Amplifier addition

[MLA]

Same output as @ 2 ohm, so no advantage what so ever. That 12" you linked earlier would do well with 900W rms @ 2 ohm, and only requires a little larger enclosure then the 10.

[jshaff]

I'm going with the 10" and I think that will be a tight fit as it is.

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[MLA]

Jshaff,

Here's your answer to how a 12" will fit

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/classifieds/item/386-custom-12-enclosure-for-05-08-ride-series/#overview

Sealed enclosure side-loading 12"

[jshaff]

Yes ADDICTED2WAKE mentioned that he had that for sale, but i am going with a custom box behind the kickplate with the sub coming through the kickplate similar to http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/36381-floor-board-sub-woofer-upgrade-simple-improvement/page-2

[MLA]

I wasnt saying to buy his enclosure, just offering up an example that a 12 in a sealed enclosure could fit. The gross external dimensions wont change whether the woofer is side-loaded or radiating directly out into the main cabin. Thats all I was saying. With only the loss of a few inches of leg room, I think you could get a 2 ft3 in there.

[jshaff]

I wasnt saying to buy his enclosure, just offering up an example that a 12 in a sealed enclosure could fit. The gross external dimensions wont change whether the woofer is side-loaded or radiating directly out into the main cabin. Thats all I was saying. With only the loss of a few inches of leg room, I think you could get a 2 ft3 in there.

That is actually a good thought, but is it possible to move the kickplate forward? I am not sure exactly how it is secured other then there are some screws there.

[ADDICTED2WAKE]

When you remove the kick plate you'll see there is a channel on the inboard wall that sets up the angle and position of the kick plate. You could probably fab something up to allow it to move forward but on the outboard side, against the hull, there will be a gap to that little shelf. I'm not sure what you call that but it's the little step that houses the drivers cup holder. It's forward edge stops at the kick plate.

I'd take a photo to explain but don't have the boat here.

Edited December 2, 2013 by ADDICTED2WAKE

[ADDICTED2WAKE]

As I'm rereading your post I'm thinking you meant to say move the kick plate rearward??

In order to do this I think you'd have to either cut the kick plate and react pet or cut the "shelf"...

[jshaff]

Yes, that is what I meant toward the driver, that's why I would rather go with the 10" and hopefully not need to move it and lose legroom.

[ADDICTED2WAKE]

Do you have a heater? When I measured mine out I seem to recall being able to get more volume by having it face the driver. If you make it first out of cardboard to try different angles and shapes, I'm sure you could get a 12" and a couple cubic feet of space back there without moving the kick plate.

[jshaff]

Do you have a heater? When I measured mine out I seem to recall being able to get more volume by having it face the driver. If you make it first out of cardboard to try different angles and shapes, I'm sure you could get a 12" and a couple cubic feet of space back there without moving the kick plate.

I do not have a heater, so maybe I will end up going back to the 12.

[jshaff]

Same output as @ 2 ohm, so no advantage what so ever. That 12" you linked earlier would do well with 900W rms @ 2 ohm, and only requires a little larger enclosure then the 10.

You do not think getting the 4 ohm DVC and hooking it up at 900 RMS with this amp is too much? Or would I be better with the 2 Ohm DVC and getting 500W slightly less then the 600rms the sub is rated at?

[MLA]

That is actually a good thought, but is it possible to move the kickplate forward? I am not sure exactly how it is secured other then there are some screws there.

We've moved them out to make room for the enclosure as well as tilted them more vertical. Even then, it still retains a factory look and a small amount of lost leg room is rarely missed.

[MLA]

You do not think getting the 4 ohm DVC and hooking it up at 900 RMS with this amp is too much? Or would I be better with the 2 Ohm DVC and getting 500W slightly less then the 600rms the sub is rated at?

The 10" you linked driven at 900W IMO is too much, as its thermal capacity (peak wattas) is 1000W. The 12" in that same series, has a peak of 1200W. 900W rms to it would be great. So if you go with the 10", get the 2 ohm DVC and run it in series @ 4 ohm for 500W rms. If you go with the 12", get the 4 ohm dvc and wire it in parallel @ 2 ohm for 900W rms.

[jshaff]

When mounting the amp to the front wall of the port locker do you need to countersink?

Also are there any special steps for drilling a whole in the port locker floor to prevent cracking?

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[jshaff]

 

I used 1" wood screws.  They were deep enough to get through the amp holes and carpet with enough bite into the wood without penetrating the back of the vinyl.  Also, I used a small buss bar for my amp(s) turn-on.  That way I would have an easy way to add additional stuff in the future.  I've got three amps, a Memphis Bass Enhancer and a Wetsounds 420SQ so I also added a relay.  You won't need the relay if your just powering a couple of things.  Running one wire from your deck to a buss bar inside the storage locker would be very easy.

