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What engine would you put in your boat?


Michigan boarder

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John,

I could use 3' of gently used fuel hose if you have a piece that long. Thanks!!

Done, I'll set it aside. You can have all of it actually.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Bilge is clean. Really clean. Tank is drained and set aside, hoses and valves all to be checked/replaced next. Then on to widening the holes in the transom for the exhaust.

To clean it all, I sprayed and scrubbed the bottom, sides, underdeck, and transom with that Clorox three times. I dumped that bottle of Resolve in the bucket with 5 gallons of hot water, and scrubbed the carpet from front to rear and up the sides. Before I did that I sprayed the areas where the gas tank was with Resolve and let it soak, then started at the bow with the scrubbing. I did not have a shop vac around, so I used a dust pan to squeegee as much water as I could out of the carpet and into the bilge, to drain it out. I also had the boat at a pretty good incline jacked way up, so it drained all to the back pretty quickly. I actually used the exhaust holes to empty most of the water cuz the transom drain could not keep up. Finished up with the windex on the windows and sides that got dirty.

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A few more. That rear carpet really came clean, glad I didn't cut it out. Good enough for a spot that will be covered with a gas tank for sure.

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@MB: there is also a check ball in the fuel fitting on top of the tank, they sometimes corrode and can stick. Worth checking now.

Thanks, I'll check that out too. It looks like the fuel fitting was leaking at some point, so I'm going to pull that off and make sure the seal is good, replace the lines, and I'll check that while I'm at it.

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@MB: I notice your steering cable attachment is below the tiller arm. Mine is above and since the tiller arm is slightly above the centerline of the exhaust you might want to swap it when you go to your larger exhaust pipes. That will provide some more clearance or less of a change for rubbing contact between the arm and the exhaust pipe.

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@MB: I notice your steering cable attachment is below the tiller arm. Mine is above and since the tiller arm is slightly above the centerline of the exhaust you might want to swap it when you go to your larger exhaust pipes. That will provide some more clearance or less of a change for rubbing contact between the arm and the exhaust pipe.

Thanks, I'll take a look at that. But I don't think it will matter. When I was lining up the STE's, the flange on them will hit the wedge plate on the outside of the transom if I simply enlarge the hole by 1/4" all around. So instead I'm going to have to enlarge the hole kind of oblong, going up and down 1/4" but out towards the stern eyes by 1/2" for the flange to clear the wedge plate. So there should be no increase in proximity of the 3.5" hose to the tiller arm than there was with the 3". At least in theory, thanks again for the tip, I'll check it out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tips are done. I really, really hate drilling holes in the boat. Turned out really nice. On to the fuel lines and tank next.

Edit: and I'm away from that tiller arm too!

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Edited by Michigan boarder
  • Like 3
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Looks great, MB!! I love those tips.

They do look nice....besides Bling Factor, remind me what they do...Not that they need to do anything more than look as good as they do...LOL

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They do look nice....besides Bling Factor, remind me what they do...Not that they need to do anything more than look as good as they do...LOL

Noise reduction and CO2 reduction, especially when surfing (based on lots of comments on other threads). And, if after the engine install I decide that I want more horses, I can remove the insides and they will provide a ton of extra air flow. But for now with the hp increases that Sgt is putting together I figured I would leave them as-is and try to damper the noise since I'll already be wayyyyy over the hp that I was used to.

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Noise reduction and CO2 reduction, especially when surfing (based on lots of comments on other threads). And, if after the engine install I decide that I want more horses, I can remove the insides and they will provide a ton of extra air flow. But for now with the hp increases that Sgt is putting together I figured I would leave them as-is and try to damper the noise since I'll already be wayyyyy over the hp that I was used to.

Gotcha, thanks....but still LOVE the Bling!

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Noise reduction and CO2 reduction, especially when surfing (based on lots of comments on other threads). And, if after the engine install I decide that I want more horses, I can remove the insides and they will provide a ton of extra air flow. But for now with the hp increases that Sgt is putting together I figured I would leave them as-is and try to damper the noise since I'll already be wayyyyy over the hp that I was used to.

I'm super excited for you, MB! Getting the special sgt treatment is pretty sweet and even better than you've had the chance to totally clean your girl up before install!

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Awesome Thread!!! I just made a major boo-boo last season and I had to buy a long block which I'm taking delivery of Friday. Anyone have a good reccomendation for a check list of all the things I'll need or want to do when I pull the old motor? I've made a bunch of notes reading through this entire thread, but I was thinking there had to be a comprehensive list somewhere.

If anyone has one or can direct me to a link, that would be great.

I'm swapping the motor out of a 2001 Sunsetter. Picked up a long block at Michigan Motorz. Will be here Friday and hoping to complete the swap over the weekend. Water is warming up and kids are complaining!

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So far I have:

Gasket Kit

Fuel Lines (Rubber)

Cleaning stuff - Boarder, amazing cleaning job. I'm showing pictures to my kids to help them understand what "Clean" looks like!

Hose Clamps

Misc. Fasteners....

Anything else that anyone can think of would be helpful!

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@MIRuss: An assumption could be made since you are getting the long block from Mi Motorz that it will be a direct replacement marine long block. Even with that in mind, I would make sure that the content of the long block is what you want or expect - pistons / camshaft / oil pan with drain hose and windage tray / 4 bolt main caps / brass freeze plugs / intake manifold fuel supply unit bolt pattern (carb or FI unit) attachment points, etc. You also might want some paint to make sure all bare surfaces are protected from the damp environment. Another assumption, you are swapping over all the ancillaries to the new long block from the original long block. Same balancing method for both, ie: crank damper?

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Woodski - I am assuming everything is the same and interchangeable. Which, I know, when you assume....

So, I plan on leaving the long block as is and just swapping components - Intake, Exhaust manifold, starter, alternator, trans, water pump....

When you reference the crank damper: I'm not entirely sure what would change? Can you elaborate?

Thanks!!

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I went with the 5.7L Vortec that they had in stock....I was told everything would matchup from my existing motor to that block. Keeping my fingers crossed!

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Talked with some other Guys and have come up with a fairly comprehensive list:

Belts

Hoses (if needed)

Fuel lines (rubber only)

Plugs & Wires

Clutch!!! (this is actually a good idea - only $22 at Michigan Motorz)

Misc:

Hose Clamps

Zip Strips - Wire Ties

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