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IXFE boat order finalized... (long)


IXFE

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Dave, one question. Are you saying the Malibu stereo integration offers the same tuneability as a ZLD eq? You can fade out zones, inboat speakers and tower, sub, etc..? And being able to adjust bass, midbass, high, sub frequency, sub volume, etc... I was told there was no tuneability options like an eq with the factory Malibu stereo setup?

No... I am not implying the factory stereo has the same tuneability as the ZLD. My point was more than I don't really use that tuneability.

Here's what I saw when I played with the new factory setup. The MTC has stereo controls now. Like any basic head unit, that includes treble, bass, balance, and fader controls.

The factory sets up the fader to control up/down (i.e. fading between tower and cabin) rather than the traditional front/back that you'd find in a car. If you fade all the way to the "front" you get pure tower. If you fade all the way to the "back" you get pure cabin. If you leave it in the middle you get both. Is it as easy as a knob (or two) on an EQ? No, it takes a few pushes at the screen to do that. So for the guy who is constantly adjusting the volume in each of his zones, this is not a good option. But for me... I've had an EQ in three boats now, and it occurred to me that I almost never change the volume between tower and cabin. It seems that when the ideal opportunity to do so arises, I never think to do it. Honestly, I don't remember adjusting those zones more than 2-3 times all season. That's just me. I'm lazy.

The zone I do tend to adjust "on the fly" is the sub. That's easy enough with a separate sub volume control straight into the amp. As Cory suggested, you can do this for any zone as long as the amp that powers that zone has a volume control input (not all do).

As far as the bass, midbass, and treble controls... I never adjust those either... they stay in the neutral position always. My thinking is... get the amps tuned correctly at the outset. I'm not smart enough to be making "on the fly" adjustments with an EQ. If I do adjust them, it will be once (i.e. set it and forget it).

I might miss the ZLD. If I do, I'll just add one. The thing I don't like about it is that I get easily confused when there is more than one "master" volume knob. So I'd like to give the new Sport Knob an honest try at being the ONE knob. There's great value (to me) in that simplicity.

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Dave, one question. Are you saying the Malibu stereo integration offers the same tuneability as a ZLD eq? You can fade out zones, inboat speakers and tower, sub, etc..? And being able to adjust bass, midbass, high, sub frequency, sub volume, etc... I was told there was no tuneability options like an eq with the factory Malibu stereo setup?

Independent zone volume control can be achieved with JL Audio amps and running one of these (http://www.jlaudio.com/hd-rlc-marine-audio-amplifier-accessories-98118) for each amp to the dash. The sport knob would act as the master volume/mute and the HU/MTC would be your treble/bass eq.

You can even color code the knobs http://www.jlaudio.com/aluminum-knob-marine-audio-amplifier-accessories-98191

Edited by Cory
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problem with the JL RLCs is the bang for the buck. If we operate on the assumption that IXFE can get an exile bro deal (let's make a reasonable guess of $200 for a ZLD), and the two RLCs (tower and sub.... which also require specific tower and sub amps) are $70, that's only a $130 delta. $130 for the added SQ benefit of the line driver cannot be understated. Or how about the clarion EQ, which is $75 or less ($53 today! http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-EQS746-Graphic-Equalizer-Crossover/dp/B000EZV3T8)...

Yes I know I know, there's also PAC LC-1s (very nice units for what they are (but those require lots of long RCA runs, exacerbating the factory HU's low voltage output).

Kicker ZXM RLC would also do exactly the same thing as the two JL RLCs, but with any amps.

I totally get the "giant knob" thing. I still think for someone used to fingertip control of the zones, one knob on one hand and then a touch screen with the other hand would be annoying / super irritating. I could be wrong tho!

Edited by shawndoggy
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My issue with the ZLD on the new boats is two fold: 1) lack of good mounting options with the new dash, 2) dueling master volume controls.

Perhaps someone more creative than me can figure out a good solution to issue #1. Issue #2 is troubling. Guaranteed different drivers will be messing with different knobs. The new ZLD does not allow you to push in the the master volume knob to conceal it. It will always be out on display, inviting someone to turn it. The sport knob has a huge "sticker" on it screaming "TURN ME, PLEASE!!!!" I think you will be constantly fighting those knobs, not knowing which knob has been turned by how much. You will reach for one knob, turn it, only to find out its maxed out and not the knob you need to turn.

