Saving an Square Windshield 'BU

[2014Skier]

It's coming along, I've got a bunch of small stuff done and lots more stuff ready to bolt on. The boat is outside and the weather has been cappy so my opportunities on the actual boat have been limited. My wife is pregnant again, due in early May so if I don't get her done by then then I think I'm screwed. The biggest thing I've almost got sorted is the windshield. It's been painstaking but I've got all the bent pieces straightened and will be getting glass cut soon as I get back to town.

[tvano]

It's coming along, I've got a bunch of small stuff done and lots more stuff ready to bolt on. The boat is outside and the weather has been cappy so my opportunities on the actual boat have been limited. My wife is pregnant again, due in early May so if I don't get her done by then then I think I'm screwed. The biggest thing I've almost got sorted is the windshield. It's been painstaking but I've got all the bent pieces straightened and will be getting glass cut soon as I get back to town.

grab your hat. i'm betting the crew will tee off in this statement, big time.

[martinarcher]

Congrats man! That's awesome!

The timer has been set for the project!

[2014Skier]

Had a sunny day the other day so managed to get outside and get some stuff done and some pics snapped of some of the work I had already done.

The exhaust tips are on, no real issues other then the recesses in the transom were too small for the entire mounting flange so I had to trim a strip off of each side. After that they fit fine, only small issue is i forgot to get the short screws to hold them in, but I'll swap those in later. The transom has only been polished with rubbing compound so it should look better after a few more steps, I'm just waiting to do the whole top till the weather gets better.

The other thing that is taken care of is the rudder. My rudder was broken in half prior to me getting my hands on in, I got a used rudder and tiller on Ebay, only small issue is that it is from a Mastercraft and has the logo cast into the blade...oh well. The tiller goes to the right side as opposed to the left like on a Malibu, shouldn't be a bit deal. The other thing I've got to modify is the length, with the 4" exhaust in there space is tight and it looks like I will have to cut about 1.5" off the end to clear. I was thinking of heating and bending the till arm up, but then it starts getting close to the gas tank, and that would also introduce some more torque to the stuffing block.

One thing I'm curious about it how much angle do these rudders typically sweep??

I've also got some 4" stainless tubing to make the pieces that run from the tips to the engine compartment, once I get the engine somewhat aligned I'll cut the tubing and weld it up on an angle towards the risers.

I've got some Vesconite strut bushings installed in the prop strut and I'm hoping to be able to start mocking that up soon.

I've got the glass for the windshield too, I tinted it last night and will be installing it into the frames over the next few days.

More pics soon.

[rugger]

Looks awesome. That thing is gonna be sweet

[martinarcher]

My solution to that problem is on page #2 of this thread....

http://www.themalibucrew.com/index.php?/topic/31373-exhaust-project-with-flyby-vids/

Quick trim of the tiller arm. We have never noticed the difference from the standard length arm.

[2014Skier]

Thanks guys, I had read your thread earlier Matt, but had forgotten that you had to do that too, nice to know that it is not really noticeable after the trim job. There steering is gonna be quicker then stock, but only be a bit.

I'm still looking for the steering angle if anybody has that or could approximate how much of an angle the rudder turns to at full lock. Other then the rudder getting sucked into the prop in reverse at high angle and throttle input, I can't imagine anything negative with having more steering lock. I was thinking I would add stops while I'm in there so that the rudder can't over rotate.

I finally pulled the trigger on a prop, its and Acme 431, so 13x13 with 0.80 cup, based on what I'm working with I think its a good base line. Should still give me a good hole shot, and if I can spin her up to 6K, I'm hoping 60mph. What a difference from the old prop that came on the boat, I drank half a beer just starring at all the machining, its a work of art.

I got the windshield tinted, I only went with 35% cause I didn't want to mess with my visibility on early morning and evening runs. I gotta sand down and paint the frames over the next few days and then get the glass mounted.

Lastly I got the switches for the dash and ballast. The ballast is the last of my concerns right now, but I do want to consider it in the lay-out of the boat early on. There will be no key, on the dash at least, just kinda a race car style set-up with ignition (Holley HP-EFI), fuel, and then a momentary on for the starter. I like the look of the banks of switches which will go along the bottom of the dash where the original ones went except for on both sides and the stereo controls RFX5000 will be relocated.

[Levi900RR]

Looking good man, I forgot... Are you going to try and install under floor ballast? Whats your goal with this thing watersport wise?

[2014Skier]

Thanks Levi,

I originally was going to but after calculating how much, or little, ballast would actually fit under the floor, plus the loss of floatation foam, the under floor ballast turned into a no go. As far as water sports, what I want to get into is really a bit of everything, with an emphasis on skiing and barefooting. I've never skied before, only wakeboarded, so this will all kinda new to me. I know I'll have a great time on the water regardless.

