ETX Cat Cooling system upgrade

[h2oskinut]

Does anyone have any pics of the upgrade ?

I have the 5.7 350 direct drive not V drive engine looks like the picture Andrew63 submitted.

 

Thanks, in advance,

Jon

 

[Andrew63]

Sorry, Boat is 3 hours away & didn't take any when I changed.

But, looking over some old posts I found there are 2 versions of this upgrade.

SmoothWaterMan posted a diagram in the 2nd post of this topic, which is when Indmar started using metal pipe in sections

My 4th post in this topic has images from boats advertised where I picked up the hose change as there are 2 verions,

1st pic is the SmothWaterMan version, where the last 2 are the verion G-Mac posted which I used

 

G-Mac posted a diagram at post 16 of this topic the other option.

I went with this option & it runs cool, Can put my hand on the CAT manifolds after a slow surf plough run. About as hot a a hot cup of coffee

 

 

Another good source to verify the prefered option is Engine Nut, he works for Indmar.

 

Found an interesting comment from Engine Nut in this thread. May look at a hotter thermostat to keep it above 140 degrees

 

[Andrew63]

Just receiver a reply from Larry @ Indmar on the preferred version of this upgrade which is below in italic

The re plumb upgrade as G-Mac posted (can find it in the link above

The preferred plumbing for a 5.7L with catalyst exhaust (2007 and newer models) is the ETX CAT Water Flow RWC-Re-Plumb.

That plumbing change by itself should not make the engine run cooler … it just redirected water flow through the exhaust manifolds allowing them to run cooler.

Larry Engelbert

Indmar Marine Engines

[gorilla]

Well, I did the update on my 2007 and it had a hard time staying at 160° in cold water. I did a brand new thermostat at the time since all hoses were off. In central WA, the Fish and Game liked to keep the river below 70°. The boat would constantly dip down to 130°-ish and then come back up to 160° after the thermostat closed. The warm exhaust helped "stabilize" the block temp. So, swapped it back after 1 season up there. A warm block meant a nice warm shower after a run in the cold water. I'm sure my buddy who owns it now (we all live in AZ now) could put back in the update and it would be fine in AZ water temps. 

[obaro15]

Both of my plastic exhaust elbows (07 vlx) melted when Surfing this weekend. The engine temp was right around 145 and no alarms went off. I double checked my raw water pump and impeller and then replaced the plastic elbows. I started up the boat today and both manifolds get hot enough to steam off water.  Should this be expected? Engine temp is still remaining constant at 145.  I did get the upgraded cooling parts but they wont in till next week....

[obaro15]

FYI for anyone considering this upgrade, DO IT!  I completed the upgrade over the weekend.  I ordered the dayton hoses from rockauto and picked up 12 ft of 1 inch heater hose from autozone.  Overall it cost me $40 and took about an hour.  Prior to the upgrade my cats were hot to the touch when the motor was at temp.  When surfing the cats and engine compartment were very hot, to the point of melting the plastic elbows.   After the upgrade I can surf all day and touch the cats afterwards with no issues.  Overall well worth it for those who surf!

[saxton15]

@obaro15 do you mind listing the links to the rockauto part?  I've seen the cooling kit from Bakes and it's $120.

 

[obaro15]

sure it is DAYCO 70564, price of $6.77 and you will need 2 of them.

[mackie12]

I also did this to my Response, bought the kit from Bakes. way cooler under the hood now!

[funlife]

Have had this issue for years, with the 'conditional' overheating. An infrared temp sensor led me to the center hose getting hot, due to the flow from the manifolds back into the thermostat housing. Changed plenty of water moving parts, and once I saw the temp (via infrared temp sensor - harborfreight - $25), it led me to an issue with the exhaust manifolds.

Parts on order (small "c" hoses, autozone had heater hose, so just waiting for the "c" hoses). Plan on changing the plumbing when parts arrive. Look forward to the marked improvement!

Here is my post and history:

 

 

Edited August 9, 2018 by funlife

[h2oskinut]

For about 2 years after running at 3k RPM, then to idle my temp gauge goes up to about 170-180 and slowly comes back to a bit over 160, it has been doing this for 2 years.

