Heater tube install pics in VLX/suggestions

[martinarcher]

Thats what I'm thinking too. Only issue I can imagine is if the air is actually too hot?

That would be a pretty awesome problem...I always run the blower on high so I would guess low would take care of that.

[tideride]

Can someone explain a little about the relay they would use (spec's/ sizing) for wiring in the pump?

[shawndoggy]

Can someone explain a little about the relay they would use (spec's/ sizing) for wiring in the pump?

a bosch 5 pin relay (generic is fine; these are on ebay for about $2 apiece, or you can get one at autozone for $12-15). Wired like this:

The above assumes that your heater is wired "on/off" rather than using the three speed switch. If you use a three or two speed switch, the above relay diagram would only turn the pump on when the heater is on high.

[NorrisMike]

Time will tell if the aerator pump works out. I will post my results - good or bad. I'd be thrilled if it lasted a few seasons for $18.

[tideride]

a bosch 5 pin relay (generic is fine; these are on ebay for about $2 apiece, or you can get one at autozone for $12-15). Wired like this:

The above assumes that your heater is wired "on/off" rather than using the three speed switch. If you use a three or two speed switch, the above relay diagram would only turn the pump on when the heater is on high.

Perfect. I'm glad you included the last sentence. I was thinking that was the case. Thanks for confirmation and the diagram!

[D-GOOSE]

NorrisMike. The only thing that I would check out (you may have already) is if that pump can handle 180deg F temps. I have a inline filter for my hot shower and have melted a few before finding one that could handle the heat.

I just ordered it after seeing Bill's post so I haven't changed anything yet, but after thinking about it, I'm thinking I'm going to need to put the return "T" between the tranny cooler and my impeller pump (basically downstream of the impeller pump). If not, the warm water is going to get sucked out of the block and blown out of my raw water intake on the bottom of the boat.

Thoughts?

Might cool the water down a little faster when the eng is off. I'm looking as we need to keep a closed loop system so the water stays warm longer and heats up faster.

As a side note. I know in a car, if you don't have or a stuck open thermostat that the water will not have a chance to cool down in the radiator because, it is circulating to fast. If we put a high speed pump in the heater system, would the hot water transfer to the core faster, slower or no difference?

[Fman]

Time will tell if the aerator pump works out. I will post my results - good or bad. I'd be thrilled if it lasted a few seasons for $18.

I was thinking the same thing, I have an extra Piranha 800 sitting around right now. I am concerned this might be too much pressure on the system? and can it handle the heat of the water from the engine block? What do you think? I did locate a very nice Johnson Magnetic driven pump, they are super quiet and are designed for continuous run times. They are a little pricey, but are specifically designed for this task and only draw 3 amps. The 300H heatercraft only draws 9.2 amps on high heat, I dont think adding another 3 amps to the system would overload it? It would be super easy to just tie directly into the hot wire for the heater unit.

I am sure a hotwater shower pump woul work, but they are very loud in comparison to the magnetic driven pumps and are almost the same cost.

http://www.marinepartssource.com/newdetails.asp?mfgno=10-24488-03&pnumber=JP102448803&mfg=JOHNSON%20PUMP&desc=5/8%20In.%20Cm30p7-1%20Magnetic%20Driven%20Centrifigual%20Pump

Edited March 7, 2013 by Fman

[Fman]

I like the look of THIS solar circulation pump (and the price). Does the circulation pump restrict water flow when the pump is off? If so, I'm assuming that would not be a problem...correct?

That looks like a great option, I cant see any reasons why this pump would not work for this application. Does anyone else see any problems with it? I could not find AMP draw, but assuming it has to be very low (under 3).

[martinarcher]

Might cool the water down a little faster when the eng is off. I'm looking as we need to keep a closed loop system so the water stays warm longer and heats up faster.

As a side note. I know in a car, if you don't have or a stuck open thermostat that the water will not have a chance to cool down in the radiator because, it is circulating to fast. If we put a high speed pump in the heater system, would the hot water transfer to the core faster, slower or no difference?

Placing the "T" after the impeller pump would re-circulate the heater water through the block, but after the t-stat begins to close, I would imagine your going to see the temp slowly drop on the heater output.