[Michigan boarder]

I finally pulled the trigger on a prop, its and Acme 431, so 13x13 with 0.80 cup, based on what I'm working with I think its a good base line. Should still give me a good hole shot, and if I can spin her up to 6K, I'm hoping 60mph. What a difference from the old prop that came on the boat, I drank half a beer just starring at all the machining, its a work of art.

Lastly I got the switches for the dash and ballast. The ballast is the last of my concerns right now, but I do want to consider it in the lay-out of the boat early on. There will be no key, on the dash at least, just kinda a race car style set-up with ignition (Holley HP-EFI), fuel, and then a momentary on for the starter. I like the look of the banks of switches which will go along the bottom of the dash where the original ones went except for on both sides and the stereo controls RFX5000 will be relocated.

Will the "hatch" switch lift up the engine cover?

Was your original prop a 13x13? I need to sort out my prop situation, running 385hp now instead of 265. I over spin my stock prop (as expected). How did you arrive at that decision?

Looking really good!

[2014Skier]

@MB I, kinda like you have little frame of reference. I followed your build, it's the extra torque that allows the higher pitch prop to be spun. I called Acme, and the guy I spoke to was of little help, saying that they needed a base line in order to help me, but I have no base line. I came up with the 13x13 based on the light weight boat, high torque, and not wanting to kill my hole shot. TRBENJ on here has some expierence with stoker motors in these boats, and suggested that would be a good starting point. I almost went with a 13x14, but figured this would be a good starting point. I plan on getting my top end by spinning up to a bit over 6K. The blade surface area etc make the new cnc props night and day difference to the old cast ones.

Yes the hatch switch will be for the motor box, 12VDC linear actuator.

Edited January 13, 2016 by 2014Skier

[Dare2goBare]

I'm realy intrested in seeing the hatch " Dog House " powered, and exactly what one needs.

Think this would be a neet feature.

By the way, should you find youself up at Kalamalka Lake, look me up

I'd be glad to take you footing! You know the Crew is always looking for great entertainment,

and as JB-FOOT puts it....we can then Welcome you to the Dark Side. ..lol...

[Michigan boarder]

@MB I, kinda like you have little frame of reference. I followed your build, it's the extra torque that allows the higher pitch prop to be spun. I called Acme, and the guy I spoke to was of little help, saying that they needed a base line in order to help me, but I have no base line. I came up with the 13x13 based on the light weight boat, high torque, and not wanting to kill my hole shot. TRBENJ on here has some expierence with stoker motors in these boats, and suggested that would be a good starting point. I almost went with a 13x14, but figured this would be a good starting point. I plan on getting my top end by spinning up to a bit over 6K. The blade surface area etc make the new cnc props night and day difference to the old cast ones.

Yes the hatch switch will be for the motor box, 12VDC linear actuator.

Nice on the hatch!

JBFoot and I will be messing around with some props this spring, I'll document that as I go along. I still plan on talking to the guys at OJ or Acme too, showing them my hp&tq, then rpm&speed with what's on it now.

[Levi900RR]

Thanks Levi,

I originally was going to but after calculating how much, or little, ballast would actually fit under the floor, plus the loss of floatation foam, the under floor ballast turned into a no go. As far as water sports, what I want to get into is really a bit of everything, with an emphasis on skiing and barefooting. I've never skied before, only wakeboarded, so this will all kinda new to me. I know I'll have a great time on the water regardless.

Cool, I would focus on getting a wedge set up and some bow ballast

[dmc]

skier,

I am looking forward to seeing this come together. As a LS freak myself in the 4x world you have my attention. I have a LQ4 sitting here that 'needs' a home. I know you mentioned it earlier - or at least I thought but can't see it now - who is doing your tuning?

Hoping maybe we can get a Bu crew get together going this summer. Lots of us from the Lower mainland on here. More than a few with square windshields too!

Edited January 18, 2016 by dmc

[2014Skier]

@Dare, We'll most likely be up at Kalamalka some time this summer, we recently got a place on Okanagan lake, and I'd love to try Bare Footing, I'm sure I'll get hooked.

@MB, good luck working on the props, I'm sure it will make a huge difference.

@Levi, I do have plans to put a wedge on the boat, I'll build it myself, and am gonna try to make it a power wedge. I was planning on doing that over next winter, time is too tight now.

@DMC, good to see there are more LS guys out there, I love those motors. I'm sure you'll find a home for that LQ, they do fit just about anywhere. I'm gonna run Holley HP efi, which is self tuning, so I'm gonna take care of that myself. I thought about going EFI live, but I don't have the time to spend getting it dialed in.

