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ETX Cat Cooling system upgrade


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On 6/1/2019 at 2:46 AM, h2oskinut said:

On a slightly different topic:

I have the Maliview digital dash / digital temp gauge, on these gauges, the sensitivity & hysteresis is programmed into the "computer" rather than a simple analog gauge.

Do others notice after the boat is warmed up, the temp typically moves around maybe 5-10 degrees after starting, stopping, high/low RPM?

 

Typically fine when yuo stop the engine, the temp goes up about 10 degrees, as soon as yuo start the engine & the water starts circulating it drops back.

Glad you found the old thermostat was still good. Just because you buy a new one, doesnt mean it is better, should be & last longer but not always the case

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  • 1 month later...

Would like to add that I just had a manifold split inside on 6/8 cylinder.  Seems to be the side that overheats and cracks the most.  Just ordered this kit for 120 from bakes. 

 

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  • 2 months later...
  • 7 months later...
On 9/26/2019 at 10:59 AM, asnowman said:

If anyone is interested, i have the hoses and brass elbows for this modification.  Traded in the boat before installing the upgrade this summer.  Happy to sell the parts, and ship it.

@braindamage

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  • 3 weeks later...

Does anyone have a better install diagram or pictures of their install?  2011 23LSV with 350 monsoon.   Purchased a re plumb kit, i cant make sense of the diagram provided by bakes.   To begin the season, had an over torqued bolt break off the impeller housing and had water shoot out once the gasket broke.   replaced gasket and bolt.   Got a new thermostat hose from bake but still want to install this kit.   

On another note, when the impeller housing was leaking water, engine temp never went over 160, exhaust manifolds got scarred pretty good.   Is there any sensors i should be worried about or need to replace?   Boats running fine now but want to get this kit installed to keep manifolds cooler as they are still pretty warm when running.  

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

A good ol thread revival! Doing this modification to my 07 23lsv and it had the 90 degree hose going into the t stat housing. After doing the re route If I’m following correctly the new routing takes the hose from top of exhaust manifold to the bottom of the ss 45 fitting. Do you see any reason not to repurpose the 90degree hose I have which is a way shorter run vs using the 51” hose with the kit?   https://flic.kr/p/2m4Vinh

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3 hours ago, bass10a said:

A good ol thread revival! Doing this modification to my 07 23lsv and it had the 90 degree hose going into the t stat housing. After doing the re route If I’m following correctly the new routing takes the hose from top of exhaust manifold to the bottom of the ss 45 fitting. Do you see any reason not to repurpose the 90degree hose I have which is a way shorter run vs using the 51” hose with the kit?   https://flic.kr/p/2m4Vinh

think that's a formed hose but if it works and doesn't create the opportunity for air pockets, go for it I guess.

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spacer.png

11 hours ago, bass10a said:

Somehow I can’t seem to get pictures to embed in the post 😭😩

Have to dig the image URL out of all the other garbage they give you when you try to share.  Copy the whole string somewhere, then only take the img src part with ".jpg" on it.

Whole URL from flickr share | embed:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/184447962@N03/51240176750/in/photostream/" title="Malibu exhaust"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51240176750_60fb811c9b_c.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="Malibu exhaust"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

I took: 

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51240176750_60fb811c9b_c.jpg

 

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12 hours ago, UWSkier said:

think that's a formed hose but if it works and doesn't create the opportunity for air pockets, go for it I guess.

Correct it is a formed 90, I didn’t know it mattered as there is other parts in the kit like a formed 180 and this was used prior just connected differently.  Do you see a potential issue?  I’m mechanical but not a mechanic.  Just enough to be dangerous 

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well, I'd replace the hoses with the stuff in the kit just because it's new, but that's just me.  I've never done one of these updates but I read about it a bit last year for a friend.  Seems pretty straighforward

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On 5/17/2019 at 3:21 PM, h2oskinut said:

Just checked the trans cooler every passage was completely clear.

Took the cover off the raw water pump, it looks good -  Never seen one "kinda work / either good or bad in my opinion.

I am thinking it must be the engine circulating pump. I am going order one now unless someone else has something else to check. 

BTW my driver's heater does not work and it looks like it runs off the engine circulating pump (it worked when I first bought the boat, but so little heat it was basically useless).

Does anyone have a part # for the engine circ pump?

Is there a SIERRA part?     I have always had GREAT luck with SIERRA parts in the past.

 

 

 

There was a recall for engine circulating pumps on some 2012 indmar 5.7L.  The impeller inside would crack in half.

Check your engine serial number - this covers Engine serial numbers 170158 - 172350.  If it is in that range they may owe you a new pump

 

Edited by oldjeep
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  • 4 weeks later...

Did this upgrade over the weekend, following the diagram and the pictures in this thread.  Was straight forward but frankly, the circulation seems a bit weird to me.  It fired up no problem and its evident how more water will be dumped overboard.  I didn't get a chance to run it for a long time to see if any performance issues have popped up, but seems fine.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm thinking of doing this reroute to our boat and I'll be replacing the 90 degree nylon elbows at the same time.  Is it ok to use Permatex copper on the threads when I install the new elbows?  Seems like that would be ok but thought I'd ask.

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3 hours ago, 1984ta said:

I'm thinking of doing this reroute to our boat and I'll be replacing the 90 degree nylon elbows at the same time.  Is it ok to use Permatex copper on the threads when I install the new elbows?  Seems like that would be ok but thought I'd ask.

those elbows are nylon for an intended point  if failure i believe?

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6 minutes ago, granddaddy55 said:

those elbows are nylon for an intended point  if failure i believe?

That's definitely the reason they're nylon, I was asking if I could use Permatex copper on the threads vs teflon tape or something along those lines.

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9 minutes ago, 1984ta said:

That's definitely the reason they're nylon, I was asking if I could use Permatex copper on the threads vs teflon tape or something along those lines.

You could probably use that if you don't want to use tape.  I'm not really sure you need anything at all since the nylon will distort and fill the voids.

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18 minutes ago, 1984ta said:

That's definitely the reason they're nylon, I was asking if I could use Permatex copper on the threads vs teflon tape or something along those lines.

Yes - I used permatex copper on my inlaws LXI when I replaced the manifolds.  Everything got it, no issues

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  • 2 weeks later...

I know this is an older post but wondering if this re-plumb kit is valid for the 2012 L96 engine (6.0L)?

Also, it looks like my engine serial number is 170655 (or maybe 170653; the sticker is a bit burnt) and @oldjeep mentioned the 5.7L engines from Serial numbers 170158 - 172350 had bad engine circulating pumps. Not sure if this also applies to the 6.0L engines since my serial number falls within the above?

My problem: I bought the boat last year with 45 hours on it, yes a 2012 that was barely used. This season I have used a good bit but as the weather got warmer I started blowing through silicone wet exhaust hoses. My engine temperature is fine and steady at 160.  

 

 

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The circulation pump replacement bulletin SB2013-1 and the recommended ETX CAT exhaust replumb update only apply to the 5.7L engine, not the 6.0L engine.

There is a required water flow change bulletin SB2012-3MB for 6.0L engines in your serial range.  It basically involves replacing the thermostat housing, some hoses, removing a plug in the block behind the Tstat housing, and recalibration of the ECM.  A kit is available from Indmar for the cooling system parts.  Unfortunately, since this isn't a U.S. Coast Guard recall, and your engine warranty has likely expired by now, you will be on the hook to pay to get it done if it hasn't been done already.

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