2015 23 LSV has arrived in NC

[oldjeep]

I guess my main concern is whether there is enough of a gap between the 1/4 turn handle and the valve body to be able to mount through that panel. I image that panel is fairly thin.

Curious what the reasoning is for putting a water fill port near the majority of the expensive electronics?

[shawndoggy]

cory I don't think that would work. The side panel is the same thickness as the kick panel. just the thickness of the nap of the carpet is probably too much.

[Cory]

That is sort of my point (not exactly). I want the fill port up in the bow where the bow bag is located. I also want a shut off valve in case the pump switch is pressed when no bag is connected. Hence, I'm putting a 1/4 turn shut off valve in-line. Eddie's location of the fill port seems like a good location for the shut off value. I'm not concerned about the shut off valve failing.

[thtrog]

Curious what the reasoning is for putting a water fill port near the majority of the expensive electronics?

The factory ballast and bilge hoses come right up under the helm, most heaters are under there.

[thtrog]

Cory, look at the first picture...there's enough headroom up above the panel you could mount a valve.

[Cory]

cory I don't think that would work. The side panel is the same thickness as the kick panel. just the thickness of the nap of the carpet is probably too much.

Ya, you may be right. I've been contemplating putting that valve on the end of the pipe near the cup-holders, but mounting to that panel would be cleaner and give me the driver control over ensuring it is closed/opened at the appropriate times.

[thtrog]

Eddie, have you trained that dog to pose for the camera? That dog is always "vogue-ing" in every shot you post.

Ha, He's a super little dog...he loves the boat!

[oldjeep]

The factory ballast and bilge hoses come right up under the helm, most heaters are under there.

Sure - I'm more thinking about what happens when that pump is on and the hose you have plugged into it comes loose or springs a leak.

[Cory]

Cory, look at the first picture...there's enough headroom up above the panel you could mount a valve.

Ok, that is a possibility. Makes the valve a little more hidden from view. Still need to figure out how to mount it though.

[shawndoggy]

Ya, you may be right. I've been contemplating putting that valve on the end of the pipe near the cup-holders, but mounting to that panel would be cleaner and give me the driver control over ensuring it is closed/opened at the appropriate times.

I think the 3 way bosworth sealect valve would work better and look cleaner given than it's designed to mount through a panel. You'd just need to come up with a way to plug the unused second output.

[Cory]

Sure - I'm more thinking about what happens when that pump is on and the hose you have plugged into it comes loose or springs a leak.

Then the water would just dump onto the floor near Eddie's feet. No big deal I think.

[Cory]

I think the 3 way bosworth sealect valve would work better and look cleaner given than it's designed to mount through a panel. You'd just need to come up with a way to plug the unused second output.

I was thinking about that and plugging the third port would be easy. I was looking for an alternative cause the extra position of the valve may lead to user confusion, but I suppose I'll be the main user of the valve.

[shawndoggy]

I think the 3 way bosworth sealect valve would work better and look cleaner given than it's designed to mount through a panel. You'd just need to come up with a way to plug the unused second output.

Actually you could just plumb the second output into a wye back into your feed line.

Edited January 29, 2015 by shawndoggy

[shawndoggy]

I was thinking about that and plugging the third port would be easy. I was looking for an alternative cause the extra position of the valve may lead to user confusion, but I suppose I'll be the main user of the valve.

The valve only has two positions. One would be "on" (or open) the other would be "off" (or recirc in my example). You'd also have the ability to add a second bag (albeit with the loss of the cutoff valve feature) too.

Edited January 29, 2015 by shawndoggy

[thtrog]

[boardjnky4]

We may need to do some testing before then

I'm down!

[wakedncsu]

Will he be attending the INT tournaments this summer? I hope so.

[shawndoggy]

is that the factory flush kit location or is that an MLA add too?

[boardjnky4]

That quick disconnect is pretty cool. Looks like it's a johnson product. Really good idea!

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pumps-61121-Deckwash-Fitting/dp/B00AJVJ45M/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Q9Z75WQETMQZ7M77H26

Does it seal off when not in use? ie, if you hit the switch on accident will it spray everywhere?