I don't dispute the potential benefit of a good pre-driver. I'm hoping the noise issues on the new RFX6000 and MTC are improved such that a pre-driver is less important (hopefully).

That's my beef...

Edited by Cory
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I almost purchased the new ZLD when they were $100 off this past spring. I wanted a ZLD for my new boat, until we learned about the new dash with it's big rotary knob and the lack of underside curl on the dash plastic. Then I started to shy away from it.

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Great looking boat!! I really like the new G4 tower and I think your options put you into a good resale situation. Personally, I am still on the fence regarding the 410, but it sounds like you have quite a bit of seat time with it.

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No... I am not implying the factory stereo has the same tuneability as the ZLD. My point was more than I don't really use that tuneability.

Here's what I saw when I played with the new factory setup. The MTC has stereo controls now. Like any basic head unit, that includes treble, bass, balance, and fader controls.

The factory sets up the fader to control up/down (i.e. fading between tower and cabin) rather than the traditional front/back that you'd find in a car. If you fade all the way to the "front" you get pure tower. If you fade all the way to the "back" you get pure cabin. If you leave it in the middle you get both. Is it as easy as a knob (or two) on an EQ? No, it takes a few pushes at the screen to do that. So for the guy who is constantly adjusting the volume in each of his zones, this is not a good option. But for me... I've had an EQ in three boats now, and it occurred to me that I almost never change the volume between tower and cabin. It seems that when the ideal opportunity to do so arises, I never think to do it. Honestly, I don't remember adjusting those zones more than 2-3 times all season. That's just me. I'm lazy.

The zone I do tend to adjust "on the fly" is the sub. That's easy enough with a separate sub volume control straight into the amp. As Cory suggested, you can do this for any zone as long as the amp that powers that zone has a volume control input (not all do).

As far as the bass, midbass, and treble controls... I never adjust those either... they stay in the neutral position always. My thinking is... get the amps tuned correctly at the outset. I'm not smart enough to be making "on the fly" adjustments with an EQ. If I do adjust them, it will be once (i.e. set it and forget it).

I might miss the ZLD. If I do, I'll just add one. The thing I don't like about it is that I get easily confused when there is more than one "master" volume knob. So I'd like to give the new Sport Knob an honest try at being the ONE knob. There's great value (to me) in that simplicity.

I can see the appeal of the knob for a volume control. We might be in the minority but we always use our eq to adjust inboat and tower speakers. We tend to turn inboats up when just cruising and down when we are towing riders. I like the simplicity of the eq. I hope it works out for you using the MTC, I have never been a fan of Malibu stereo integration. In fact I have already seen a post on here with someone having issues with it... Hopefully it was a fluke incident... And hopefully they have improved it since the maliview setup.

Cory, as far as mounting it , I am a little concerned about location. Although, I think I will be able to make it work.

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My issue with the ZLD on the new boats is two fold: 1) lack of good mounting options with the new dash, 2) dueling master volume controls.

Perhaps someone more creative than me can figure out a good solution to issue #1. Issue #2 is troubling. Guaranteed different drivers will be messing with different knobs. The new ZLD does not allow you to push in the the master volume knob to conceal it. It will always be out on display, inviting someone to turn it. The sport knob has a huge "sticker" on it screaming "TURN ME, PLEASE!!!!" I think you will be constantly fighting those knobs, not knowing which knob has been turned by how much. You will reach for one knob, turn it, only to find out its maxed out and not the knob you need to turn.

I don't dispute the potential benefit of a good pre-driver. I'm hoping the noise issues on the new RFX6000 and MTC are improved such that a pre-driver is less important (hopefully).

That's my beef...

Did you honestly just say the word "sticker" in my thread?

Very subtle there... Very subtle...

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problem with the JL RLCs is the bang for the buck. If we operate on the assumption that IXFE can get an exile bro deal (let's make a reasonable guess of $200 for a ZLD), and the two RLCs (tower and sub.... which also require specific tower and sub amps) are $70, that's only a $130 delta. $130 for the added SQ benefit of the line driver cannot be understated. Or how about the clarion EQ, which is $75 or less ($53 today! http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-EQS746-Graphic-Equalizer-Crossover/dp/B000EZV3T8)...

Yes I know I know, there's also PAC LC-1s (very nice units for what they are (but those require lots of long RCA runs, exacerbating the factory HU's low voltage output).

