What engine would you put in your boat?

[Woodski]

@MB: looks awesome, keep the drool off the carpet (it freezes this time of year). I noticed the started appears unpainted, is it a marine spec unit or the old one cleaned of original paint? If new, and not, you should be able to swap the key components over from the old one if needed.

[Michigan boarder]

@MB: looks awesome, keep the drool off the carpet (it freezes this time of year). I noticed the started appears unpainted, is it a marine spec unit or the old one cleaned of original paint? If new, and not, you should be able to swap the key components over from the old one if needed.

No kidding on the drool!

That is the original starter, I had it rebuilt in the winter of 2012. Painted grey. Here's another pic from after I got it back from the electrical shop:

[Slayer]

That thing looks great, MB!! Well done to both you and SGT!.

[Bozboat]

WOW, just WOW!

[Michigan boarder]

Man, it's a good thing that I took a ton of pictures. I worked on it last night and have all of the wiring harnesses hooked up for placement, finger tight. I brought a netbook to look at the pics but left my tools at home so everything is connected and tonight I'll clean each connection and tighten it all up. The pulleys & accessories are on, the carb, and fuel lines are done.

Stuff left to do:

1. engine alignment

2. fab cooling system

3. fab exhaust system

4. finish installing gas tank

5. set timing

[ahopkins22LSV]

Really looking forward to you finishing this up, for you and your family! Won't be long now until we have open water.

[Woodski]

@MB: when you do the engine alignment, don't just let the coupling hang, support it and make sure the trans coupling is correct vertically to where the shaft has the least resistance to spin as gravity will make the coupling droop too low without any support (I hope that description makes sense). Not sure what Sgt suggested for timing, a typical SBC likes ~33-34 BTC at full advance or 4500 rpm+.

[Michigan boarder]

@MB: when you do the engine alignment, don't just let the coupling hang, support it and make sure the trans coupling is correct vertically to where the shaft has the least resistance to spin as gravity will make the coupling droop too low without any support (I hope that description makes sense). Not sure what Sgt suggested for timing, a typical SBC likes ~33-34 BTC at full advance or 4500 rpm+.

Yep, my plan was to span a board the opening of the back of the engine compartment, and tie a loop around the shaft to bring it up to a neutral position. Then do the alignment.

Timing - not sure, haven't got that far yet, that was going to be a question to Sgt. My plan is to set the static timing - find #1 TDC and keep it close to zero, close enough so it will start. I've got the cooling & exhaust components to finish, then I can do dynamic timing with a light and set it to what is recommended. Enough to do a driveway test with a hose. THEN, haul it over to Ann Arbor again and Sgt has offered to do a water test and complete tune.

[Michigan boarder]

All of the electrical stuff is done now, and I think I have the timing set statically to about 10 BTDC. It's been a while since I've put a distributor in, is there a way to tell if I am off 180 degrees?

[justgary]

Both valves should be closed on #1 with it at top dead center.

[Woodski]

@MB: You might also have to align the oil pump drive if the engine got spun after the dyno run. It is a simple slot and if not aligned the distributor may not just drop in. Only need ed if you struggle to get the distributor oriented the way you want somthe wires lay out nice and the module plug is where you want it.

[Michigan boarder]

Both valves should be closed on #1 with it at top dead center.

OK, so I just remove the valve cover and take a look at their position, right?

@MB: You might also have to align the oil pump drive if the engine got spun after the dyno run. It is a simple slot and if not aligned the distributor may not just drop in. Only need ed if you struggle to get the distributor oriented the way you want somthe wires lay out nice and the module plug is where you want it.

The engine did not get spun, so I think it should line up. The distributor cap got cracked somehow in all the shuffling around that I've done, so I have to order a new one. I'll get that in next week.

[oldjeep]

OK, so I just remove the valve cover and take a look at their position, right?

Or pull the #1 spark plug and feel for compression

[Woodski]

@MB: Correct to JustGary's comment. You can also verify correct position by checking that the valves on the opposite cylinder are open and #1 closed. Firing order should be listed on the distributor cap and is on the original intake manifold. You can also find it online.

[justgary]

If you don't want to turn the engine, remove the #1 plug and blow a little compressed air in the hole. If it fills and pops back at you, the valves are closed. If you hear the air moving in the intake or exhaust, you are on the wrong stroke.

Don't use to much air, or it will turn the engine for you.

[Michigan boarder]

Pulled the valve cover and rotated the engine. Both valves are closed. It is difficult for me to spin the engine with one hand while doing something with the other (like feeling for air), since my spinning hand on the port side of the engine is the one attached to my shoulder that is still getting rehabbed. So I simply watched the rocker arms closely, they are both definitely closed on #1.

Edit: you can see the one on #7 cylinder that is open.

Edited March 19, 2015 by Michigan boarder

[Michigan boarder]

Here is the timing mark:

[Michigan boarder]

And the distributor orientation:

[Michigan boarder]

Here's a shot of the engine, darn near ready!

[Michigan boarder]

So I am a bit stumped on the exhaust. The ETX's come out right at the engine mounts. I need to do some searching, hoping I can find a 3.5" rubber 30 degree elbow to go to the silencer. I don't want to buy mufflers if I can avoid it.

Edit: actually I think a 45 degree elbow is what I need, and looks like there are a few of them out there. Will a silicone one work or do I need to stick with rubber?

Edited March 19, 2015 by Michigan boarder

[Michigan boarder]

The starboard side is really tight. I can lift that silencer up some, but that just makes it tougher. In the picture it is sitting on the bilge floor.

[Michigan boarder]

A little lovin on the teak tonight. Going to teak guard it when it warms up a little more.

Before:

[Michigan boarder]

After:

Edit: actually I will scrub it, then teak brighten it, then teak guard it.

Edited March 19, 2015 by Michigan boarder

[justgary]

What about flex hose? The stuff with ribs should bend fairly well.

[shawndoggy]

like this stuff?

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MPI252-3000