Bill, where did your buddy tap into his engine cooling system with his pump set-up?

[martinarcher]

That looks like a great option, I cant see any reasons why this pump would not work for this application. Does anyone else see any problems with it? I could not find AMP draw, but assuming it has to be very low (under 3).

Nope, that's the pump I ordered.

[Fman]

Nope, that's the pump I ordered.

Martin, what vendor did you go with? do you have the link? there about 30 of them on Ebay.

[martinarcher]

I bought the one off the vendor Bill linked to in the first page....this one. I bought the 10 LPM one off that auction.

[shawndoggy]

Hey MA, here's how PCM says to do it with no Y Pipe. Of course with no pump, it works terribly, but with the pump it should be great. This also jibes with the heatercraft instructions Bill linked to.

you don't actually need to T into the raw water side at all.

Edited March 8, 2013 by shawndoggy

[Fman]

Dexter did exactly what I was trying to say.

I like that install, assuming it clears the storage tray with no issues. This is definitely an option I will consider.... I do have something else I am going to try, I have not seen it done yet but I think its going to work perfect. Thanks for all the posts and pics, I can hardly wait to get started on this project! hurry up April!!!

[martinarcher]

Hey MA, here's how PCM says to do it with no Y Pipe. Of course with no pump, it works terribly, but with the pump it should be great. This also jibes with the heatercraft instructions Bill linked to.

you don't actually need to T into the raw water side at all.

Thanks Shawn...looks like I'll have a "T" for sale and just need a barb fitting to add to the water pump. Easy....I like it.

[NorrisMike]

Fyi- I believe the circulation pump has pipe style threads whereas the intake manifold has standard style threads.

[NorrisMike]

Just a quick update. First time out the other day and the heater worked good. No leaks and the little aerator pump seemed to do a decent job. It didn't want to prime at first at just an idle but after I took off it forced the water through. After the system was primed, it was good the rest of the day. The heat still drops at an idle to more of a warm temp but as soon as you get going it kicks back up pretty quick. I am curious to see what happens next time out since there is some water in the lines now. I think the system will prime at an idle now but who knows... It was a nice option to have after I took my 56 degree slalom run!

[wakeparadise]

I installed mine like this:<br /><br />Also the circ pump like this:<br /><br /><br /><br />The hot tube in the starboard cup holder area pulls out. We had to extend the tub out a bit to make it fit but then covered it in carpet to match and look "OEM"<br /><br />We ran the boat today in the driveway and all worked very well. We just hooked up the power from the supplied wire harness on the boat to the "high" on the heater as the VLX MTC "switch" has its own resistor for high/low. The pump is on its own circuit with a relay to to the blower.

Edited April 18, 2013 by wakeparadise

[Bill_AirJunky]

My hot tube is in the walk thru too. It's almost worthless. When it's cool out, the windshield is closed, and everyone piles their gear up in that spot. So inevitably we are digging thru gear to find the hot tube. Then putting it away is even worse.

[Fman]

I have found the hot tube in the walkway is good for passengers sitting in the bow area. Most of the time it's the kids, because the adults are behind the windscreen in the lounge area.

[NorrisMike]

UPDATE - 2nd time out the pump failed and began to leak. I wouldn't recommend the aerator pump for this. It warped where it seals around the o-ring. Not good. Going to try it without a pump while I look for a better option.

[FastFreddy]

Which pump were you using that failed? the eBay aerotor "solar" pump?

UPDATE - 2nd time out the pump failed and began to leak. I wouldn't recommend the aerator pump for this. It warped where it seals around the o-ring. Not good. Going to try it without a pump while I look for a better option.

[FastFreddy]

I bought the solar pump from eBay. Heater install in the next few weeks.

[BlackBluMalibu]

This is the link to the same pump bake sells for 250 for 145. This is who I bought from and installed a dual 300 series... Works great! No issues and easy to install.

http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/jabsco.html

Good luck!

Edited May 11, 2013 by BlackBluMalibu

[Fman]

This is the link to the same pump bake sells for 250 for 145. This is who I bought from and installed a dual 300 series... Works great! No issues and easy to install.

http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/jabsco.html

Good luck!

Is that pump ignition protected? Where did you mount it?