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Levi900RR's 2015 (and first ever) Stereo build


Levi900RR

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This is what I'm looking at right now... I moved the cables and can fit the sub on the back wall. My 300.2 just barley fits to the right of the sub and my 400.4 fits nicely over on the left side where my stock amp was. I can move the perfect pass module down under the sub and put my fuse box up where the PP module was. It's going to be tight...

9B370504-1548-4D64-A27B-3EE323EB26A4.jpg

Doing this is going to force me to block off that vent intake under the helm. There's another one on the port side in the observers compartment so I think I'll be safe. Any thoughts on that?

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Thinking out loud here... I think I'm going to mount the sub under the helm. 400.4 under the helm where the stock amp was, then move the 300.2 over under the observers compartment. I can run the tower speaker wires down the port side instead of the starboard. The only down side I can see to this is my power wires from the blue seas and one set of RCa's from the 420 will have to run over to the 300.2.

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I was going to use the 5025.

That's not going to work as a distro block for amps. It's limited to 100A total and 30A per circuit. I know that the rockford 400.4 alone has a 60A max draw (according to rockford).

You need a "real" power and ground distribution setup. Something like this:

Power

shd821.jpg

Ground

shd21.jpg

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Crystal, I'd love to see a pic of your set up.

Levi - got some pics...but waiting to renew my membership before I can post the pics. PM me your email if in a hurry.

Ryan

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Ok guys I snuck away for a few hours today and actually feel like Iade some progress...

I've got all my gear mounted where it's going to go. I decided to put the 300.2 in the observers compartment just to keep things spaced out nicely.

Here's a few crappy shots under the helm.

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I used my old remote / safety lanyard / aux input panel for a mount for my 420. It turned out ok... I may make a better one next year but this will do for now.

B3D29FEE-1AB0-4E98-A294-51901D76A46F.jpg

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Got the easy install done on my 6.5's

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Still need to do the dash ones :Doh:

I also got my LF-6's wired up to the dash which was left over from last fall.

I've got the holes all laid out on my tower and I'm going to have a local machine shop pop the holes in it for me this week. Hoping to start pulling wire this week and I'm really hoping to fire it up next weekend.

Thanks for everyone's help!

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Question, how do you guys figure out what size of a hole you need in your tower? Are you getting the grommet first and matching the hole to the grommet? Looks like that 8 conductor wire is ~ 1/2" in diameter. I was going to run out and grab a handful of 1/2" ID grommets today and see which fit nicely. I've been googleing around this morning and it looks like some of the 1/2" ID grommets need a hole that's 3/4"! That's a big hole, is that what you guys are cutting into your towers? Just want to make sure before I drill.

Other question is kind of directed at NitroBird. Wondering if I have to take into consideration the thickness of the TechFlex loom I bought. If so I'll have that today and I'll take a measurement of the wire with the loom.

Thanks!

PS, forgot to put a pic of the 300.2 location:

41A5FA56-BA49-40A2-A824-6603F08473C6.jpg

Plenty of room over there.

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grommets always seem to need a bigger hole than you think. 3/4" sounds about right to me... and maybe even 7/8". Seems like you could do a test fit with a piece of scrap wood or something? Yes, you will need to account for the thickness of the techflex too (it's got to add a 16th at least).

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grommets always seem to need a bigger hole than you think. 3/4" sounds about right to me... and maybe even 7/8". Seems like you could do a test fit with a piece of scrap wood or something? Yes, you will need to account for the thickness of the techflex too (it's got to add a 16th at least).

Thanks, I'm going to get my wire and techflex, a bunch of grommets and start hole sawing into the sheet metal I have kicking around to get the hole dialed in. One thing that will be interesting is the curve of the tubing. I'm wondering if I'm going to end up with a slight oval no matter what I do...

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Little mid week update. I was able to sneak away for an hour last night. I got the amps and sub wired up for power, ground and remote. Now that everything's mounted up the wiring is going pretty fast.

Punch list for what's left:

1) Drill / wire the tower

2) Make up the gunwale connectors

3) Pull windshield and replace dash speakers

4) Install HU, wire up 420 and plug all my RCA's in

5) Test and tune

I'm starting to see the end of the tunnel. Can't wait to get this done and get out on the water!

EDIT: You guys will probably laugh at me but I decided to use the Blue Seas fuse block as my distro. I have a buddy who's an EE and he and I did a little experiment in my garage with my amps and an amp meter. I'm going to give it a shot with a 100A breaker feeding it and 30A fuses. If it pops them all the time I'll swap it out.

Edited by Levi900RR
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L

EDIT: You guys will probably laugh at me but I decided to use the Blue Seas fuse block as my distro. I have a buddy who's an EE and he and I did a little experiment in my garage with my amps and an amp meter. I'm going to give it a shot with a 100A breaker feeding it and 30A fuses. If it pops them all the time I'll swap it out.

No laughs just don't burn your boat down. What sized wire are you running to the 5025 and from each individual connection on the 5025? How long are your runs? I'd think you'd want AT LEAST 8awg to the amps and that would sure be hard to squeeze on those #8 screw ring terminals?

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Yeah I'm using 8G, I was able to get them on ring terminals that seemed to work fine in the 5025. I'm going pretty light on fuses so I think the only risk is popping fuses.

EDIT: They are really short runs. Like 4 inches, and 2 feet.

Edited by Levi900RR
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Anyone have any tips / tricks for removing my windshield? Looks like I just pop the weather strip off and take the screws out? I was hoping to just kind of slide it forward and have someone hold it out there while I swap the speakers real quick, then slide it back. Replace screws etc....

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I was able to do the passenger side without removing the windshield. I just used a small rachet with a phillips bit. I did remove the driver's side and it was a piece of cake. It is mostly just screws. There are a couple small bolts with nuts on them on the curved part IIRC.

Edited by Brodie
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I was able to do the passenger side without removing the windshield. I just used a small rachet with a phillips bit. I did remove the driver's side and it was a piece of cake. It is mostly just screws. There are a couple small bolts with nuts on them up on the curved part IIRC.

There is way more room on the passenger side for sure. I'll give that a shot. Thanks for the vote of confidence.

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