Surfing Ballast for VTX

[Koop]

What prop did you have before? I'm running the acme 1235, and I'm at altitude. I have a few issues getting out of the hole while wakebaording when running heavy.

stock acme 537

[CJAY]

stock acme 537

We had the same and it was terrible even with a little weight, 1235 is sooo much better. Not perfect, but much better

[TrickyNicky]

Since this thread is clearly hi-jacked, I was wondering how much you guys lost off your top end when you went from the stock prop to your current ones. I've had the boat weighted with 10 ppl before and full stock ballast and it takes it's time to get out of the hole. I've also had the same weight for surfing and the throttle control was basically pinned and the boat never planed. As a result I've always considered a new prop but was always concerned with losing my barefooting speeds.

Any insight on how much top end you lost? And for the record, I'm not at altitude.

[CJAY]

Since this thread is clearly hi-jacked, I was wondering how much you guys lost off your top end when you went from the stock prop to your current ones. I've had the boat weighted with 10 ppl before and full stock ballast and it takes it's time to get out of the hole. I've also had the same weight for surfing and the throttle control was basically pinned and the boat never planed. As a result I've always considered a new prop but was always concerned with losing my barefooting speeds.

Any insight on how much top end you lost? And for the record, I'm not at altitude.

I lost about 3-4 mph off the top end. Not even enough to really notice.

How much weight are you running in the bow?

[TrickyNicky]

I lost about 3-4 mph off the top end. Not even enough to really notice.

How much weight are you running in the bow?

Well I currently only have stock ballast including the 350 bow tank (always full), when I have 10 ppl in the boat there's prob another 400lbs up there for both surfing and wake. Not something I get often but with a new surf ballast setup coming (hence this topic), I'd like to get out of the whole a bit faster, but I could only lose 2mph of top speed when I barefoot.

[TrickyNicky]

Solid reply Paul, Thanks

So I'm thinking with the 750 in the locker and the 370 under the seat and than some connection between the two. As stated this would allow me to have one pump fill them both at the same time.

Why would you suggest a ball valve? Would a simple hose connecting the two not be suffice? Fill the 750 from the top and connect the drain from the 750 to the fill of the 370, that way the pressure from the 750 fills the 370? Than you would still be able to drain them both from the 370's drain.

Another option I just considered is having both the fills connected with a t or y connector and both the drains conneted with a t or y connector. That way the pump can just be connected to the single y connection and fill both bags. I do think this would be slower to fill because of the pressure buildup in the 370 before the 750 is full, could be wrong though.

Let me know what you think or point out any mistakes in my thinking. I am completely new to fat sacs so a parts list would be great.

For the record I wont have any desire to fill the sacs separately either. Either there both full or there both empty.

Thanks and in regards to some of the other comments, thank you for your setup I just want to avoid having any visible bags.

Any update Paul?

[CJAY]

Well I currently only have stock ballast including the 350 bow tank (always full), when I have 10 ppl in the boat there's prob another 400lbs up there for both surfing and wake. Not something I get often but with a new surf ballast setup coming (hence this topic), I'd like to get out of the whole a bit faster, but I could only lose 2mph of top speed when I barefoot.

What speed do you run barefoot?

[old skool malibu]

I lost about 3-4 mph off the top end. Not even enough to really notice.

How much weight are you running in the bow?

I think my top end is around 38-39 and the motor is singing close to redline. I am considering the new ACME 1939. I think the 1939 may do a similar job to the 1235 while keeping revs down a bit making crusing a littie easier on gas? Thoughts? Here is a chart that Paul did up

Acme pretty much made 2 props that are in-between the 1235 and the 537

2079 ------- 14.50 X 12.00 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup (most torque/acceleration)

1615 ------- 14.50 X 13.75 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup

1235 ------- 14.50 X 14.25 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup

1273 --------14.50 X 14.25 VL4B 1.125"Bore .150Cup

1939 -------- 14.00 X 15.50 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup

537 -------- 13.50 X 16.00 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup

381 -------- 13.50 X 17.50 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup

817 -------- 13.50 X 17.50 VL4B 1.125"Bore .150Cup

907 -------- 13.50 X 19.00 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup

417 -------- 14.00 X 20.00 VL4B 1.125"Bore .130Cup (most speed if boat has the power to turn the pitch)

[CJAY]

