Steering Cable Replacement

[Canyon Blue]

I pulled out the steering cable from my 2000 Sunsetter VLX this afternoon in about 40 minutes, thanks to all the great info on the forum. Thanks, all! I heeded the advice of others and removed the captain's chair and the floor panel over the fuel tank first. Under the floor, the cable was zip tied to the two throttle cables with screw mount ties, and screwed into the stringer. I would never have gotten it out without clipping these ties. In the ski locker, it seems the steering cable is a popular thing to zip tie all manner of wires, cables and hoses to. The hardest part for me was getting the big nut on the end of the cable up through the hole between the ski locker and under the dash. In my boat there are four ballast hoses, two heater hoses, steering and throttle cables and a pile of wires competing for space in this zone hidden carefully behind the third heater output duct... just take your time and be careful. The new cable is in transit now. I hope it goes in as easy...

[Slayer]

Ok.....I've read this and nearly all of the other threads on cable replacement. I'm going to replace my cable this season before the boat goes in. In looking at my helm, I have a rotary system. So, I have the following questions from the experts.

1. Is it worth replacing the helm with a rack & pinion system?
2. Is it better to simply by another rotary cable and call it good?
3. Does anyone know if the rotary helm came stock on a 1997 SSLX? I looked at the helm (boat is still "sleeping" in the garage with the cover on, so it was difficult to see well) it looks like the manufacturer's sticker is worn to the point where I can't read it. I assume it's Teleflex, but not sure.
4. I was under the impression, based on http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1466 that it should have a rack & pinion stock.

Thanks in advace.

[davemac]

Doing my first steering cable. Disconnected cable from rudder (thought that would be the hard part). Three questions...

Q1. Any tricks to backing off the silver nut (being pointed at by the screwdriver in the picture)? When I try to loosen it, the entire black "channel/tube" turns with it. DISREGARD: I got it...went back in this thread...doused it w/ PB Blaster and WD40. Still needed to grab the tube with a real small pipe wrench (always knew someday I would need that tool...thanks Dad). It still took an awful lot of force to break loose.

Q2. Is the metal mounting arm supposed to pivot freely? I started loosening it, then thought better of it...didn't notice before I started loosening whether it moved.

Q3. A buddy of mine (SN owner) recommended packing the "tube" with a marine grade grease before installing the new cable. Does anyone see an advantage to this?

TIA

Edited May 4, 2013 by davemac

[EchelonMike]

Doing my first steering cable. Disconnected cable from rudder (thought that would be the hard part). Three questions...

Q1. Any tricks to backing off the silver nut (being pointed at by the screwdriver in the picture)? When I try to loosen it, the entire black "channel/tube" turns with it. DISREGARD: I got it...went back in this thread...doused it w/ PB Blaster and WD40. Still needed to grab the tube with a real small pipe wrench (always knew someday I would need that tool...thanks Dad). It still took an awful lot of force to break loose.

TIA

This nut kept me from getting the cable done today. I will try blasting it. I started grabbing the tube to keep it from turning with channel locks but was worried I would crush it. Can I squeeze it hard without issue? Can I grab the end of the cable next to the nut instead since it is the old cable and who cares if it gets screwed up? Any advice here helpful!

[davemac]

I don't think grabbing the old cable will help...it will just spin. As mentioned, I had a real small pipe wrench. It chewed up the tube, but did not crush it. Soak it and give it a go w/ vice grips.

[Slayer]

Doing my first steering cable. Disconnected cable from rudder (thought that would be the hard part). Three questions...

Q1. Any tricks to backing off the silver nut (being pointed at by the screwdriver in the picture)? When I try to loosen it, the entire black "channel/tube" turns with it. DISREGARD: I got it...went back in this thread...doused it w/ PB Blaster and WD40. Still needed to grab the tube with a real small pipe wrench (always knew someday I would need that tool...thanks Dad). It still took an awful lot of force to break loose.

Q2. Is the metal mounting arm supposed to pivot freely? I started loosening it, then thought better of it...didn't notice before I started loosening whether it moved.

Q3. A buddy of mine (SN owner) recommended packing the "tube" with a marine grade grease before installing the new cable. Does anyone see an advantage to this?