I got the windshield frame painted, cleaned everything up and put it all together, the drivers side small triangle tint got screwed up when I put the frame sides on cause the rubber "U" was too tight. The laminated glass is a bit thicker then the original, and I ended up trimming a bit off the rubber "U" to make it all fit nicely. The frame doesn't fit absolutely perfect, but its way better then the mangled broken mess it was when I got it. Of course I had to put the TMC sticker on too.

[2014Skier]

I got the tiller all trimmed up and the bracket attached to the strut mounts, the exhaust couplers are on too. I can't attach the pipe yet as I need some angles welded on the end once I get the motor in its final resting position. I also got the stuffing block, prop shaft and prop installed. It's all coming together, the motor alignment is gonna take some doing, the rear mounts should be fine, but the front has to drop down significantly so that is gonna take some modifications.

[Woodski]

@2014Skier: When you hit the water, particularly with a different and new rudder, you might end up doing some rudder tuning (ideally a slight pull to the right is desired). There are several threads on various sites that provide the rudder grinding details on tuning a rudder to your particular needs. Let me know if you want / need more info.

[2014Skier]

@Woodski, I've read about rudder tuning a little bit, but not a ton yet. The previous owner of this ruder, from a Prostar, ground off the right trailing edge a bit, to induce a pull. If you've got some good info I'd appreciate it to save me hunting down the good stuff.

Also I think the idea of a lowermainland TMC meet this summer would be awesome.

[Malibu Jordy]

Skier, wow. You worked wonders on that old mangled window frame. Looks good man!

[Woodski]

@2014Skier: Sounds like he ground correctly, I would try and see how you like it before additional grinding. PM sent on some compiled rudder grinding info. Basically, to induce right pull torque for a LH rotation prop, grind a bit on the right trailing edge, go slowly and evaluate at each step.

[2014Skier]

@MalibuJordy, thanks man, it was one of the things that I really didn't know what to do with. I had tired to buy two different windshields, but they fell through. It took me hours with body hammers, blocks, vises, etc etc to manipulate it all back, close to new. It is not perfect, but pretty dang good, nothing some flat black paint cant help cover up .

@Woodski, thanks for the rudder tuning info.

I got some more progress done, though took one step back too. I started on the prop shaft alignment and was able to get the rear mounts to line up no problem, the issue is with the front ones, I cant adjust them low enough. I have a couple options figured out, but will do more brainstorming. Not the end of the world, just a bit frustrating, could have something to do with lots of things, or a combo of things, not dwelling on why, just gonna figure out how to fix it.

I did get my blacked out pylon installed, I call it the "murder pylon" its powder coated mat black, I'm happy with the way it looks, should look good with the black floor etc.

I also got the drivers seat base in, its bonded with 3M 4200 and then screwed into those aluminum and fibreglass mounts that I made, it'll swivel and slide so I can swing it around if we are just chillin' on the water.

The observers seat back is in now, it's bolted to the upper deck in five spots from behind with nut-serts, and also to the base attached to the deck, in three spots. I've got to make the seat base now and the pass through piece.

[dmc]

I think I might have to copy that pivoting base idea. Always been something that bugged me with mine.

I am jealous of your progress and really wish I could be working on mine over the winter. My shop is too full of other projects in various stages to get the boat in there. I have to wait till apr/may to get it home and start on a bit of work.

I have heard good things about HP EFI but never used it myself. I have hptuners already so it is my go to for LS stuff - I may invest in EFI live as I have a fummins swap "in the works".

100% we are doing a Lower mainland TMC GTG

[2014Skier]

DMC, I got the pivoting/sliding base from one of those wholesale aftermarket type places, the name escapes me right now, wasn't that expensive. I was considering going with EFI live instead of the Holley cause I've got a CTD that's all hot rodded and wanted to have more options that I currently do with my Smarty ME, but right now its a time crunch and I think the Holley will be a breeze to get running good.

I stripped the motor box down and did some mock up with the motor in a close to final resting spot, if I was running an LS3 manifold it would all fit, and fit even better if I put the manifold on backwards and the fresh water cooling across the front of the motor. The truck manifold is tall, and the throttle body is angled up a bit so no chance of a spark arrestor/filter fitting. End result, small hood scoop, and adding about an inch to the bottom of the box. I marked up and chopped a nice big opening into the top and front of the motor box, and will make a scoop that fits on top, only about 1" tall but projecting forward at the front angled edge to allow room for a filter. Plan right now is to make it out of aluminum, paint it matt black, and bolt it through the vinyl on the top of the box with stainless screws spaced closely.

I'm working on the cooling system now too, most likely gonna mount a remote mount exchanger at the rear of the doghouse some where around the output shaft flange, there is lots of space there.

[tvano]

that much intake noise in your left ear going to be a pia?