Edited January 29, 2015 by boardjnky4

[Fman]

Eddie, I like your setup, but it has given me an idea for a slightly modified version of it for my bow ballast installation.

1) I think I will copy your location of the ballast switch

2) I think I will try to install one of these valves ( http://www.wakemakers.com/pvc-ball-valve.html ) where you installed the fill port and have just the 1/4 turn handle poke out from the backside of the panel. I'll use half-round pipe clamps on the backside to mount the valve to the back of the panel (maybe thru bolt them), but I"ll have the hose run from the valve up under the gunnel to the where the cup-holders in the bow are located. Then, I'll mount one of these fittings ( http://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-pro-x-series-fitting-w748.html ) to that end for connecting to a short line that I will permanently connect to my bow triangle bag.

Anyone have any thoughts on this???

UPDATED: one of the links didn't work at first

Cory, I have been giving this some thought over the past week. I will be using that w748 male fitting for my connection.

Looking at different options I think I have narrowed it down to something that will work for me. First, I don't want an open ended connection that can flow water into the bow or cabin area incase a switch malfunctions or someone actually turns it on without the fill line connected. What I will more than likely do is plumb in a line to an existing outside thru hull drain (tap in with a "Y" connection, super easy). This line will have a quick disconnect on it and I will plug it in to fitting when not using the remote fill line. When I want to use the remote fill line for front bag, I can easily disconnect the vent line, connect my fill line, use it and when I am finished I can reconnect the vent line again. The vent line will always be connected incase water flows it will divert out the thru hull on the side of the boat. Another option is to install a "Y" selector valve and have it set for the vent line or fill line for bow bag. Either will work, the selector valve is probably the cleaner way to go which I might end up doing.

I am planning on mounting all three Johnson pump switches and the stereo on/off switch on the side carpeted panel that thtrog is using for his toggle (assuming the VLX also has this panel which I am hopeful). From pics, I like the quick disconnect being in that location, its easy to access and also allows you to fill bags in the cabin area if ever desired....but until I get to climb around in the boat I wont have a final decision made yet.

Is AWS doing your install or are you going to get your hands dirty?

Edited January 29, 2015 by Fman

[Cory]

is that the factory flush kit location or is that an MLA add too?

Yes, factory flush kit (transom install). I ordered it on my 2013 and ordered it again on my 2015.

[shawndoggy]

I will be DIY'ing my flush kit. I mounted roughly where it's pictured there on my MB. Anybody have thoughts on doing it dead center, like directly under the grab handle? I figure that way it keeps the hose out of the locker and only in the engine compartment.

[thtrog]

That quick disconnect is pretty cool. Looks like it's a johnson product. Really good idea!

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pumps-61121-Deckwash-Fitting/dp/B00AJVJ45M/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Q9Z75WQETMQZ7M77H26

Does it seal off when not in use? ie, if you hit the switch on accident will it spray everywhere?

That quick disconnect is pretty cool. Looks like it's a johnson product. Really good idea!

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pumps-61121-Deckwash-Fitting/dp/B00AJVJ45M/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Q9Z75WQETMQZ7M77H26

Does it seal off when not in use? ie, if you hit the switch on accident will it spray everywhere?

It is just a cover, I'm very comfortable with the switch location for my use. After seeing your link it looks like Johnson offers another kit that has a short capped fitting that would work. If I'm out with a group of kids, like at WTW, I'll just cut off the valve at the intake. I see others concern and it makes for some good conversation.

[thtrog]

I will be DIY'ing my flush kit. I mounted roughly where it's pictured there on my MB. Anybody have thoughts on doing it dead center, like directly under the grab handle? I figure that way it keeps the hose out of the locker and only in the engine compartment.

Cory's correct it's factory, I'll have to look at the hose routing as I've never noticed it in the locker.

[thtrog]

Will he be attending the INT tournaments this summer? I hope so.

I hope so too, not sure how he would make it in the heat all day. I'm sure some of the INT family would watch him on shore if needed.