Kicker ZXM RLC would also do exactly the same thing as the two JL RLCs, but with any amps.

I totally get the "giant knob" thing. I still think for someone used to fingertip control of the zones, one knob on one hand and then a touch screen with the other hand would be annoying / super irritating. I could be wrong tho!

Laughing... Bro deals and stickers... Damn I missed this place!

Soooo... I don't think I'll be mucking much with the MTC. All you need it for is to choose your source (how often do you really do that) and adjust fade, bass, treb, etc. (I already established that I won't be doing much of that, especially considering the higher mounting locations in the G4). I anticipate the majority of stereo control (volume, mute, track selection, etc.) to happen on the left, at the knob/iPhone location.

If I'm wrong (very possible) it's an easy fix... A ZLD will be promptly mounted in the same spot I put it last year. I'm with Cory though... my #1 reason for avoiding it is NOT wanting dueling master volume controls.

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Laughing... Bro deals and stickers... Damn I missed this place!

Soooo... I don't think I'll be mucking much with the MTC. All you need it for is to choose your source (how often do you really do that) and adjust fade, bass, treb, etc. (I already established that I won't be doing much of that, especially considering the higher mounting locations in the G4). I anticipate the majority of stereo control (volume, mute, track selection, etc.) to happen on the left, at the knob/iPhone location.

If I'm wrong (very possible) it's an easy fix... A ZLD will be promptly mounted in the same spot I put it last year. I'm with Cory though... my #1 reason for avoiding it is NOT wanting dueling master volume controls.

totally get it. The clarion deck on my mb had fixed output rcas (loud all the time, volume knob on HU didn't do anything). I'm gonna miss that.

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SQ on sat radio is boo-tay. Somewhere between AM and FM. Nowhere near 128kps mp3.

If you get a subscription to Spotify, you can download a playlist you choose at whatever quality you choose (I think up to 320KPS), and play it later, even without reception. SInce most of my lakes have crappy phone reception, this has been a nice way to shake up the playlist.

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iTunes Radio seems to do better with new songs than Pandora... It has the occasional Ad (there is no subscription option), not as bad as Pandora. I got a Pandora subscription awhile back, super cheap and worth it IMO.

Wife has Spotify so we sometimes use that, I haven't played with it too much.

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ahopkins22LSV

How much more is the G4 than the G3.2?[/quote

About $3500 is what my dealer told me

ame="Sunscape fan" post="782985" timestamp="1418280117]

The option sheet I have says $4487.

These prices for a bare tower? Or with what speaker/rack/bimini options? Could be the difference.

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4487 for just the tower upgrade.

Talking to my friends who have other brands, that's pretty much right in line with what they were charged for their tower upgrades, so it's a industry wide avg.

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The MSRP for the G4 and accessories is as follows:

  • G4 Tower: $5,833
  • Z5 Cargo Bimini: $4,167
  • PTM Clamp Racks (1st set): $1,200/ea. rack
  • PTM Clamp Racks (2nd set): $2,083/ea. rack
  • Rev 8's (1st set): $1,808
  • Rev 8's (2nd set): $1,708
  • Swivel mounts: $500
  • Tower lights: $467

Keep in mind, those are MSRP's. What your dealer actually charges you is an entirely different story.

It's funny, we throw the phrase "butt hurt" around on this forum a lot. From hear on out, I propose that phrase be used only when describing the price of QUAD clamping racks. Hopefully now you understand why I won't be having them this year. :cry:

Edited by IXFE
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The MSRP for the G4 and accessories is as follows:

  • G4 Tower: $5,833
  • Z5 Cargo Bimini: $4,167
  • PTM Clamp Racks (1st set): $1,200/ea. rack
  • PTM Clamp Racks (2nd set): $2,083/ea. rack
  • Rev 8's (1st set): $1,808
  • Rev 8's (2nd set): $1,708
  • Swivel mounts: $500
  • Tower lights: $467

Keep in mind, those are MSRP's. What your dealer actually charges you is an entirely different story.

It's funny, we throw the phrase "butt hurt" around on this forum a lot. From hear on out, I propose that phrase be used only when describing the price of QUAD clamping racks. Hopefully now you understand why I won't be having them this year. :cry:

Why is the 2nd set of PTM racks nearly twice the price?

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