What engine would you put in your boat?

[ahopkins22LSV]

Very happy for you MB!! I can't wait to see the video and see the girl in the water!

[ndahlberg12]

Congrats!!!! We don't need light to hear the engine roar!

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[ahopkins22LSV]

Oh and I have a beer with me to enjoy with you

[Michigan boarder]

Tomorrow I'll set the timing, got a buddy's light in the garage.

My wife was concerned because the prop was rotating very slowly at idle. Told her no problem, that's just a spot-on engine alignment right there - no resistance.

[Bozboat]

Tomorrow I'll set the timing, got a buddy's light in the garage.

My wife was concerned because the prop was rotating very slowly at idle. Told her no problem, that's just a spot-on engine alignment right there - no resistance.

And the garage was shaking, and neighbors peeking. All is well tonight at MB's house tonight

Awesome

[jbower]

Great news. It's always something simple. Well usually anyways

[Michigan boarder]

My temporary set up off of the thermostat housing is kinda sloppy, since there are no "Y" fittings locally to branch the outlets together. Instead I ran "T" fittings, but had to loop some extra hose around in order to make the bends without kinking the hose. I'll get some pics later.

In the meantime, which ones would you order if it were your boat?

This would be the Cadillac. Ridiculously expensive.

http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-12828-1-stainless-y-style-fitting.aspx

This would be something simple. I could put 1" PVC inside of it and put it together kinda like I did with my exhaust.

http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?p=PVC-Fittings-Wyes-45degree&p_id=475-010&xm=on&ppinc=detail

This is the one I am leaning towards. It is my understanding that nylon is good, tough stuff. But the Y shape is really wide on this, not sure how that would line up.

http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Barbed_Y_Connectors_Nylon_1_Pack_Of_5/EW-30726-30#reltech

I don't know if those sites have a minimum order quantity. What do you guys think? I'm leaning towards the middle one, the PVC. I wish that was made of nylon though.

[oldjeep]

If it were my boat, the stainless ones. Not a huge fan of plastic fittings in critical spots.

[Michigan boarder]

If it were my boat, the stainless ones. Not a huge fan of plastic fittings in critical spots.

Aww, man! That's like 145 bucks! For 2 fittings! Pretty sure that would put her over the edge.

[jbower]

You could also go to Napa and browse they're heater hoses hanging some of y's that are molded or / crimped into the line itself

[oldjeep]

Alternately, is it possible to switch to a tstat housing that doesn't dump 4 outputs? Or cap 2 of them if they are common source?

Edited May 21, 2015 by oldjeep

[jbower]

I have the merc tournment ski in mine and the t stat housing only has 2 exhaust outlets the intake from impeller and the big hose from circulating pump

[Woodski]

@M-B: I found some nylon Y fittings at a local auto parts store that were designed for automotive cooling system so they would handle the environment. Worked great and would be the same material used in many current exhaust manifolds by PCM, Indmar, etc. A second choice would be to get some brass fittings and go that way. If you do a T fitting, make sure the straight through path is for the main tstat outlet to the exhaust manifold and the tstat bypass path gets to make the turns since it is only a bypass. I used that logic for the nylon fitting also when I had mine plumbed that way and when using a Y make sure you follow the water flow path similar to the heater Y from heater craft.

Note: several of the marinizers don't follow the same setup as Mercruiser, they only have a 2 hose system. IMO, for John, finding a couple of nylon T's will be the quickest and easiest way to do it.

Edited May 21, 2015 by Woodski

[Michigan boarder]

@M-B: I found some nylon Y fittings at a local auto parts store that were designed for automotive cooling system so they would handle the environment. Worked great and would be the same material used in many current exhaust manifolds by PCM, Indmar, etc. A second choice would be to get some brass fittings and go that way. If you do a T fitting, make sure the straight through path is for the main tstat outlet to the exhaust manifold and the tstat bypass path gets to make the turns since it is only a bypass. I used that logic for the nylon fitting also when I had mine plumbed that way and when using a Y make sure you follow the water flow path similar to the heater Y from heater craft.

Note: several of the marinizers don't follow the same setup as Mercruiser, they only have a 2 hose system. IMO, for John, finding a couple of nylon T's will be the quickest and easiest way to do it.

OK (sigh)....back to my roundup of auto parts stores. At least I know where they are. You don't happen to know what store that was do you?

Yes, for now my T fittings are as you described.

I agree, I did a quick online search and there is no point in buying a whole thermostat housing.

[martinarcher]

I went with nylon on my Stainless Marine manifolds. I can snap a pic for ya. I push the boating season pretty late so I even put a nylon "T" and a valve below each manifold that lets me drain each manifold in about 2 seconds when the night time temps are getting low.

[Michigan boarder]

Alternately, is it possible to switch to a tstat housing that doesn't dump 4 outputs? Or cap 2 of them if they are common source?

I don't think so. Two outlets in the back of the housing run cooling water to the exhaust all of the time. The two outlets in the front stay closed while the engine is warming up, and then open up when operating temperature is reached. I would hate to starve any water from either end. Easier to just get the right fittings. Good line of thought though.

[Woodski]

@M-B: I went out and looked, what I did was use a nylon T and then an elbow so the lines would run parallel and look better. The elbow and T were joined by a short piece of hose. The T basically was inserted about the midpoint of the path going past the cylinder head. The parts were either from the local regional only store (but similar to AutoZone/Advanced Auto/O'Reilly's) or a good hardware store would also probably carry similar stuff.

[MalibuNation]

MB,
Getting down to the wire ... does it look like you'll get to test out your boat this holiday? A lot of us are waiting for the video to come out. Best of luck - MN!!

[Michigan boarder]

Added a little badging. Not sure if I like it or not, might be a little too much.

[Michigan boarder]

Here is the current cooling hose set up. Woodski - you can see where a Y would be perfect on mine, I looked at the pics you sent me a while ago and you have a different set up with your thermostat.

[Michigan boarder]

MB,

Getting down to the wire ... does it look like you'll get to test out your boat this holiday? A lot of us are waiting for the video to come out. Best of luck - MN!!

That is the plan man! On the water tomorrow!

[shawndoggy]

MB I know that it was discussed many many pages ago, but did you reprop?

[Michigan boarder]

MB I know that it was discussed many many pages ago, but did you reprop?

No, we are going to test it with the current prop. I think I'll need a new one, but I went to the Acme booth at a boat show, dyno sheets in hand, expecting to spend some money. The guy said that the stock 13x13 is what I need, not the 515 or 525. Which makes no sense to me, how can a boat with 120 more hp and torque use the same prop? So we'll get it on the water and see how it goes.

[Michigan boarder]

Here's a little video:

Edited May 22, 2015 by Michigan boarder

[shawndoggy]

OJ seems to be making a more concerted effort to tailor props to the user. Might be worth reaching out to them if you find that all you are doing is laying a boiling cauldron of cavitation under all that horsepower.

(<------ one more TMC member eagerly awaiting the "yee haaaaw" moment of the boat back on the water)