Michigan Boarder Engine Blueprint and Build

[WheelerWake]

internal.

So, you going to make the old flywheel neutral or get a new one?

[MalibuNation]

Sarge, that's just for the first day.

Oberon, big surprise.

[sgt1970-442]

So, you going to make the old flywheel neutral or get a new one?

flywheel will be neutral. balancing the complete rotating assembly as one we feel is the best balancing option.

need to take the crank, one piston, one rod, one rod bearing, one ring set, flywheel, drive plate, harmonic balancer, pulleys and all the bolts.

will also get a bob weight when this is done.

malibunation, 1/4 barrel will last about 2-3 hours around my place depending on who shows up.

[Michigan boarder]

flywheel will be neutral. balancing the complete rotating assembly as one we feel is the best balancing option.

need to take the crank, one piston, one rod, one rod bearing, one ring set, flywheel, drive plate, harmonic balancer, pulleys and all the bolts.

will also get a bob weight when this is done.

Could you explain that in further detail? How does it all get measured & balanced?

[sgt1970-442]

Could you explain that in further detail? How does it all get measured & balanced?

john, this can explain it better than I can. kind of on the order of why a tire is balanced. difference is what you do to one end of the crank, you must do to the other where a tire is balanced by adding weight to one side of the wheel to help balance imperfections in the tire.

we did get some work done before the game yesterday. I knocked the cam bearings and freeze plugs out. we like to do this instead of the machine shop. we also reinstall them for reasons of cleaning after all the machine work is done. one of the side plugs was really thin and i'm surprised that mercury did not use brass plugs. also mocked up where we need to clearance the block for the longer stroke. we realized its going to take a larger machine than our Bridgeport to do this work. found this video for what will need to be done. clearances needed at the cam tunnel and outsides of the block and pan rail. notice the brass freeze plugs. only thoughts I have here is,, all of the machining should have been done before those freeze plugs went back in

if you notice the pile of rust and flake on the floor, thus the importance of flush your motor as often as you can. I sweeped up about 5 piles like that.

Edited February 3, 2014 by sgt1970-442

[formulaben]

if you notice the pile of rust and flake on the floor, thus the importance of flush your motor as often as you can. I sweep up about 5 piles like that.

Was this engine operated in salt water?

[sgt1970-442]

Was this engine operated in salt water?

not that I am aware of. Michiganboarder might be able to answer this better than I can.

[Michigan boarder]

not that I am aware of. Michiganboarder might be able to answer this better than I can.

Not that I know of either. Not by me since '08 and not by the guy before me since '02. None of the rest of the boat looks corroded either, nor the trailer (at least not anymore than you'd expect from a 20 year old boat).

[Michigan boarder]

OK, finally had a chance to watch the vids, that makes sense. Thanks Sgt.

On the corrosion, not sure what's up with that. But I can say it is the one reason that I like first started using antifreeze in the block for winterizing, so it wouldn't corrode all winter.

[Michigan boarder]

On my other bolt on's and on the tranny, what kind of paint should I use?

[sgt1970-442]

On my other bolt on's and on the tranny, what kind of paint should I use?

just a hi-temp black engine paint.

[Woodski]

@MB: you will want to do a good job on the repaint, making sure the surfaces are all really clean and you apply a good even coat(s) to the item you are painting. Remember, lots of moisture particularly at the bottom, so painting the bottom side of the tranny is a key. You have probably noticed that power plants for marine use have a much more complete paint job compared to your average automobile, specifically for the water > corrosion aspect. One key to a nice paint job is to go slow, don't rush or you will have runs.

[Michigan boarder]

@MB: you will want to do a good job on the repaint, making sure the surfaces are all really clean and you apply a good even coat(s) to the item you are painting. Remember, lots of moisture particularly at the bottom, so painting the bottom side of the tranny is a key. You have probably noticed that power plants for marine use have a much more complete paint job compared to your average automobile, specifically for the water > corrosion aspect. One key to a nice paint job is to go slow, don't rush or you will have runs.

Thanks Woodski, no problems there. I am a rattle can pro, and have done enough things twice to know how to do it right the first time: Wipe down with xylene, wire brush, wire wheel on a drill if major pitting, sandpaper, final xylene douse/wipe, 2 coats primer, 4 coats paint each one shortly after the first is no longer tacky (shaking car vigorously in between). Apply enough paint to keep a uniform "wet" look, keeping strokes even across the surface. The biggest challenge is getting a heated place for them to cure, likely my maintenance shop after hours. I'd rather put on 6 coats to get every nook than try to do it with 4 and get runs.

