2013 24 MXZ System Install Pics

[Try2paz]

Great build! I'm curious to how the kicker tower speakers sound? Did kicker give you wholesale for allowing them every inch in your boat

[TallRedRider]

Looks awesome! Did you move your batteries? I have a '13 22 MXZ and don't like that the batteries take up so much room in my storage locker. Just curious how hard it is to move them.

Also, what did you as paneling to cover all the amp wires? It looks crisp!

Previous years' Malibus have not had enough room to move the batteries under the seats. It is a pretty easy job to move them, and I moved mine in my 2006. Conveniently, the previous owner had switched the stock lead acid batteries to some Odyssey AGM batteries which are a little shorter, and also don't need a box. So my job to move them was pretty easy.

When your batteries need replacing, moving them under the seat is one of the best things you can do to free up that storage space. Or just bite the bullet and buy some shorter batteries and do it tomorrow.

And trog, awesome install!!! Thanks for showing off some of Mike's work. I've talked to Mike a number of times and he always has top notch ideas.

Edited March 9, 2014 by TallRedRider

[thtrog]

Great build! I'm curious to how the kicker tower speakers sound? Did kicker give you wholesale for allowing them every inch in your boat

I've had KICKER gear in every boat I've owned, back to a '01 Tige. I've shared on here before my son was a sponsored rider back when he competed, but we've always used KICKER in our trucks and boat. I just replaced the factory paper OEM's in my old Wrangler and just that swap was huge upgrade. Look up Mike's LIquid's Audio and you can see under "installs" all the systems he's done for me. To answer your question, love the towers in long range or close field they sound great.

[thtrog]

No heater to deal with

Enclosure is sealed and right at 3.0 ft3 gross internal. It required enlarging the OEM opening where the plastic insert was and also eliminated the little storage pocket thats behind the starboard bow seat back. It also required elongating the hole into the bilge, so the hose, etc, could be moved forward a few inches.

Here's shot of the sub box from the bow access

[thtrog]

BTW, I didn't note, but that access was finished off with a carpeted panel and the original strut. You can access the Viper box from there without removing the sub...MLA does excellent work.

[Brent Wall]

Eddie,

Just curious, why was the bow access port necessary? Couldn't you just install the box from the driver's foot well (and take it out if service was needed)?

What material was used to construct and cover your box? It looks like some form of bed liner.

What RGB LED controller are you using?

--- Brent

Edited March 11, 2014 by Brent Wall

[thtrog]

Brent, Pretty sure Mike uses 3/4" birch plywood for the sub box, then resign coats it inside and out. I'm not sure what the grey coating is, but he does it himself in the shop. The LED & music controller is by Oznium and is remote control. The box is installed through the foot well, the bow access was from the factory with a lift up cushion. He removed the small cubby to make room and made new cover from carpeted HDPE. I removed to check my horn when I took the above picture, here's what it looked like from the factory.

[Burt77]

Very impressive install! That is such a sweet ride you have. I'm curious how you're powering everything. What's your battery setup?

I have an '05 23LSV with an Wet Sounds SD6 running at 2ohms (290W x 6) and RF M1200.1D running at 1ohm (1200W) on a RF T2D215. I have a group 29 starting battery, original alternator, and a Kinetik HC2000 as a secondary all on a perko. I haven't run it hard yet. Not sure I have enough juice in. I'm at about 3000W if I really get into it. Not sure I can run it wide open and run the switch in the "all" position. Mixing battery types makes me nervous. Any advice? Much appreciated!

[MLA]

Very impressive install! That is such a sweet ride you have. I'm curious how you're powering everything. What's your battery setup?

I have an '05 23LSV with an Wet Sounds SD6 running at 2ohms (290W x 6) and RF M1200.1D running at 1ohm (1200W) on a RF T2D215. I have a group 29 starting battery, original alternator, and a Kinetik HC2000 as a secondary all on a perko. I haven't run it hard yet. Not sure I have enough juice in. I'm at about 3000W if I really get into it. Not sure I can run it wide open and run the switch in the "all" position. Mixing battery types makes me nervous. Any advice? Much appreciated!

Group-24 Interstate marine cranking and 100Ah Shuriken AGM on the house side. No issues with this setup, since they are on different banks and not wired together. Only "combined" through the ACR when the engine is running.

800W rms to the tower setup

800W rms to the sub

400W rms to the in-boats

How long are you wanting to run the system with the engine off?