Is this wood by default of did you put an amp board there I just don't want to start drilling and be surprised by fiberglass I will be starting the project tomorrow.

[Zombie]

Is this wood by default of did you put an amp board there I just don't want to start drilling and be surprised by fiberglass I will be starting the project tomorrow.

That was right in to the helm board, I didn't use a separate amp board. The reason I ended up mounting my amps (and everything associated with them) under the drivers side was because I originally had a stereo shop do the install. Amps under the drivers side and two 10" Focal subs in my port locker with the batteries. The stereo shop did such a poor job that I ended up redoing everything regarding the amps and wiring. I liked the way the subs sounded and their location so I left them as is.

[jshaff]

 

That was right in to the helm board, I didn't use a separate amp board.  The reason I ended up mounting my amps (and everything associated with them) under the drivers side was because I originally had a stereo shop do the install.  Amps under the drivers side and two 10" Focal subs in my port locker with the batteries.  The stereo shop did such a poor job that I ended up redoing everything regarding the amps and wiring.  I liked the way the subs sounded and their location so I left them as is.

Sorry, but is the helmboard fiberglass or wood, I just want an idea of what I am going to be drilling into.

[Zombie]

Mine is wood.

[jshaff]

Update on the project, I am almost completed (got delayed a few weeks because of work) and wanted to thank everyone for the help and post some pictures. Is it possible to add pictures if you are not a paid member, I can't find any way to attach a picture.

[Zombie]

Look under "More Reply Options" bottom right and it will open up to allow you to attach a pic (Attach Files bottom left).

[jshaff]

That option does not appear. I do have one question tho,

I found that my key when turned left does not activate accessories, so I need to turn it right one click to get my stereo on, when this happens i can hear the fuel pump prime the lines. My question is, is there any reason why I should not be doing this with a boat that is currently winterized?

[TNWILSON]

That option does not appear. I do have one question tho,

I found that my key when turned left does not activate accessories, so I need to turn it right one click to get my stereo on, when this happens i can hear the fuel pump prime the lines. My question is, is there any reason why I should not be doing this with a boat that is currently winterized?

I REALLY hope not! I've turned my key one click over tons of times while messing with the stereo this winter. I don't see how it would hurt since your not turning the engine...just the EFI. As long as no water/antifreeze is being spit out you should be fine.

I'm actually doing the same to mine. (Trying...not the best when it comes to this stuff) As in setting the system up on a ACC switch so it has nothing to do with the key.

Edited January 4, 2014 by TNWILSON

[jshaff]

I REALLY hope not! I've turned my key one click over tons of times while messing with the stereo this winter. I don't see how it would hurt since your not turning the engine...just the EFI. As long as no water/antifreeze is being spit out you should be fine.

I'm actually doing the same to mine. (Trying...not the best when it comes to this stuff) As in setting the system up on a ACC switch so it has nothing to do with the key.

It was not that hard to attach my Amp to the ACC switch, all my switches were wired with power and ground so all that was required was to attach the REM wire from the amp to the back of the switch.

[jshaff]

• Ultimately decided to replace the kick plate with a custom box instead of trying to get all the angles right.
• Ordered the malibu carpet from Overtons and it matches pretty well.

1. Removed the driver seat and kick plate.
2. Created a cardboard model of the box we wanted to create to make sure we could get the maximum size box into this space. The box was also angled in the front at a similar angle to the kick plate so there is still a place to rest your feet.
3. Made the box from MDF, sealed using Fiberglass resin inside and out and then carpeted once dry
4. Mounted the AMP on the forward wall of the port locker (Mine was fiberglass) This may have been the most difficult part due to my AMP having very deep screw holes and a standard bit not fitting in, as well as the tight area. Definitely easier with a helping hand.
5. Cut a hole 3/4" diameter in the Port side floor directly next to the current one (so we knew it would be in the ski locker and ran RCA, Speaker wire and REM wire through.
6. Grabbed the wires from the hole and zip tied them to current power wires that run under the floor and into the starboard side under the dash,
7. Attached REM wire to ACC switch, RCA to the Head unit.

Pictures from the project blow:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/113419233@N02/11755638446/ Port Locker hole

http://www.flickr.com/photos/113419233@N02/11754897685/in/photostream/ Wiring in ski compartment

http://www.flickr.com/photos/113419233@N02/11755637826/ Wires coming through drivers side floor

http://www.flickr.com/photos/113419233@N02/11755144013/ Amplifier on wall

http://www.flickr.com/photos/113419233@N02/11755636736/ (fiberglassed box)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/113419233@N02/11754899965/in/photostream/ (Carpeted box)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/113419233@N02/11755639826/in/photostream/ (completed Box with sub in)