Why Can't I Winterize By Just Doing This?

[zone 5]

This is not true. Water does bypass the t-stat. And there are dealers that winterize like this also. One in particular that I know does use the purple -100 antifreeze though with this process.

depends on the engine and how its set up. They all do not bypass. The dealer that does it this way is tempting fate. Even with -100000 if it doesn't replace the water it does no good.

[exlonghorn]

Well, don't feel too bad OP...I had the same question. My imagined approach was slightly different, but requires that you trailer your boat.

1. Fill the gas tank with Sta-Bil included.
2. Run at the boat ramp for 15 minutes to get the Sta-Bil through the fuel system per the engine manual (also warms the engine to operating temp)
3. Pull the boat out, affix the antifreeze source to the raw water intake, and then run the engine until you're seeing a good amount of AF leaving the exhaust (using 5 gallons or so)

But to several people's points, you just can't be 100% sure all the water is out without draining first. And yep, that little work is well worth the protection for this kind of investment. It's just annoying because I live in Central Texas and we might get just a couple freeze days each year.

For those who take it to a dealer to get the 300 hour maintenance done in accordance with the Indmar manual, what does that typically cost? I'm looking at around $750.

Engine Oil and Filter Change ZF Transmission Fluid Change Walters V-Drive Oil Change Raw Water Pump Impeller X Replace Flame Arrestor Clean Spark Plugs* Replace Engine Timing* Check Starter Bendix* Grease Spark Plug Wires* Inspect Breather Hose* Clean PCV Valve* Replace

[Big Jay D]

Think about this. Those with a FAE could use a can, 39g trash can, of sorts. Put can under exhaust. Fill with 5 gallons of RVAF. Use a big feed pump (most expensive part) and run a fake a lake hose. Run the engine until you see the temp gauge on the engine go up to temp. Spent RVAF goes out exhaust into can and back though engine. Bonus, the warmer the RVAF gets the faster the engine heats up.

It's late. I'm bored. Seems like a way to winterize with ease. At least for those that ride year round but need to drain after every trip. Just thinking out loud.

[shawndoggy]

Think about this. Those with a FAE could use a can, 39g trash can, of sorts. Put can under exhaust. Fill with 5 gallons of RVAF. Use a big feed pump (most expensive part) and run a fake a lake hose. Run the engine until you see the temp gauge on the engine go up to temp. Spent RVAF goes out exhaust into can and back though engine. Bonus, the warmer the RVAF gets the faster the engine heats up.

It's late. I'm bored. Seems like a way to winterize with ease. At least for those that ride year round but need to drain after every trip. Just thinking out loud.

The antifreeze would be "cut" with whatever water is in your block tho, which is probably 3-4 gallons? I think I'd want a lot more than a 50:50 dilution ratio.

[Levi900RR]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reinventing_the_wheel

[zone 5]

The antifreeze would be "cut" with whatever water is in your block tho, which is probably 3-4 gallons? I think I'd want a lot more than a 50:50 dilution ratio.

it will be, and if you dilute -50 antifreeze even a small amount its useless. It can ONLY be used full strength.

[Nitrousbird]

I have winterized the 'Bu with a bucket of antifreeze before. The joys of having one with partial closed cooling.

[Soon2BV]

just because i had some in the bottle, i poured some -50 into the top of the block through the connector for the heater hose.

I assume that will just sit on the top of the block since i had put the drain plugs back in.