Amplifier addition

[jshaff]

I have a 2006 Malibu Iride with 4 Rockford Fostgate P1S652 speakers, and I was looking to add an amplifier, but I cannot seem to figure out where to run the wiring. Is there a diagram showing where the wiring on the boat runs, since my head unit is on the drivers side and the battery is on the opposite. The only way I have seen is to run it all the way down the sides around the back over the fuel tank and then down below the stereo.

[Zombie]

I have a 2006 VRide. All my amps are located under the drivers helm. I ran 1/0 gauge amp cable from the helm to the port storage locker (where the batteries and Perko switch are located) through the bow area. I was skeptical about running power cable close to the fuel tank.

[jshaff]

When you have the amp under the helm where do you ground it. Also what's the best way to mount the amp/what material will I be drilling into behind the carpet

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[MLA]

The best location to mount the amp is going to be in the port side mid-ship locker. This puts it close the battery. In this case, you will need to run a set of RCA cables and turn-on lead from the head-unit to the amp. In a lot of boats, this can be done by routing through the bilge from the helm to the port locker. For a single amp, you might find room on the forward wall of the locker, which is the back side of the front seat back. If not, then an amp wall will need to be constructed and secured to the outer wall of the hull. This allows for further stereo upgrades to be done easily and cleanly. For the speaker wires, I would run new cables from each speaker to the amp area, as opposed to splicing new wires to the existing wires behind the head-unit and routing them over.

You may also find room under the helm to mount a single amp. This makes short runs for the RCA cable and turn-on wire, but longer power cable runs. This is not an issue, as its done all the time in boats that have the batteries in the back. You would also still need to run new speaker wires.

The amp needs to ground directly to the battery. Its B+ needs to terminate to the battery of the Common post of the switch if you have a dual battery setup. behind the carpet is just fiberglass, but you need to know whats beyond it, so you dont come through the other side. That back helm wall should be plenty thick to support an amp, just know whats on the other side first.

[jshaff]

Thanks for the response, I have since decided that I am actually going to do a sub install instead of a speaker amp, I plan on installing the sub where the kickplate is on the drivers side and installing the amp in the port side ski locker so that I do not have to run long power wires. I plan on mounting the Amp on the inside wall on the Ski locker, when drilling to mount this into fiberglass are there any precautions I need to take other then making sure the screw is not to long? The only place I have found to run the RCA cables, speaker wire, on/off, is through the bow or all the way around the back as there does not seem to be room to fit any more wiring down through the bilge compartment.

[ADDICTED2WAKE]

Thanks for the response, I have since decided that I am actually going to do a sub install instead of a speaker amp, I plan on installing the sub where the kickplate is on the drivers side and installing the amp in the port side ski locker so that I do not have to run long power wires. I plan on mounting the Amp on the inside wall on the Ski locker, when drilling to mount this into fiberglass are there any precautions I need to take other then making sure the screw is not to long? The only place I have found to run the RCA cables, speaker wire, on/off, is through the bow or all the way around the back as there does not seem to be room to fit any more wiring down through the bilge compartment.

I also added an amp to power the cabin speakers. You can actually run them under the floor between the he and the port locker (like mentioned above). In my case (no ski locker) it was a pain getting the first wire through; had to use a snake. But then my amps were all on the port side.

Also I just posted up a custom subwoofer enclosure that I built for the exact same area (I have a vride), in the classifieds. It replaces the kick plate. Let me know if interested.

[jshaff]

I also added an amp to power the cabin speakers. You can actually run them under the floor between the he and the port locker (like mentioned above). In my case (no ski locker) it was a pain getting the first wire through; had to use a snake. But then my amps were all on the port side.

Also I just posted up a custom subwoofer enclosure that I built for the exact same area (I have a vride), in the classifieds. It replaces the kick plate. Let me know if interested.

Sorry I misspoke I meant port locker, but the issue was I cannot get any more wires through, I tried to get a snake down last night just to see if i could and I could barley get the snake to go down the hole. I actually saw your Sub Enclosure, but I am planning to build mine into my current kickplate. Just curious though how did you secure your sub enclosure?

[ADDICTED2WAKE]

Sorry I misspoke I meant port locker, but the issue was I cannot get any more wires through, I tried to get a snake down last night just to see if i could and I could barley get the snake to go down the hole. I actually saw your Sub Enclosure, but I am planning to build mine into my current kickplate. Just curious though how did you secure your sub enclosure?

Yeah it was a big pain getting it thru the first time. Probably took me more than an hour and that's using flashlights and a little mirror and 2 people. But once it was thru everything else was real easy.

I never actually secured the sub. It fits so tightly that it won't move (a lot of mass plus friction from all the carpet contact on bottom and sides). I thought about doing the same thing you are but wasn't quite sure how I was going to have the kick plate reinforced and enclosed. Also wanted to be able to put it back to stock so I didn't want to mess with the kick plate-just removed it.

[jshaff]

Which side did you run the wires from drives to the port side or from port to the drives side? because we tried to run a snake and we could not even get it to go down the port side hole.

[Zombie]

When you have the amp under the helm where do you ground it. Also what's the best way to mount the amp/what material will I be drilling into behind the carpet

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The 1/0 power and ground cables run together to the port locker. The ground is terminated at the battery itself. My amps are mounted directly to the carpeted helm wall. The front side of the wall is wide open so there's no danger of screwing into something.

