Perko FlushPro Installation – Pictures & Experiences

[dfarhood]

Honestly I was basing the 1-1/4" off the flush kit you posted being that. And the Apollo valve on amazon looks like it is the same one used in the mastercraft post I linked earlier. Either way I'd rather have an oversize valve and fittings to step the size down, than bottleneck the flow with it.

Also it's good to hear Perko is finally stepping up for you.

[smithouse5]

Honestly I was basing the 1-1/4" off the flush kit you posted being that. And the Apollo valve on amazon looks like it is the same one used in the mastercraft post I linked earlier. Either way I'd rather have an oversize valve and fittings to step the size down, than bottleneck the flow with it.

Also it's good to hear Perko is finally stepping up for you.

Just got out of the boat. The brass fittings are 1" I.D, 1-1/4" O.D., threads are 1" NPT, and the hoses are 1-1/4" I.D. The wall thickness of the brass fittings accounts for the added 1/4" to the hose I.D. I'll be hitting the hardware store tomorrow (Royal Brass) and will let you all know what I come up with.

[smithouse5]

Okay here is the finished product. The only difference from my diagram is that i was able to combine two pieces by finding a garden hose to 3/4" MNPT swivel as one piece. Good thing as I have less than a half inch vertical clearance from the bottom of the tool tray! I'm also able to switch back to the stock kinked/bent hose setup if necessary. I purchased all parts at Royal Brass in Santa Clara, CA, ran me about $130.

Edited April 2, 2014 by smithouse5

[jonredcorn]

I noticed this thread kind of died off... How did this flush kit end up working for you? I plan on doing this same mod in the near future

[Bozboat]

I bought the valve described above by SD, but could not make it work in my DD. The valve I got is designed so that the side is always open, in the set up above the horizontal is always live. So I went back with the perko.

So I offer my valve free to any crew member that will pay for shipping (cheap)

[WoodyBC]

Last night my bilge pump kicked on and continued to run which never happens. Perko came apart. Mine only has two screws holding the two halves together. I see now the new design has four, and a band clamp.

Headed to the hardware store to get a valve to shut off the raw water intake in case this ever happens again. I certainly dont want to sink my boat over this faulty valve. Monday morning phone call is in order.

[cyclone18]

I am on my third flush pro now.the first two split apart when running on the trailer.. I was lucky it never happened on the water! Karen from discount inboard marine was great to deal with and she made sure everything was taken care of for me. The third one now looks to be much better and has a metal band around it and it beefed up somewhat in the joins. Time will tell how this one goes. Here's my install on my Vlx.

When I first got the boat it had plastic PVC fittings on it and was on the impeller side of the v-drive so the v drive would not get flushed. I have since changed it to come in through the thru hull fitting with the shut off valve and then through the v drive then back to the impeller. I used two mandrel bent stainless tubes to get me the bend I wanted without having any sharp elbows.

[cyclone18]

This was the setup the p.o had.

[maroon88iroc]

What is the benifit of this besides flushing engine after saltwater use? I use a fake a lake which would basically do the same thing. seems a bunch of people are doing it I just dont see the benefit. Enlighten me?

[cyclone18]

maroon88iroc, for me its simply an ease of use thing. I just hook the hose up to the transom, start the engine and that's it, the engine is being flushed. I looked at just buying a fake a lake and things like that but didn't like the idea of trying to crawl under the boat in the mud after you'd finished flushing etc. for the money though you cant really go wrong, it still achieves the same result at the end of the day.

[WoodyBC]

Update: great customer service from Perko. They warrantied my defective valve and replaced it with their newly designed one. Looks like a more sturdy design.

As far as what is for, the advantage is for me to circulate antifreeze through the engine for winterization. This valve makes it quite simple.

[formulaben]

maroon88iroc, for me its simply an ease of use thing. I just hook the hose up to the transom, start the engine and that's it, the engine is being flushed. I looked at just buying a fake a lake and things like that but didn't like the idea of trying to crawl under the boat in the mud after you'd finished flushing etc. for the money though you cant really go wrong, it still achieves the same result at the end of the day.

I would add that if you're winterizing/de-winterizing by yourself, the added security of not having the fake-a-lake come off while you're running the boat is worth something. An overheat could be costly.

[shawndoggy]

I would add that if you're winterizing/de-winterizing by yourself, the added security of not having the fake-a-lake come off while you're running the boat is worth something. An overheat could be costly.

We must flush after using at our local lake, so my boat is on the hose every time. flushpro with transom hose connector is money!

[Setter02]

Do you use a pump in a bucket of RV antifreeze when you winterize? or does the boat "pull" the antifreeze on its own? (sorry for getting off topic)

[WoodyBC]

I use a pump. I place it in a bucket that i catch the fluid in that comes out the exhaust. Circulates up to temperature, opens the thermostat, and then i drain. I know, "belt AND suspenders".

[dalt1]

About $20 in parts from Ace Hardware.Works great, just have to remember to open and close through hull intake.