TIA

Relative to Q3, I greased the tube on mine when I replaced the cable this spring. It was a dirty mess in there and I suggest cleaning it with a wood dowel wrapped with emery cloth. Vacuum it out, apply a light coat of marine grease, then install the cable. It made a HUGE difference for me.

[davemac]

the good folks at skidim (where I purchased my cable) recommended, and indicated that they grease the tube.

[jleahy62]

This place

will get you the dead-nuts correct part the first time.

Tell them I sent you.

I have a 1999 Sunsetter VLX and the fitting chart listed on the Bakes page does not have a 99 Sunsetter VLX Listed. Does anyone have the part number or Bakes link to the steering cable for the 1999 Sunsetter VLX?

[Steve5sst]

On Bakes' website there is a contact link and two guys listed for parts. Either call or e-mail them with your question. They are SUPER helpful and respond quickly.

Edited June 14, 2013 by Steve5sst

[jwl019]

I'm glad thats done. BTW- no zip ties in 04 it has a seperate cavity for the cable.

No zip ties and had a separate cavity in my '01 as well. Spent more time removing floor and looking for the ties than it took me to remove/replace the cable.

[Hyperlite22]

My boat is a 99 Wakesetter direct drive. The new cable will not go more than a few feet into the hole under the helm. There is a string tied to the new cable that will not pull it through. The nut is taped.

Is there any trick to getting the cable past a snag? My father and I pushed and pulled for over an hour with no luck. The cable gets stuck at the same point: about three feet in.

Our next step is to cut a hole in the floor of the compartment under the driver's seat. Are there any obvious ramifications to this? This is a last resort.

Thank you to anyone willing to help.

[saskicker32]

So I'm currently in the process of redoing my steering cable on my '03 VLX and I removed the sub so I could get better access to under the dash. Yet I cannot for the life of me get the rudder connection rod through the hole in the floor under the dash. It has the ballast drain hoses, heater hoses and wiring coming through as well. I taped the rod so it could not extend but it is still like 12" long and even without all the extra stuff coming through that hole it seems like it would make the turn and fit through. Any recommendations or tips? I was really hoping it would not be this difficult.

PS I'm using the method of cutting the old cable at the helm and using it as the snake. I would really like to get on the water in like 2 weeks so I want to accomplish this.

[racer808]

So I'm currently in the process of redoing my steering cable on my '03 VLX and I removed the sub so I could get better access to under the dash. Yet I cannot for the life of me get the rudder connection rod through the hole in the floor under the dash. It has the ballast drain hoses, heater hoses and wiring coming through as well. I taped the rod so it could not extend but it is still like 12" long and even without all the extra stuff coming through that hole it seems like it would make the turn and fit through. Any recommendations or tips? I was really hoping it would not be this difficult.

PS I'm using the method of cutting the old cable at the helm and using it as the snake. I would really like to get on the water in like 2 weeks so I want to accomplish this.

I took a dremmel & made my hole a little bigger, & cut a notch towards the nose of the boat so the rudder attachment would have more room to angle in. I also used that weed eater cable everyone says to use to pull a stronger rope thru, then my buddy pushed & I pulled like hell till it was in & it was smooth sailing after that

[saskicker32]

Just some tips for people trying to do it later, as racer said above, use a dremel to open up the hole under the helm. Once it gets through there, it was a breeze. Also I did not remove my heater before doing the install. If your's is easily removed I recommend that, but if not my recommendation is send the steering cable over the heater and not under it. When I tried to go under it was at too low of an angle entering the hole through the floor making it impossible to make the turn towards the stern. I rerouted it over the heater and the high angle allowed the cable to make the corner much easier.

[JulioEstevez]

Help i'm stuck...!!!

Trying to take off the old steering cable and i can't unscrew the nut that holds the cable in the tube. The whole tube turns when i try to unscrew the big silver nut. Anyone had a problem with that? I tried holding the tube with vice grips but i don't want to damage it. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JulioEstevez]

Nevermind, i gripped the tube pretty hard with the vice grips and it finally gave away...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[williemon]

Pipe wrench? It will leave tooth marks. How about strap wrenches or rubber belts to grip it?

[oldjeep]

Help i'm stuck...!!!

