guess I'm saying it's cheap and makes the syst fail proof why isn't it standard?

no the temp gauge measures the temperature of the af in your block. It does not measure the temp of the raw water going through the heat exchanger. go find the sensor and see where it's screwed in. it's not going to be the heat exchanger.

Edited by shawndoggy
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^^this is how I know you weren't keeping a close enough eye on your temp gauge.

Put it this way, your system operates similar to a car except instead of a radiator it has a heat exchanger. The temp sending unit is submersed in coolant all the time even if you have no fresh water flowing to your heat exchanger.

To answer your question about why alarms aren't standard: there's a gauge and that enough for most people.

Edited by Lance B. Johnson
  • Like 2
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ahopkins22LSV

^^this is how I know you weren't keeping a close enough eye on your temp gauge.

Put it this way, your system operates similar to a car except instead of a radiator it has a heat exchanger. The temp sending unit is submersed in coolant all the time even if you have no fresh water flowing to your heat exchanger.

To answer your question about why alarms aren't standard: there's a gauge and that enough for most people.

Right, when my wife's water pump blew in her jeep she didn't think she was over heating because there was no fluid so the gauge read cold!

I don't think anyone is trying to be an total a hole to you hulk, just help. I've always said the best depth gauge you can have is yourself - knowing your own lake and not waiting for the shallow water alarm because then it's too late. Same here with the temp. I'm always monitoring my gauges for anything out of the ordinary. I would like to think I would see my temp rising before it got hot enough to set off the alarm.

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