[jshaff]

The 1/0 power and ground cables run together to the port locker. The ground is terminated at the battery itself. My amps are mounted directly to the carpeted helm wall. The front side of the wall is wide open so there's no danger of screwing into something.

I think I am going to go with putting the Amp in the port locker due to the difficulty of me getting a 1/0 power line across the boat. Now I need to figure out the best place to mount it.. Worse case scenario I can run speaker wire and RCA cables all the way around the back over the fuel tank.

[ADDICTED2WAKE]

Yeah I ran power for both amps, sub +/-, and component +/- under the floor.

I also mounted the amp rack to the forward wall. Cutout small portion of carpet, glued in some would blocks with studs. Now the amp rack mounts with wing nuts-quick removal for the winter or whatever.

I'll seek if I can find a photo

Edited November 30, 2013 by ADDICTED2WAKE

[jshaff]

Two Questions:

1. Can you safely drill into the front wall of the port side locker (back of the bow seat) this is where im thinking of mounting the amp

2. Would it be possible/what would I need to connect the on/off wire for the amp to an empty accessory switch so I could easily shut the sub off when at a sand bar etc... since I have only one battery it would quickly drain with the boat off.

[ADDICTED2WAKE]

Photo before wiring...

[MLA]

Two Questions:

1. Can you safely drill into the front wall of the port side locker (back of the bow seat) this is where im thinking of mounting the amp

2. Would it be possible/what would I need to connect the on/off wire for the amp to an empty accessory switch so I could easily shut the sub off when at a sand bar etc... since I have only one battery it would quickly drain with the boat off.

1) Yes you can. Just dont use a screw thats too long that is penetrates the seatback into the foam.

2) Yes. Or if your head-unit has a sub output you can run it to zero and the amp just sits idle. To switch it, you just need a simple on/off rocker or toggle to interrupt the amp turn-on circuit.

[jshaff]

1) Yes you can. Just dont use a screw thats too long that is penetrates the seatback into the foam.

2) Yes. Or if your head-unit has a sub output you can run it to zero and the amp just sits idle. To switch it, you just need a simple on/off rocker or toggle to interrupt the amp turn-on circuit.

1). Does anyone know the approximate depth of that back panel to avoid going to long?

[Zombie]

1). Does anyone know the approximate depth of that back panel to avoid going to long?

I used 1" wood screws. They were deep enough to get through the amp holes and carpet with enough bite into the wood without penetrating the back of the vinyl. Also, I used a small buss bar for my amp(s) turn-on. That way I would have an easy way to add additional stuff in the future. I've got three amps, a Memphis Bass Enhancer and a Wetsounds 420SQ so I also added a relay. You won't need the relay if your just powering a couple of things. Running one wire from your deck to a buss bar inside the storage locker would be very easy.

Edited November 30, 2013 by Zombie

[jshaff]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1385833156.958052.jpg

Photo before wiring...

The amp on the right looks like a Mairine one, has any one had any issues using non-marine amps when mounting them in this location? As this is a pretty dry spot.

[ADDICTED2WAKE]

Actually neither of mine are marine. No need IMO. It dies stay dry for me in there.

Zombie does anyone sit in your bow? I'd be a little nervous with 1" screws if a larger person (read great ballast) is leaning up against that cushion especially when bouncing around in big chop.

[Zombie]

Actually neither of mine are marine. No need IMO. It dies stay dry for me in there.

Zombie does anyone sit in your bow? I'd be a little nervous with 1" screws if a larger person (read great ballast) is leaning up against that cushion especially when bouncing around in big chop.

Yeah, not a problem. The screws don't come anywhere close to coming through the vinyl. I can't even feel them. 1" isn't that long when you have to go through the amp mount holes, carpeting and into wood that's probably 1/2-3/4" thick.

[jshaff]

What size Subs did you guys go with, I was looking at this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UFHXOM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER But i'm afraid that I wont be able to build a box big enough back there to fit the size.

[MLA]

You should no issue building an enclosure for a 10 or even a 12" sub, but the sub model dictate the enclosure's gross dimensions. Its best to know what size enclosure is going to fit and then choose the woofer, rather then buy the woofer and then compromise on the enclosure in order to it fit.

[jshaff]

So i have decided to go with this amp http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-Kac-9105D-1800-Watt-Class-Amplifier/dp/B0037ZRP7G/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t

It can put out 500 RMS at 4 ohm or 900 RMS at 2 ohm.

I will be getting this 10" sub http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UFHXOC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

My problem is that I do not know whether to get the 4 ohm sub and the 2 ohm sub. The Dual voice coils make the wiring confusing to me because as I understand it is you wire a 4 Ohm dual voice coil you end up with 2 ohm load on the amp, where if you wire a 2 Ohm DVC you end up with a 4 ohm load on the amp. And there is also another way to wire a 2 Ohm DVC where you end up with 1 Ohm on the amp.

Please someone help me determine which of these two subs pairs best with the amp.

[MLA]

A 4 ohm dvc wire in parallel = 2 ohm, that amp will deliver 900W rms. Too much IMO for the chosen woofer

A 2 ohm dvc wired in series = 4 ohm, that amp in the link will deliver 500w rms. Spot on

A 2 ohm dvc wired in parallel = 1 ohm, dont think that amp will run 1 ohm stable.

[jshaff]

The amp will run 900watts stable at 1ohm.

But thank you for the clarification I will go with the 2 ohm sub wired in series

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