I think my top end is around 38-39 and the motor is singing close to redline. I am considering the new ACME 1939. I think the 1939 may do a similar job to the 1235 while keeping revs down a bit making crusing a littie easier on gas? Thoughts? Here is a chart that Paul did up

Acme pretty much made 2 props that are in-between the 1235 and the 537

2079 ------- 14.50 X 12.00 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup (most torque/acceleration)

1615 ------- 14.50 X 13.75 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup

1235 ------- 14.50 X 14.25 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup

1273 --------14.50 X 14.25 VL4B 1.125"Bore .150Cup

1939 -------- 14.00 X 15.50 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup

537 -------- 13.50 X 16.00 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup

381 -------- 13.50 X 17.50 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup

817 -------- 13.50 X 17.50 VL4B 1.125"Bore .150Cup

907 -------- 13.50 X 19.00 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup

417 -------- 14.00 X 20.00 VL4B 1.125"Bore .130Cup (most speed if boat has the power to turn the pitch)

Interesting. I may work with my dealre and see if we can do some prop testing between acme and OJ. I never hit the rev limiter with the 1235, but that's probably due to the loss of HP. I think i could probably get a little more pitch if I really wanted to

[old skool malibu]

Interesting. I may work with my dealre and see if we can do some prop testing between acme and OJ. I never hit the rev limiter with the 1235, but that's probably due to the loss of HP. I think i could probably get a little more pitch if I really wanted to

Looking at the chart again perhaps the 1273 may be better? Just a slight change to the cup..I dont really know too much about pitch, cup etc so I would be curious how much different the 1273 would be ober the 1235. The 1939 looks pretty similar the 537 so I am not sure if that would be the right choice?

[TrickyNicky]

Currently boat tops out at 40mph, and I BF at 37.5mph.

For the record at WOT I always hit the rev limiter. Not sure if that means a lower end prop would allow my engine to hit the rev limiter later (in mph) or earlier. Ie would a 1235 run lower or higher rpms than a 537 at a speed of say 35mph?

And finally I'm running the LCR 320

[CJAY]

Currently boat tops out at 40mph, and I BF at 37.5mph.

For the record at WOT I always hit the rev limiter. Not sure if that means a lower end prop would allow my engine to hit the rev limiter later (in mph) or earlier. Ie would a 1235 run lower or higher rpms than a 537 at a speed of say 35mph?

And finally I'm running the LCR 320

It'll run higher, so you'll hit it quicker.

[TrickyNicky]

Hey guys any insight on this???

Solid reply Paul, Thanks

So I'm thinking with the 750 in the locker and the 370 under the seat and than some connection between the two. As stated this would allow me to have one pump fill them both at the same time.

Why would you suggest a ball valve? Would a simple hose connecting the two not be suffice? Fill the 750 from the top and connect the drain from the 750 to the fill of the 370, that way the pressure from the 750 fills the 370? Than you would still be able to drain them both from the 370's drain.

Another option I just considered is having both the fills connected with a t or y connector and both the drains conneted with a t or y connector. That way the pump can just be connected to the single y connection and fill both bags. I do think this would be slower to fill because of the pressure buildup in the 370 before the 750 is full, could be wrong though.

Let me know what you think or point out any mistakes in my thinking. I am completely new to fat sacs so a parts list would be great.

For the record I wont have any desire to fill the sacs separately either. Either there both full or there both empty.

Thanks and in regards to some of the other comments, thank you for your setup I just want to avoid having any visible bags.

[shawndoggy]

Hey guys any insight on this???

Save the money on the connector hose and fittings and by a second pump. you are going to be pumping manually anyway, why not just connect in two places. The hose between them doesn't really get you much but a headache (IMHO and all that).

[CRASH]

I originally ran the 750 in the locker and 370 under seats not plumbed in it took 10 mins or so to fill and drain. Not that big of a deal i got tired of filling bags when we were loading 5 or 6 sacs. I ran a 1235 with this setup but like the fuel economy when i switched to a OJ468 i have since had it worked over some more for extra pull.

[TrickyNicky]

Save the money on the connector hose and fittings and by a second pump. you are going to be pumping manually anyway, why not just connect in two places. The hose between them doesn't really get you much but a headache (IMHO and all that).

Would the hose not be cheaper than the second pump? Not to mention I only have one auxiliary plug in the VTX I believe? Agree on potential headaches though.