Trying to take off the old steering cable and i can't unscrew the nut that holds the cable in the tube. The whole tube turns when i try to unscrew the big silver nut. Anyone had a problem with that? I tried holding the tube with vice grips but i don't want to damage it. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Put a wrench on the tube nut closest to the cable nut. if stuff still spins then tighten up the 2 tube nuts and try it again. The force of you trying to remove the cable nut should want to tighten the tube nut and hold it in place.

[JulioEstevez]

Put a wrench on the tube nut closest to the cable nut. if stuff still spins then tighten up the 2 tube nuts and try it again. The force of you trying to remove the cable nut should want to tighten the tube nut and hold it in place.

I should have tightened these 2 nuts even harder... It worked by holding the tube with rounded vise grips, it left some small scratches but i will know better if i need to change the cable again... Hopefully not anytime soon

Btw thanks for the instructions i managed to change the steering cable in a little over 2,5 hours, and as everyone, probably could do it in an hour and a half the second time...!!

[minnmarker]

OK, got the new cable and ready to go at it tomorrow. Have read all the comments. Thanks everyone!

Question: What's the best way to get the new cable in:

1: Cut old rack off and tape new cable (I assume the metal shaft) to the helm end of the old cable and pull assembly through towards stern. I assume lots of duct tape well up both new and old!

2: Cut old rack off and tape strong cord (thinking 1/8" nylon) to helm end of the old cable and pull through - then pull new cable through towards stern with cord.

3: Leave old rack on and tie cord to rudder end of old cable and pull through towards helm - then pull new cable through towards stern with cord.

2005 Sunscape LSV 21.5 with Diamond hull. BTW, I don't have any heater or ballast hoses. The gas tank fits very tight between two stringers with no room on either side and no visual evidence of any cables or wiring.

[oldjeep]

OK, got the new cable and ready to go at it tomorrow. Have read all the comments. Thanks everyone!

Question: What's the best way to get the new cable in:

1: Cut old rack off and tape new cable (I assume the metal shaft) to the helm end of the old cable and pull assembly through towards stern. I assume lots of duct tape well up both new and old!

2: Cut old rack off and tape strong cord (thinking 1/8" nylon) to helm end of the old cable and pull through - then pull new cable through towards stern with cord.

3: Leave old rack on and tie cord to rudder end of old cable and pull through towards helm - then pull new cable through towards stern with cord.

2005 Sunscape LSV 21.5 with Diamond hull. BTW, I don't have any heater or ballast hoses. The gas tank fits very tight between two stringers with no room on either side and no visual evidence of any cables or wiring.

Well, when I did one in a response a few weeks ago I went with #1 and it worked well.

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/56100-steering-cable-change-lxi/?hl=%2Bsteering+%2Bcable

[minnmarker]

Got it done in 2 hours - not counting hauling everything to and from the boat.

Great advice above!

In my boat (Sunscape 21 LSV) the cable ran through the channel on the starboard side of the gas tank. There was a stringer separating it from the gas tank. Ski locker was not involved at all. It was an easy pull through using the cut of the old rack and tape the cables together method. The small pipe wrench was invaluable in getting the large silver nut off. I just did that right away and the nut came off easy. The only thing I would have done differently in hindsight would be to run a pull line through with the cable in case I want to add hoses or wiring in the future. There seemed to be a lot of room down there.

Steering is now "one finger!"

[Chatty21VLX]

I think I need to tackle this project. Steering my boat isn't fun at all.

Why is the link to the original article not working? All it does is take me back to the diy index page. I read another writeup of this job, but want to see this one in case there are more or different pics.

[formulaben]

15 hours ago, Chatty21VLX said:

Why is the link to the original article not working?

Try it again...just worked for me.

[henrik]

I’m battling this right now and welcome any ideas! Windy1 has already helped but I’m still struggling. 

The nut that attaches to the pivot tube seem to get stuck on a piece of pvc pipe our friends at Malibu put in there. Not sure what it’s for, still it’s in the way!!

My thoughts now are to remove one or both heater hoses running in there. Alternatively try to “steer” nut underneath pvc pipe. I think last option may give me more trouble pulling new cable past from the front where I will have no option to manipulate cable, only pull  

Apologies for the poor picture, taking off the screen off a backup camera I put in a hole by transmission. 

 

Any help is appreciated.