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My Boatmate Trailer....Concerns About My Bunks


Afun

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You can't just go by "back up until the tailpipe is in the water". How far you back in depends on how steep the ramp is. You back in to deep on a steep ramp you are too g to punch the roller with the bow. General rule I use is that the fenders should be just under water. I don't power load so if the trailer isn't backed in far enough just have the driver back in further. As water levels change throughout the season these techniques need to be adjusted, that's where experience plays a factor. If you launch at the same ramp all the time that makes things much simpler.

Edited by Bobby Light
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Trailers just suck in general ...

Too bad we can't use a tractor beam, and beam the boat to the lake. We need more power Scotty eye captain!!

Trailers of often treated like red headed step children....no maintenance until they break...and they always break at the wrong time. I am sure someone on this site has some kinda maint schedule and what needs to be done.....greasing, repacking, etc.

Another thing to do during the offseason, so the on season is un eventful!!

ANd lets not get into which is better. to power onto the trailer or not...that horse was beaten and bloodied a long time ago!!

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Too bad we can't use a tractor beam, and beam the boat to the lake. We need more power Scotty eye captain!!

Trailers of often treated like red headed step children....no maintenance until they break...and they always break at the wrong time. I am sure someone on this site has some kinda maint schedule and what needs to be done.....greasing, repacking, etc.

Another thing to do during the offseason, so the on season is un eventful!!

ANd lets not get into which is better. to power onto the trailer or not...that horse was beaten and bloodied a long time ago!!

I have to believe that horse sided with low to no power onto a fully submerged trailer before the shennanigans started,,,,

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Afun, I would take a look at your bunks to make sure they are also flat against the bottom of the trailer (not tilted putting more bearing on the worn edges). That seems like too much wear on the inside edges for the short time you have had the boat. Those pics are at the end of the trailer so they have to be getting soaked pretty well. As mentioned, come in slow. I approach the trailer throttling in and out of gear, just enough forward momentum to keep steerage.

Those carpets need to be replaced asap (put the new right over the top of the old), and unless the bunks are out of alignment or the carpet is defective I don't think you have a warranty claim for that.

Also when you put your new carpt on, you might want to hit just the ends, where you were getting wear with some pledge furniture polish (wax).

The flat, well that just sucks. Not much you can do there except make sure you didn't get 4 year old tires or something like that.

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General rule I use is that the fenders should be just under water. I don't power load so if the trailer isn't backed in far enough just have the driver back in further. .

Yes, this ^^, except i powerload a little, but the back of my boat is still floating. since the marring on the bunks is at the back of the trailer, it proves that the trailer is too shallow and there is too much friction at that spot. You could spray some Liquid Rollers on your bunks to help it slide, just be careful not to unhook the boat as you are launching the boat until it's in the water, or it could slide off. Sounds like you need a drop hitch too. Trailer should be level when hooked up, so there's equal weight on each axle.

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I always back my trailer in until the water is about 6 inches over the fenders. I let the boat float off for the most part. Putting the trailer on I also try to keep the trailer as deep as possible.

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Those marks on the bunks are from the strakes/chines in the hull. The boat is not getting centered. I suspect the boat was not centered a few times and was power loaded. The full weight of the boat was put on the edges of the chines and then power loaded.

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Those marks on the bunks are from the strakes/chines in the hull. The boat is not getting centered. I suspect the boat was not centered a few times and was power loaded. The full weight of the boat was put on the edges of the chines and then power loaded.

I mean cmon, who doesnt have a few marks on their bunks? Im sure everyone has at least one.

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Afun, I would take a look at your bunks to make sure they are also flat against the bottom of the trailer (not tilted putting more bearing on the worn edges). That seems like too much wear on the inside edges for the short time you have had the boat. Those pics are at the end of the trailer so they have to be getting soaked pretty well. As mentioned, come in slow. I approach the trailer throttling in and out of gear, just enough forward momentum to keep steerage.

Those carpets need to be replaced asap (put the new right over the top of the old), and unless the bunks are out of alignment or the carpet is defective I don't think you have a warranty claim for that.