When I winterized the boat last fall I put in a new thermostat and installed the cooling upgrade - now it is WORSE than ever - now it goes to 190+.

I am not sure if I have all the hoses on correctly... And none of the pictures that I have seen show all the hose connections - I bought the "real" kit from an online dealer not sure who anymore w/o looking it up.

Here is a link to my website showing the way I connected everything, please let me know if you think I have anything wrong.

If you click the images they will enlarge. All the hoses are marked on the drawings 

https://prswatersports.com/TxiReplumb/

Edit 5/19/19:  The hoses have been confirmed to be connected correctly in these pictures... 

Thank you in advance Jon

Edited May 19, 2019 by h2oskinut
Clarify for those that may be interested in the re-plumb

[hawaiianstyln]

your install appears to be correct, are you sure you don't have any impeller particles lodged at the screen in the Tranny Cooler?  Do you have a sea strainer somewhere inline to your system and if so check to see if it needs to be cleaned.  If your engine temp gets to 190 how hot are your Exhaust Risers?  still cool to touch?

Edited May 17, 2019 by hawaiianstyln

[ahopkins22LSV]

Was the correct thermostat I talked? 160* one?

[h2oskinut]

Thanks, everyone for the replies.

No sea strainer.

I have taken out apart the lines to the trans cooler to check for debris in the past.

I did have an impeller come apart once, was the maiden voyage I bought the boat used in 2015.

The Exhaust Risers are fairly cool to touch, MUCH cooler than in the past.

Is it possible to put the thermostat in upside down? (I doubt I did this but is it possible)

------ 

I guess at this point I will check the trans cooler screen again

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

For reference these are the parts I installed:

THERMOSTAT SKU: SIERRA-18-43017  1      $14.48

Replaces: Mercury 863358, 863358T Indmar S985009

RE PLUMB KIT:  SKU: IND-495180        1        $108.00

 

 

[hawaiianstyln]

12 minutes ago, h2oskinut said:

Is it possible to put the thermostat in upside down?

 

 

 

doubt you put it upside down because if you are saying the temp rises, but slowly comes back down to 160, then the Tstat is working as designed and seated properly

[h2oskinut]

Just checked the trans cooler every passage was completely clear.

Took the cover off the raw water pump, it looks good -  Never seen one "kinda work / either good or bad in my opinion.

I am thinking it must be the engine circulating pump. I am going order one now unless someone else has something else to check. 

BTW my driver's heater does not work and it looks like it runs off the engine circulating pump (it worked when I first bought the boat, but so little heat it was basically useless).

Does anyone have a part # for the engine circ pump?

Is there a SIERRA part?     I have always had GREAT luck with SIERRA parts in the past.

 

 

 

[Andrew63]

2 hours ago, h2oskinut said:

I am thinking it must be the engine circulating pump. I am going order one now unless someone else has something else to check. 

BTW my driver's heater does not work and it looks like it runs off the engine circulating pump (it worked when I first bought the boat, but so little heat it was basically useless).

 

 

 

 

Hose positions are correct, I used industrial heater hose from a local supplier which are red so it stands out where the hoses go. can't fathom how to post a pic.

The thermostat is an easy item to acess, I had a New troublesome thermostat a few years back. Put the new one in, ran OK for a few hours then started getting high temps.Replace the thermostat with the old one & worked as it should so ended up buying another thermostat to keep as a back up & changed with the next service.

If the circulating pump impeller cracked as these are just cast iron, unlikley but possable as it has happened previously with another member, you would have OK to ideal temps while underway as the water being forced through the engine from the pick u would cool the engine.

But when you stop you would soon get the overheating alarm.

I would try the thermostat first as this is a quick change & if only recenly done, you may salvage the gasket. Pointed part of the thermostat points upwards with the squarish side pointing down.

If you kept the old thermostat, assuuming it worked & the change was just while I have it apart may as well fit a new one, try this first.

[h2oskinut]

Andrew63,

The problem existed with both the old thermostat and the new one, I am thinking with the new plumbing the water pressure to the thermostat is less as less restriction of the water to the exhaust manifolds is causing the problem to be amplified. It is doing the exact same thing except going to a higher temp and not coming down as quickly.  I have only run it at 32mph for 1/3 mile stretches so for skiing it is likely to get hotter. The temp alarm has not come on yet.

