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22 VLX Stereo install (newbie)


Fman

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Lookin good. Any concerns about catching a shin or knee on the ZLD?

I think it should be fine, its pretty tight up against dash and the ZLD is thin. I had my WS 420 mounted is same place and it was never a problem, hoping the ZLD will be the same.

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did you screw the blue sea distro block into the back of the cubby?

Shawn I used velcro to mount the Blue Sea to the cubby. I did not want to have any screws/intrusions coming through the cubby. It seems to be holding on pretty good, the entire surface of the Blue Sea is covered with it. There really is not a lot of good mounting options under the helm I could find, or at least good places to make the fuse bank easily accessible to swap a fuse out if needed. The Blue Sea is pretty light so I am hopeful the velcro will hold up, if not I am going to go plan B and have to come through the cubby with some type of fastener.

Edited by Fman
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In your first post you listed 8" Exile cabin speakers. Was that correct? Did I miss something?

The VLX has 8" cabin speakers (4 of them), Exile has them finished, last I heard they were on a ship just waiting to be unloaded. With this longshoreman strike it is causing a lot of problems, hopefully they get it all figured out sooner than later.

Edited by Fman
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How did you hear of them? I didn't see anything on their website.

I am sure they will be releasing the new product line information soon, I have been in contact with the owner of Exile (Brian) quite a bit helping me with my install. I heard there is a new amp also coming out as well.

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Can you explain more about how to wire in the Blue Sea distribution block? I assume it goes straight into the Perko switch, yes? If so, what size cable do you use? 0 gauge? I like the idea a lot, but I'm having trouble picturing it. How many big fat cables can you slam into that Perko?

I assume then you'll run cable from the Blue Sea to your pumps? What size?

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The late night surgery is completed, with Zeppelin playing in the garage I began to cut.... I finally figured out a place to put my ballast switches and toggle switch for the stereo on/off. The three empty spaces will be for front, right and left ballast fill toggles. Its super easy to access and out of the way. I did this on my last VLX in same area, I just was not sure if 4 switches would fit but I ended up having enough space.

20150216_235357_zpstohiq0oq.jpg

And I was able to get my Blue Sea hooked up, I ended moving it over about 2", little better visibility to see when swapping out a fuse.

20150216_235653_zpsjcc74dya.jpg

Edited by Fman
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Can you explain more about how to wire in the Blue Sea distribution block? I assume it goes straight into the Perko switch, yes? If so, what size cable do you use? 0 gauge? I like the idea a lot, but I'm having trouble picturing it. How many big fat cables can you slam into that Perko?

I assume then you'll run cable from the Blue Sea to your pumps? What size?

Dave, it uses 4 AWG wire that will come from the common post on the Perko, and the ground will go to a battery ground post. It does a few things, it make it much easier to hook up all the ballast toggle switches, easy to swap out a blown fuse, and allows for another source for power if needed for another item. When I installed my Johnson pumps in my last boat, I ended up running three different power runs (for each pump) over to the perks. So basically I had three connections to the Perko, with this set up I only have one. I checked and there is plenty of room on the perks to run another 4 AWG wire out of it. Each one of those hot/ground terminals on the blue sea will be running a Johnson pump, super simple. IMO, this is a much cleaner way to install the pumps. If you ever blow a fuse it will be labeled and easily accessible to swap out. The velcro I think will be solid, I gave it a good tug tonight and it did not budge. If you have any other questions please ask... hopefully this helps explain what I am doing.

Edited by Fman
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I don't know whether it matters or not, but you should be able to route that power wire into the the side of the blue sea 5025 rather than having the loop hang down to go through the bottom. You may need to replace that rubber end piece with a piece of heat shrink to fit it under the cover though.

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Fman, I like your location for the ballast switches. I think that is what I will do. I only have one switch, so your pic gives me confidence it will all work out. What tool did you use to cut the hole? If it was a dremmel, what attachment blade (a simple tool pic speaks a thousand words)?

I'm truly happy you are running ahead of me on this... :)

Edited by Cory
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Fman, I like your location for the ballast switches. I think that is what I will do. I only have one switch, so your pic gives me confidence it will all work out. What tool did you use to cut the hole? If it was a dremmel, what attachment blade (a simple tool pic speaks a thousand words)?

I'm truly happy you are running ahead of me on this... :)

Cory, my weapon of choice... this is what I use to cut all my plastic in the boat. Good luck!

20150213_121259_zpsovqykves.jpg

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Cory, I use a longer drill bit than comes with the kit.

Here is what I do.

Trace outline of switch bezel with sharpie. Make sure it's level and where you want it before using sharpie. Remember not everything is square and level in the arm rest, I think eyeballing works best.

Next I take blue masking tape and tape around cut area, follow up with gorilla tape on top of blue tape. This just helps if you accidentally get off target and protects vinyl.

Next use a razor blade and cut out the sharpie outline and padding beneath vinyl. There will be a significant indentation from vinyl and padding being removed.

Now you can test fit the bezel, it should slide right into the area you just cut out with razor blade.

Now use the dremmel and just cut along area desired to cut. I use a longer drill bit because it's near impossible to accidentally pop out while cutting and hit the vinyl. You will get some melting plastic slag but don't worry about it. You can run back over it on a second pass with ease. You will probably have to clean up edge with bit, just go easy and take your time.

Now test fit bezel and scrape any more necessary plastic away for a snug fit. Bezel will pop into place when properly fitted. Just take a little off each time if you have to trim a little.

Also check behind panel to make sure it's all clear from wires. Mine was totally clear nothing to remove.

If you have any other questions let me know...

Edited by Fman
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Houston we have lift off, blue lights are on! I was able to finish up all wiring today, ZLD, and clean up the observer compartment. Everything is working great, first power up was a success. I got to hear the tower speakers and 4 inboat speakers, still no sub or 8" yet. I gotta say, for not being tuned, those XM9's are ready to rip and are super loud, they sounded pretty dang good, plenty of juice going to them... I can hardly wait to get that sub firing and the 8" rocking.

20150219_154119_zps6rgmtn1c.jpg

20150219_154132_zpsfhn566ha.jpg

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