Also when you put your new carpt on, you might want to hit just the ends, where you were getting wear with some pledge furniture polish (wax).

The flat, well that just sucks. Not much you can do there except make sure you didn't get 4 year old tires or something like that.

You think they need to be replaced ASAP?? Edited by Afun
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Another thing to keep in mind - your 2013 VLX is probably a deeper hulled boat than the 04 it replaced. Watching folks at the ramp with these deep boats, they can't get away with the 'leave xx feet of the bunks exposed' like I do with my much shallower RLXi. Drop that trailer deeper and see how it goes.

Jack's been covered...

I agree on the light connector. I put a new Boatmate under my boat back in 2010, the coiled connector was too small to fit well into the 7 pin connector on the back of my Tundra. I swapped it out for $15 and been perfect ever since. Makes me wonder if your backing issue was due to the backup lights never making contact, hence not powering the backup solenoid.

I'm very, very happy with my Boatmate...would buy another in an instant.

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You need to be careful with your attitude. You get more flies with honey....

I vote for taking your shirt off at Boatmate to get your way!!!!!!

Edited by Murphy8166
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You think they need to be replaced ASAP??

Well, soon for sure. It looks like the pile is gone from the carpet, so then your hull is no longer sliding on the pile which is what it is for, and is now sliding on more abrasive backing = more scratching in your gelcoat (underneath, where you can't see it but know its there :))

Edit - dipping the trailer deeper and sliding on the bunks less as suggested will buy you some time.

Edited by MalibuTime
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I have had numerous problems with my hitch Fulton is replacing my 2 wheel with a single wheel, my tires kept breaking.

My carpet on the bunkers is showing wear through, is this because of driving the boat onto the trailer for 2 seasons.

Im wondering how scratched the gel coat is under the bunkers?

How do you replace carpet?

Im going to float the boat on the trailer from now on....will this help

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^^^ yes. A+ is when your ease onto the trailer.... And you have the trailer backed in sufficiently so that as you ease the boat onto the trailer at .5 mph.... your bow comes to a rest about 1ft from the bow stop. Winch the rest.

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I have always power loaded in my old boats and my friends boats. One of the first times out with my new boat, I got caught in some wind and waves and got to much angle and one of my tracking fins hit the bunk and sliced the carpet and the wood. I now walk the trailer in by hand and winch it tight. Much less wear and tear and not really any more time to load. Just as easy.

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Yes, this ^^, except i powerload a little, but the back of my boat is still floating. since the marring on the bunks is at the back of the trailer, it proves that the trailer is too shallow and there is too much friction at that spot. You could spray some Liquid Rollers on your bunks to help it slide, just be careful not to unhook the boat as you are launching the boat until it's in the water, or it could slide off. Sounds like you need a drop hitch too. Trailer should be level when hooked up, so there's equal weight on each axle.

Either that, or the bow is hitting/sliding onto the bunks as he loads the boat. I always drop the trailer in too far into the water, so that the bunks (carpeting is wet) which allows the boat to slide on easier /less friction and does not seem to scratch the gel coat as bad. then a little giddee up at the final 2-4 feet to get the boat completely on to the trailer.

The carpet meltling like that is not good as there is too much friction.

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What are peoples thoughts on winches with a 2:1 drive? My buddy has one and it seems like it works sweet but everyone else seems to think they are uncool or something.

Its my wife doing the winch so I'd know she'd prefer 2:1 vs. me powering up the boat to help her out.

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I wish I could float onto my trailer (SMP). Float off, yes. On, these trailers are notorious for not centering unless you power/winch load them. Luckily the hull isn't showing any abuse from it.

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I wish I could float onto my trailer (SMP). Float off, yes. On, these trailers are notorious for not centering unless you power/winch load them. Luckily the hull isn't showing any abuse from it.

I power load on to my SMP every week. Just check the clearance to Starboard guide post before pulling out. If mine is not 3 to4 fingers wide, I back in a bit and let the boat driver line it up ( push or pull on Guide post as needed ) as I pull out. Seldom need to make adjustment though.

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