To Sand the Teak or Not to Not Sand the Teak...

[EchelonMike]

Ya think? I think I am going to start with the oil first, just because I have it here. Can you put the TE KA on after the oil if I don't like the result?

If you don't have a lot of nicks or cuts to sand out of it, I have great luck rubbing the platform down by hand with steel wool. I then mix some trisodium phosphate and water in a bucket and scrub out all the sawdust generated by the steel wool with a scrub brush. Once it dries, it is usually almost white in color. I then put a few coats of traditional teak oil on it and it looks flat out amazing.

I may try something new like MartinArcher used or this TE AK stuff, because traditional oil I think looks the best but the results don't last very long.

-- Mike

[Steve B.]

Mines all sanded waiting for a little "lazer" etching ! Used a palm sander with just 80 grit. Maybe paint your deck brackets too.

After etching (only $50), I'm going to paint the etched part bright red, then after drying teak oil the whole thing.

I"ll post some pics when complete.

Steve B.

[wacko]

What you need to be careful of is sanding too much that the tips of the screws from underneath poke through. I have heard of a few people having this happen.

[martinarcher]

Ya think? I think I am going to start with the oil first, just because I have it here. Can you put the TE KA on after the oil if I don't like the result?

I've never tried putting Starbrite Team Sealer on top of oil, but I don't think it would turn out near as good or last as long as simply applying it to a freshly landed and deck. Not many finishes stick well to an oiled surface.

[CoMtnBu]

I agree, nothing looks better than a nice wood platform hanging off the back end.

I'll second the Watco Teak Oil, got mine at the local home depot. Two coats in the spring and the platform looks great come fall, no maintenance.

I've used both StarBrite and West Marine teak oil in the past, but the Watco lasts much longer.

It really helps having a cover over the teak, mine covers the whole platform. Some guys have had covers made for the platforms.

[Oberon]

I'm in the don't sand camp but it is a matter of personal preference. I rehabbed my platform last fall and wrote about it here.

I chose not to sand because I used a product called TeakGaurd and was concerned about it getting slippery. My platform has a lot of grain which I think looks nice but it certainly doesn't look new; if you want it to look new standing is probably the way to go.

[REW]

I agree, nothing looks better than a nice wood platform hanging off the back end.

I'll second the Watco Teak Oil, got mine at the local home depot. Two coats in the spring and the platform looks great come fall, no maintenance.

I've used both StarBrite and West Marine teak oil in the past, but the Watco lasts much longer.

It really helps having a cover over the teak, mine covers the whole platform. Some guys have had covers made for the platforms.

If you cover doesn't cover the teak do what ever you have to, to keep it covered.

[hethj7]

martinarcher - Is your deck slick at all? It looks fantastic!

[WakingMeHappy]

martinarcher - Is your deck slick at all? It looks fantastic!

Mine is not slick and no one has ever slipped off...unless pushed.

[martinarcher]

martinarcher - Is your deck slick at all? It looks fantastic!

Thanks! No, never had any trouble with it at all. The Starbrite Teak Sealer isn't a slick substance at all. It has a bit of a waxy feel immediately after it dries. I just hit it with a dry rag and rub it the rest of the way off and it is good to go for the entire season! I'll never use oil again - just too much work reapplying to keep it looking as good as I want.

[martinarcher]

Mine is not slick and no one has ever slipped off...unless pushed.

I'm always catching someone off guard on the platform with the old start it and goose it quick trick.

[MalibuNation]

I used a belt sander ... very gently. Aliso I'm a Teakguard user and it last all season even with the rear of my boat facing south when not in use.

Edited March 7, 2011 by MalibuNation

[MalibuNation]

PS make sure it's not too cold to apply whatever product you choose.

[Woodski]

For that 94 Echelon platform rehad project, I would highly recommend making a "ski bumper" similar to the most recent platform picture post. It is the piece attached to the top of the platform at the transom. It really helps keep the skis/boards from bumping and marring the transom glecoat. If your local dealer has a used up platform he will sell cheap, that is a good way to get the part you would need to attach to the top. I made one and it really helps along with making the platform a little sturdier.

[MalibuNation]

This is where I got my transom guard:

http://teakworldenterprises.samsbiz.com/

[Michigan boarder]

This is perfect, I was at the lake house yesterday and brought my platform back with me for the purpose of refinishing.

On the teak guard, do boards leave the little scuffs on it like they do to a teak-oiled deck? Or is it more durable? Also, has anyone ever had to remove the teak guard to refinish? That is, do you do a simple sand in a few years or is it more like a stripping process?

I was going to sand, use the teak cleaner stuff, sand again, then oil. But now I might use the Teak Guard instead. But I might not. One of the things I would do normally is Sunday before leaving the lake I'd smear a coat of oil on the deck and it would take away any scuffs from the weekend and make it look new again, and it would be dry and waiting for me the next time. Will that be no longer necessary with Teak Guard?

[Levi900RR]

I heart teak

[MalibuNation]

I heart teak

Hate?

[MalibuNation]

This is perfect, I was at the lake house yesterday and brought my platform back with me for the purpose of refinishing.

On the teak guard, do boards leave the little scuffs on it like they do to a teak-oiled deck? Or is it more durable? Also, has anyone ever had to remove the teak guard to refinish? That is, do you do a simple sand in a few years or is it more like a stripping process?

I was going to sand, use the teak cleaner stuff, sand again, then oil. But now I might use the Teak Guard instead. But I might not. One of the things I would do normally is Sunday before leaving the lake I'd smear a coat of oil on the deck and it would take away any scuffs from the weekend and make it look new again, and it would be dry and waiting for me the next time. Will that be no longer necessary with Teak Guard?

Boards/fins can scatch ... depending.

I just sand mine every fall ... no stripping. For me it last a whole season.

John, I have a good .pdf on it if you'd like, just pm me your email address, thanks!

[Levi900RR]

Hate?

[WakingMeHappy]

I used a belt sander ... very gently. Aliso I'm a Teakguard user and it last all season even with the rear of my boat facing south when not in use.

Nice touch with Gumby!

[MalibuNation]

Nice touch with Gumby!

My spotter

[luvtheBU]

Mines all sanded waiting for a little "lazer" etching ! Used a palm sander with just 80 grit. Maybe paint your deck brackets too.

After etching (only $50), I'm going to paint the etched part bright red, then after drying teak oil the whole thing.

I"ll post some pics when complete.

Steve B.

Dude that is a killer idea... I almost bought some teal blue stain, but I chickened out..... the etching idea ...nice hurry up get to it, I wanna see it...

[luvtheBU]

Roky Doky here is the new pics of the deck. I just used a little deck cleaner after I sanded and then used Watco Teak Oil, but there are still a few edges I need to soften up and then I will probably try the Teakguard.

Edited March 12, 2011 by luvtheBU

[WakingMeHappy]

Beautiful!!!