What engine would you put in your boat?

[oldjeep]

FWIW, this is a picture of the stock setup on a Mercruiser 5.0L. Looks like a standard reducer and a standard oil pressure switch. Does whatever you are hitting appear in this picture?

This should be the stock parts

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/pc/EDM496007/MERELECFP

Or maybe one of these would work - 1/4NPT with a long nose. sierra op72533

http://www.iboats.com/Sierra-Oil-Pressure-Safety-Shut-Off-Switch/dm/view_id.729813

Edited May 14, 2015 by oldjeep

[Michigan boarder]

Yep, that's the set up, but with a single wire. The hex on the reducer is hitting that part that curves out underneath where the switch should be. I'm thinking Napa will have the right one, they all seem to have that long nose, as long at it's a single prong and 6psi to ground and the threads are right I'll be in business.

[oldjeep]

Yep, that's the set up, but with a single wire. The hex on the reducer is hitting that part that curves out underneath where the switch should be. I'm thinking Napa will have the right one, they all seem to have that long nose, as long at it's a single prong and 6psi to ground and the threads are right I'll be in business.

single wire, 2 wires, 3 wires typically doesn't matter on an oil pressure switch just 1-n outputs. In the case of the 3 prong one I posted, all 3 send the same signal

You have a lot of confidence in Napa I find that it is usually easier to find the part number of what you need online and then provide it to the pimple monkey at the counter.

[Michigan boarder]

single wire, 2 wires, 3 wires typically doesn't matter on an oil pressure switch just 1-n outputs. In the case of the 3 prong one I posted, all 3 send the same signal

You have a lot of confidence in Napa I find that it is usually easier to find the part number of what you need online and then provide it to the pimple monkey at the counter.

Ha! Yeah, those are the guys I dealt with at the other stores. This one is a small town Napa, guy that's worked there forever, knows his stuff pretty well.

I want to stick with the single wire, cuz you never know, down the road the next guy gets the boat and is looking at the wires wondering if I hacked up the harness or something, trying to find the other 2 wires. I know I've chased stuff in cars wondering "Was this supposed to be like this??"

[Michigan boarder]

I forgot about the manifolds and the cooling hoses. I think I've covered this before, but can't recall. On the original set up there were two hoses that came from the thermostat housing and went to the exhaust manifolds. 1 went on top of each, 1 wend on the bottom. See the pic here:

With the new manifolds, there are two inputs, both along the bottom rail. I think one is for a single hose and the other (the one more downhill) is for a drain, correct? So do I create a "Y" coming from each side of the thermostat housing that goes into the one fitting? How are these manifolds connected to thermostats on the Monsoon and Hammerheads?

[ahopkins22LSV]

Does this help?

[Michigan boarder]

Nice looking engine! But no, it doesn't help much. You have different inlets to the manifolds than I do.

[Woodski]

@MB: yes to the y or a tee. I spliced the two circuits together when I went to aluminum manifolds.

[Michigan boarder]

@MB: yes to the y or a tee. I spliced the two circuits together when I went to aluminum manifolds.

Thanks Woodski, I figured that was the way to do it.

[Michigan boarder]

Update: I did a dry fit with the exhaust, it all goes together tight, I feel very solid about it. I needed some more clamps so I will be picking those up today and. I picked up pressure rated schedule 40 PVC elbows that are more stout, and put the 3" pipe inside of them so I had more surface area to clamp the 3.5" hose too. I like this set up better.

[Michigan boarder]

It was a hot weekend. That was nice for a while, but I had to deploy the garage mahal upgrade:

[Michigan boarder]

Got about a half in clearance from the tiller arm with the new 3.5" hoses:

[Michigan boarder]

Gas tank is in, the back seat is in, the long exhaust tubes are in. Starting to look like a working boat again! I'll finish up the rest of the exhaust components tonight. Then I'll fit in the cooling hoses and Y connection. Then it's time for fuel, fire it up and check the timing.

[Michigan boarder]

Oh yeah, I ground the nut down on that oil pressure switch, that went in no problem at all. I actually had to take most of it off, then bench tightened the sensor to it, then put the fitting and sensor in together using the sensor to tighten it in the rest of the way.

[Michigan boarder]

We are getting close. All that's left is the cooling hoses, will finish that up tomorrow. Then we turn the key...

[Ndawg12]

Nice little birthday present

[ahopkins22LSV]

That looks great MB!!

[Michigan boarder]

Everything is done, hooked up, ready to go. 10 gallons of fresh fuel. I tried cranking it several times, pumping the throttle, but I did not get anything, it did not fire at all. So I got some starting fluid and sprayed that at the flame arrestor as I was cranking. Cranked for 7 seconds and while doing that I sprayed 3 or 4 one second shots of fluid at it. It cranked a revolution or two differently, but never sounded like it tried to fire. Then I got a very loud backfire thru the exhaust, like gunshot loud. Am I 180 off on the timing? It seems like it should have at least tried to start with the starting fluid.

[Bozboat]

Sounds like spark plugs are wired wrong

[Michigan boarder]

Well you were partially right, I had #2 and #3 mixed up. Man, I must have looked at it a thousand times. So I hooked them up correctly. Checked the firing order 18436572, all set. The distributor has the numbers on the top of the cap, I made sure they matched the order, and traced each one back to the spark plugs, they are all correct. I turned it over again and this time after a shot of fluid it started to spin faster, like it was going to start, but then it quit doing that. I let off the starter. Waited a few seconds, started cranking it again and got another loud pop from the exhaust. I pulled a plug and it appears damp. Not soaked, but a little bit wet.

Edit: and the firing order is in a clockwise rotation.

Edited May 20, 2015 by Michigan boarder

[Michigan boarder]

Will it pop like that if it's flooded?

[jbower]

180 out for sure. Just went threw the same thing on my rebuild

[Michigan boarder]

Not sure if this matters, but it might.

The original Weber carb is on the engine. On the original engine that carb sat on top of a different manifold. That manifold had linkage running thru it that connected to the carb as the choke. When the manifold was cold, it pulled down the linkage and made the butterfly close. When the engine warmed up the linkage would allow the butterfly to open. The Performer manifold does not have that linkage. I was supposed to get a new carb with electric choke, but I'm using the old one for now. Without any linkage attached to the carb the butterfly stays wide open. To start the engine I had just wedged a rag up under that linkage so that the butterfly would stay closed for now, to at least get it started and warmed up.

Would that affect anything?

[oldjeep]

Didn't you run this motor on a dyno? Why would anything have been changed?

[Michigan boarder]

180 out for sure. Just went threw the same thing on my rebuild

That's what I'm thinking too. It's trying to ignite on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke, and raw fuel is going out, and igniting in the exhaust. Right? Wife saw black smoke come out of the back.