[JB-FOOT]

Thanks Woodski, no problems there. I am a rattle can pro, and have done enough things twice to know how to do it right the first time: Wipe down with xylene, wire brush, wire wheel on a drill if major pitting, sandpaper, final xylene douse/wipe, 2 coats primer, 4 coats paint each one shortly after the first is no longer tacky (shaking car vigorously in between). Apply enough paint to keep a uniform "wet" look, keeping strokes even across the surface. The biggest challenge is getting a heated place for them to cure, likely my maintenance shop after hours. I'd rather put on 6 coats to get every nook than try to do it with 4 and get runs.

Damn......after all of that....better UPGRADE to a CLEAR Lexan Motor Box.....

[nuttyskier2002]

It's been a while since I've posted but I've been kinda keeping up with this thread. I must say.....looks like you are going to have one fine engine in that boat! Maybe I've missed this MB....but did you decide on a set of heads yet? Vortecs?

Edited February 13, 2014 by nuttyskier2002

[nuttyskier2002]

Hey Sgt....I think I remember you mentioning earlier in the thread (back before the motor arrived at your place) that you were considering using 6.0" rods on this build. Any reason why you decided to go with the 5.7" rods instead?

[sgt1970-442]

Hey Sgt....I think I remember you mentioning earlier in the thread (back before the motor arrived at your place) that you were considering using 6.0" rods on this build. Any reason why you decided to go with the 5.7" rods instead?

biggest reason was almost all the pistons that can be used with a 6" rod have the piston pin into the oil ring. not a fan of that. I prefer the oil ring to be fully supported all the way around the piston. was going with a long rod for torque reasons but the longer stroke on the crank will make up for it. also with the shorter rod it will bring the rpms in a little faster. yes on the vortecs.

Edited February 13, 2014 by sgt1970-442

[nuttyskier2002]

Several months ago I announced that I was going to be taking on a project of converting over my 350 LCR powered 2006 Vride to a ~HH383. I use the ~ sign because it's not really going to be an HH because much of the parts I'm using are not supplied by Indmar or GM and there will be some differences. Sorry for the threadjack here......I will start a new thread for this........but before I do I just thought I'd test the water for anyone interested in following along. So how say you MBC?

[Bozboat]

Several months ago I announced that I was going to be taking on a project of converting over my 350 LCR powered 2006 Vride to a ~HH383. I use the ~ sign because it's not really going to be an HH because much of the parts I'm using are not supplied by Indmar or GM and there will be some differences. Sorry for the threadjack here......I will start a new thread for this........but before I do I just thought I'd test the water for anyone interested in following along. So how say you MBC?

Definitely yes, please start a thread. I need it to distract me from the Winter and if no rain soon, from the coming dry lake summer

Edited February 15, 2014 by Bozboat

[shawndoggy]

Several months ago I announced that I was going to be taking on a project of converting over my 350 LCR powered 2006 Vride to a ~HH383. I use the ~ sign because it's not really going to be an HH because much of the parts I'm using are not supplied by Indmar or GM and there will be some differences. Sorry for the threadjack here......I will start a new thread for this........but before I do I just thought I'd test the water for anyone interested in following along. So how say you MBC?

Oh heck yeah

[Baddog]

Several months ago I announced that I was going to be taking on a project of converting over my 350 LCR powered 2006 Vride to a ~HH383. I use the ~ sign because it's not really going to be an HH because much of the parts I'm using are not supplied by Indmar or GM and there will be some differences. Sorry for the threadjack here......I will start a new thread for this........but before I do I just thought I'd test the water for anyone interested in following along. So how say you MBC?

I'm in Nutty, I love these threads.

Makes me realize that although I know a lot more about engines than 98% of my friends, i don't really know squat. But I hope to learn me some squat. Thanks

[martinarcher]

2 engine build thread in 1 winter....this is the best winter yet.

[Michigan boarder]

Sgt - here's a picture of my old carb. Two different bolt patterns there, will one of those work with the Performer intake?

[Michigan boarder]

Just got off the phone with Summit, the order for the heads was hung up due to the mailing address different from the billing address. Not sure why it took them 3 days to figure that out, but the heads will ship today and arrive tomorrow or Friday.

[sgt1970-442]

thanks john, we are all set. I will get you a part number of the edelbrock manifold we will want.

it will be a performer rpm,,, a little different than the performer.

a little fyi, the carb is a square bore. the throttle blades are the same size front and rear.

the intake that came off of the engine is a spread bore,, that's where the front throttle blades

are smaller than the rear. reason I was asking is the performer comes in a spread bore version for the

vortec bolt pattern and the performer rpm only comes in a square bore pattern for the vortec heads.

are the heads ordered?

Edited February 19, 2014 by sgt1970-442