As the hose connections are verified, and the trans cooler is not blocked seems the only logical thing next is the engine circ. pump.

I ordered a new Circ Pump, in the meantime, I will put the old Thermo back in to see if it improves (I read where Indmar was drilling holes in the thermos to increase cooling with the old plumbing) so It may be better than my non-drilled one.

Thanks, everyone for the advice.

Jon

 

[h2oskinut]

Not fully resolved, this is an FYI update for those that may have similar problems...

I just got off the phone with Larry at Indmar 901-203-4736.

Using my serial number he told me that my 2011 engine used an Aluminum thermostat housing that had a passage drilled in it, He sent me pictures of this, and I added the pictures he sent me to my website: https://prswatersports.com/TxiReplumb/

He stated if a re-plumb is done this hole should be closed using approximately a 3/16" self-tapping screw.

He also informed me that there were issues with some to the engine circulating pumps used around the 2011 time frame. The pump may spin but the rubber may not spin or part of the impeller breaks off.  He also stated that if the heater is not working that is also an indication of a bad Circ. pump.

Jon

 

[JasonK]

I thought the circulation pump didn't use rubber. It's a metal impeller isn't it?

The raw water pump has a rubber impeller, no?

[h2oskinut]

Not sure if the circulating pump is metal I will find out and post when I take the old one off. The raw water is rubber.

Wondering - what about plugging the thermostat housing hole with JB Weld?

Jon

[Andrew63]

On 5/21/2019 at 11:50 AM, h2oskinut said:

Not sure if the circulating pump is metal I will find out and post when I take the old one off. The raw water is rubber.

Wondering - what about plugging the thermostat housing hole with JB Weld?

Jon

Jon

I take it the photo you posted showing the housing came from Lary as the hole drilled looks new with no paint.

So this should be pluggged. Never noticed the hole in my 2011RLXI, may not have it. Larry would be the knowledge base on the engines.

So you would expect when you change the circulation pump. this will be when you plug this hole. I am interested if you have the hole as to me the pic posted shows a new drilled hole.

Larry definatly said this should be plugged with the upgrade, not the reverse drilled?

If plugged, put a screw in it as this will never fall off. Don;t know much about JB Weld apart from it is a miricle fix but I perfer solid metal to a liquid/paste that hardens

[h2oskinut]

Update:

I believe a 2011 engine may or may not have the hole in the thermostat housing (the pic was from Indmar, a new part, I assume it was from a manufacturing instruction at the factory). With your engine serial number, Larry can tell you if it was done to your housing - it is also obvious if you look at the inside of your housing. The hole SHOULD BE PLUGGED if you put the NEW PLUMBING KIT on.

The circ pump has a metal center that spins inside, I could not tell if there is any rubber inside it.

 

So I put the new Circ pump on, new raw water impeller, plugged the thermostat housing hole with a screw, and my problems continued.

I put the old thermostat back in and my temp has been fine since, so I would not recommend the Seiarra brand thermostat, not sure why the Indmar one has to cost $45???

(I do still think that my old Circ pump was bad)

 

 

On a slightly different topic:

I have the Maliview digital dash / digital temp gauge, on these gauges, the sensitivity & hysteresis is programmed into the "computer" rather than a simple analog gauge.

Do others notice after the boat is warmed up, the temp typically moves around maybe 5-10 degrees after starting, stopping, high/low RPM?

 

[blk93jeepzj]

15 minutes ago, h2oskinut said:

So I put the new Circ pump on, new raw water impeller, plugged the thermostat housing hole with a screw, and my problems continued.

I put the old thermostat back in and my temp has been fine since, so I would not recommend the Seiarra brand thermostat, not sure why the Indmar one has to cost $45???

(I do still think that my old Circ pump was bad)

 

Around 2012 there was a bad batch of circulating pumps.  There was a service bulletin for a recall, part number stamped on the rear SS cover on my pump that failed was 11320P03U.

Opened mine up and it looked like this.

[h2oskinut]

Mine was not broken like that, maybe it was okay, however, it turned with more resistance than the new one.