impeller replacement

[Pistol Pete]

Any update on availability?

Thanks

Sorry,

It's gone,

I forgot about this when I had to go out of town.

[NWWash]

Replaced my impeller for first time this year, following these directions. Ran great for a day, then during a wakeboard set noticed engine getting hot. Impeller cover had blown off, and all screws missing. Found one in hull, appears in tact and no sign of other ones shearing off or breaking?

Since they are brass, I don't want to over-tighten or use thread lock. But, I don't want to get towed in by police again. Total buzz kill. Teflon tape an option to consider?

Have others had this issue? Seems odd all screws would back out entirely from vibration. Only 90 hours so hard time believing the housing is bad. Impeller was an exact replacement part from Bakes.

[justgary]

Did you check it on the water after you changed it? My cover leaks if the screws aren't tight enough.

If the screws are missing and not sheared, they backed out. It's always a good idea to open the hood and visually inspect things every day of use. I open my hood and peek around every few hours.

If you are nervous about tightening them, a little dab of goo will hold them in. Aviation shellac (Permatex #3, for example, at any auto parts store) is a great choice.

[Pistol Pete]

Awhile ago someone on here posted that they switched out the tiny brass screws and instead, installed studs to the pump side.

I did this myself a while back and it works much better and, easier.

Two things I learned was 1) the threaded holes for the screws are much deeper than the length of the factory screws. 2) I think I found that the screws were actually metric. I think they were M4. So, measure the depth of the screws holes, add in the depth of the gasket and cover, then add in another 1/2 inch and go get some stainless studs. I think I just took some screws I had laying around and cut them to length. Install the studs with loctite and don't over tighten, you're still threading into brass.

Install the gasket and cover and use lock washers under the nuts to keep everything together.

[Levi900RR]

I did my first v drive impeller change this weekend. After all the horror stories on here I was ready for battle... Took me about 15 mins. 4 bolts out, wd40, bumped the starter and pulled it right out with needle nose plyers. Lubed up the new one and slid it in.

[Pistol Pete]

Hope you put anti-sieze on the inner splines of the new impeller.

[Levi900RR]

Hope you put anti-sieze on the inner splines of the new impeller.

yup

Should set me up for a similar experience next year. I couldnt figure out if it was all just going to wash out but figured it was worth a shot.

[yakboat]

On 5/23/2010 at 6:08 PM, srab said:

I have the 2006 model of your boat. On mine, in the port side storage beside

the engine, there is the removable partition, which I take out. Then, there is

the stern-most portion of the partition remaining. It can be easily removed

as well by just removing a single screw. I use a flashlight and a ratchet

wrench, while lying on my right side with my legs fully extended underneath the

the side seat bench partition and my head resting against the transom.

It's a whole lot easier with an impeller puller. But, I doubt you'll be able

to find one locally. With the impeller housing cover off, though, squirt in

some binding lube, as Pete mentioned, and pull the safety lanyard. Then,

crank the motor over for a few seconds. You can use screw-

drivers, or some folks use those paint can openers with the thumb hole and a

bend at the tip. Work it back and forth, but don't leverage against the side

walls of the pump housing. They can be bent/warped. Just be patient.

Pay attention to the letters/numbers on the old hub as you remove the old

impeller. Orient the new impeller exactly the same way. Don't worry about

spline direction as they will correct themselves very quickly the first time

the new impeller spins. When you re-attach the cover, using a new gasket

(should be in the box with the new impeller), be careful not to over-tighten

those screws. They are brass and will snap off. They need to be snug, just

enough so water doesn't leak while the engine in running.

You may struggle a bit this first time. Next time, use a puller. Great

investment!

Do I need to use both the o ring and the gasket?  Or can I just use one or the other?  I'm having a hard time figuring out how to keep the o ring in place while the gasket is in between the cover and the impeller.  

[tvano]

1 hour ago, yakboat said:

Do I need to use both the o ring and the gasket?  Or can I just use one or the other?  I'm having a hard time figuring out how to keep the o ring in place while the gasket is in between the cover and the impeller.  

just the gasket

also, don't over-tighten.  those brass bolts are torqued to inch-lbs NOT ft-lbs

Edited June 6, 2021 by tvano

[srab]

Yep, just the gasket.

[SouthsideBoarder]

2 hours ago, tvano said:

just the gasket

also, don't over-tighten.  those brass bolts are torqued to inch-lbs NOT ft-lbs

Doing my first change this weekend. 

Is it still recommended to use anti seize on the inner splines. 
Also, so you know the inch-lbs torq specs or is it listed somewhere?

[wdr]

I don’t think the anti seize is needed and I have never seen it used by Malibu on anything. I use it for the simple fact that it may make it easier to get the impeller out if I have to replace it on the water. Wouldn’t sweat the torque specs on it. Running them down evenly and reasonably tight and you shouldn’t have a problem. Found out last week that the Sherwood pumps use lock washers on those screws which kind of take the worry and guess work out of it.

[wdr]

On my 2010 with the Johnson pump I put the screws in the plate, give a shot of spray adhesive to the face and dropped on the gasket after the glue set up. It saved me from fumbling with the gasket which kept me from dropping a screw on the reinstall.