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Extreme Trailer Actuator and Rotor Replacement Tips/Advice

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I have been having issues with my brakes locking up while driving and orginally I thought it was a bad wire connection to truck but after installing a new 7 way adapter it is still causing me grief (Trailer buddy UFP disk brakes). While driving my brakes will start to engage (I notce my truck starts working harder) I have to pull over and just put truck in reverse for a second then can go ahead and drive for a while until I hit a big bump or something, then they start to lockup again. So after talking with UFP they feel and so do I that my actuator is going (either mastercylinder or shock etc). I want to change these components out myself to both learn how to and avoid having to take it in to a dealership as I don't even have a Malibu dealer within 3 hours of me, costs at dealerships for this stuff is also through the roof. UFP said they recommend me not doing it if I never have and to take it in but I think I could take this on, any advice or tips? I have the manual printed out and it seems to have some good stuff in it.

Also in the process of the brakes locking up I have cracked 2 rotors (maybe all 4) so need to replace those as well (was driving on mountain roads so sometimes it took a while to find a good place to pull over). Any tips on changing the rotors, I know I will need to replace the seals anything else? Anyone think this is a bad idea to be trying to fix myself?

Thanks

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malibu2004

Just make sure you bleed the brakes when your done.

I would buy the whole actuator assembly, all rotors and all pads and be done with it.

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REW

Not really that hard, the worst part will be sitting inthe sun working on the trailer looking at the boat. All doable if you have average skills and take your time, read the manual inculding the notes and warnings .

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MalibuTime

Since your rotors were hot enough to crack I would also repack and check all bearings . The alternative is to go to a trailer shop. Doesn't need to be boat dealer to work on a trailer.

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Faceplant409

I have toyed with the idea of using an electric brake actuator. The root of your problem seems to be that you have heated up your trailer brakes by using a low gear to slow you on a down grade thus engaging the trailer brakes. (correct me if I'm wrong...)

Some have gone to the (very dangerous) practice of locking out the trailer brakes traveling down long grades.

An electric controler would relieve that issue almost entirely. (IMHO)

$.02

Patrick

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Zombie

I've got a 2006 Extreme trailer and last year I had a similar problem. Was intermittent and hard to diagnose. Took it to a local trailer specialty shop and a bad ground in the tongue near the surge brakes was the problem.

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REHinH20

Since your rotors were hot enough to crack I would also repack and check all bearings . The alternative is to go to a trailer shop. Doesn't need to be boat dealer to work on a trailer.

Be sure the trailer shop has access to the right seal and race, no matter how well packed the bearing is if they use the wrong of wither, you are in trouble.

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I have toyed with the idea of using an electric brake actuator. The root of your problem seems to be that you have heated up your trailer brakes by using a low gear to slow you on a down grade thus engaging the trailer brakes. (correct me if I'm wrong...)

Some have gone to the (very dangerous) practice of locking out the trailer brakes traveling down long grades.

An electric controler would relieve that issue almost entirely. (IMHO)

$.02

Patrick

I never use gear to slow down as I know not to do that with these types of breaks.

Patrick

I've got a 2006 Extreme trailer and last year I had a similar problem. Was intermittent and hard to diagnose. Took it to a local trailer specialty shop and a bad ground in the tongue near the surge brakes was the problem.

I don't think it is an electrical connection as as soon as I put it in reverse then go forward everything is all good till I hit a bump, sound right or think it still could be electrical?

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Zombie

I never use gear to slow down as I know not to do that with these types of breaks.

Patrick

I don't think it is an electrical connection as as soon as I put it in reverse then go forward everything is all good till I hit a bump, sound right or think it still could be electrical?

It probably is something else but make sure and check it while you're in there. I was just giving you something else to look at.

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Kenw

Having similar issue with my Boatmate trailer. The brakes start to drag while towing. Stopping and putting the truck in reverse disengages them. It happened my first time out this season. Then it happened again last weekend. Taking it to get looked at on Saturday.

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Having similar issue with my Boatmate trailer. The brakes start to drag while towing. Stopping and putting the truck in reverse disengages them. It happened my first time out this season. Then it happened again last weekend. Taking it to get looked at on Saturday.

Kenw, please keep me informed what you find out and I will do the same.

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